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1971 viv Fri Sep 04, 2020 4:01 pm

Hi so i am working on my fuel system for my fuel injected 1971 squareback and my fuel pump does not turn on with the car. I was working on it before and got it to work and then i took out the gas tank to clean it. When i put it back in, the fuel pump would not turn on. So i went and tested it and it does work, which means that either the relay is broken, of a fuse is shorted, or somewhere there is a cut wire or something which seems very unlikely. My question is, how often do relays break and how could i test it to see if it does work?
Thanks

Bobnotch Sat Sep 05, 2020 10:49 am

1971 viv wrote: Hi so i am working on my fuel system for my fuel injected 1971 squareback and my fuel pump does not turn on with the car. I was working on it before and got it to work and then i took out the gas tank to clean it. When i put it back in, the fuel pump would not turn on. So i went and tested it and it does work, which means that either the relay is broken, of a fuse is shorted, or somewhere there is a cut wire or something which seems very unlikely. My question is, how often do relays break and how could i test it to see if it does work?
Thanks

Relays don't break very often. I'm betting more on a wire getting knocked off/loose on the relay, or from the fuse box. Or a loose/bad ground wire connection.

1971 viv Sun Sep 06, 2020 5:25 pm

Yep, you were right, a wire was knocked out of place. On a side note, does anyone know where i can get front and rear bumpers for a 71 squareback? I am in the Boise, Idaho area.

1971 viv Mon Sep 07, 2020 4:45 pm

All right, I need some advice. My engine is backfiring through the intake and it afterfires too. My spark plugs are giving spark and my fuel injectors are working. Would the backfiring be because if the oxygen sensor? That is my only idea. What else could it be? I can send a video of it trying to start if anyone needs it. The exhaust will staple but I am not getting any cylinders that are firing. Any ideas/tips/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

sjbartnik Mon Sep 07, 2020 5:16 pm

There is no oxygen sensor so that ainít it.

If it wonít start and is backfiring through intake and exhaust then the most likely scenario is that the plug wires are in the wrong order around the cap.

Mike Fisher Mon Sep 07, 2020 5:54 pm

1971 viv wrote: Yep, you were right, a wire was knocked out of place. On a side note, does anyone know where i can get front and rear bumpers for a 71 squareback? I am in the Boise, Idaho area.

Do you have the bumper brackets?
You can buy new stainless steel early & late model bumpers from Vietnam. Early are about $800 shipped for a pair.
email: [email protected]

1971 viv Tue Sep 08, 2020 2:45 pm

I adjusted my spark plug wires but now it is backfiring through the exhaust and still not starting. What now?

sjbartnik Tue Sep 08, 2020 3:24 pm

Adjust them right this time :D

nogoodwithusernames Tue Sep 08, 2020 3:37 pm

sjbartnik wrote: Adjust them right this time :D

Ha! Maybe adjust timing too?

sjbartnik Tue Sep 08, 2020 3:57 pm

OK in seriousness this is basic shit but people fuck it up all the time, so just take your time and make sure you get it right.

Understand that the engine rotates clockwise.

That means that the rotor in the distributor rotates clockwise.

The firing order is 1-4-3-2 CLOCKWISE around the distributor cap.

The cylinder numbers are stamped on the tin but just in case, they are arranged like this:

FRONT OF CAR
3__________1
4__________2
BACK OF CAR

The distributor has a notch cut into the rim that is supposed to identify the position for the #1 spark plug wire. You CANNOT assume that this is correct. The notch is only relevant if you are sure that the distributor drive gear has been installed correctly. So don't go by the notch.

Turn your engine over by hand to get it into the firing position for #1 cylinder, using the timing marks on the pulley as viewed through the hole in the outer fan housing.

To verify the engine is set to fire #1 and not #3, pull the valve covers. When #1 is set to fire, both its valves will be closed. When #1 is set to fire and both valves are closed, #3 will have one of its valves open.

Now, once you are sure you have #1 at TDC and ready to fire, observe what position on the distributor cap that the rotor is pointing to. That's where you put the #1 plug wire, regardless of where the notch in the distributor rim is.

Then you string the other wires CLOCKWISE around the cap, 1-4-3-2.

Then you set the timing, you can static time it to 7.5 degrees BTDC which will be enough to get it running.

1971 viv Tue Sep 08, 2020 7:11 pm

You guys are awesome and so helpful! I finally got her running after sitting for 8 years. and thanks for the tip about the bumpers. I will probably have more questions as I keep working on her. Thanks again

1971 viv Sun Sep 13, 2020 2:09 pm

Ok, another problem. When i shift up from 2nd to 3rd the steering wheel will start to wobble like crazy and so i have to shift back to 2nd. I dont think it is a speed thing. I wasn't sure if it was the steering but i replaced the steering damper anyway and that didn't do it. I am leaning to have my tranny rebuilt but does anyone else have any ideas before i do that?

sjbartnik Sun Sep 13, 2020 2:36 pm

Transmission doesn't have shit to do with the steering wheel.

You should be looking at the front end.

Check for a bent wheel or a wheel out of balance.

Get the front wheels off the ground and inspect the condition of the ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends. Find out where the slop is and fix it.

W1K1 Mon Sep 14, 2020 11:28 am

don't forget the upper front torsion needs to be adjusted regularly, I can feel when mine needs tightening, when going over the train tracks on my way to work

Bobnotch Mon Sep 14, 2020 12:12 pm

W1K1 wrote: don't forget the upper front torsion needs to be adjusted regularly, I can feel when mine needs tightening, when going over the train tracks on my way to work

Yup, and if they haven't been done recently, it's probably due.

1971 viv Mon Sep 28, 2020 4:47 pm

Okay thanks for the advice. But i ran into another problem. After cleaning the injectors and it was running great. Suddenly, it started to backfire quite violently, and now it will run unevenly, backfire, and then die if i let the throttle off.

Bobnotch Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:20 pm

Stop and go back thru everything you've done. They just don't go from running great to like crap without help.

Squareback619 Mon Sep 28, 2020 9:02 pm

Hi this is my 1st post. Just bought my 1st VW and have a couple of questions. Thanks in advance for the help and replies. 1) I am sure there could be numerous reasons but help me rule out the obvious - what would cause the exhaust fumes to get in the car. The smell is overwhelming and it needs to be fixed! 2) transmission slip in 4th gear. Slaps it out into nutraul. I put it back into gear and then itís good. Doesnít happen a lot and at random times. Other then that I believe the car is in pretty good shape ( as far as I know and not knowing anything) and I love it!
1600cc
Dual carb
True California car
Previous owner 3 year restoration

Bobnotch Tue Sep 29, 2020 7:36 am

Squareback619 wrote: Hi this is my 1st post. Just bought my 1st VW and have a couple of questions. Thanks in advance for the help and replies. 1) I am sure there could be numerous reasons but help me rule out the obvious - what would cause the exhaust fumes to get in the car. The smell is overwhelming and it needs to be fixed! 2) transmission slip in 4th gear. Slaps it out into nutraul. I put it back into gear and then itís good. Doesnít happen a lot and at random times. Other then that I believe the car is in pretty good shape ( as far as I know and not knowing anything) and I love it!
1600cc
Dual carb
True California car
Previous owner 3 year restoration


You should start your own thread, that way all of your questions will be directed to your own car. That said, the number one reason for exhaust in the car can be traced to seals or the exhaust itself.
On a Square there's the main gate seal, the engine hatch seal, and a rubber seal just above the oil filler cap that runs the width of the car (it seats against the deck lid). If ANY of those seals are missing, you'll get fumes into the car.
On the exhaust, it really depends on what you have, but you want the outlet to be in 1 of the 2 rear corners. This is so the exhaust air flow while driving mixes into the air flow around the car (takes away the fumes). If you have one of those double outlet in the middle of the car mufflers (a Monza style), there's not a lot you can do about it other than change it out for something better (they're the absolute worst muffler you can run on a type 3).
I hope this helps.

1971 viv Thu Oct 01, 2020 4:35 pm

Im pretty sure that my starter just gave out on me. Does anyone have a good recommendation for one that they used? I crossed the terminals and it is shot so time to replace.



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