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  View original topic: SOLVED! Early 1969 T3 Square, which MAP do I need? B or C code?
squanchy Wed Oct 21, 2020 8:42 pm

B code is the answer.

According to my VIN 369097141 my square is early '69. But I can't find any info on which MAP I need to put in. I have two and both are fried, the one in the car doesn't even have a code letter on it (not original) and the one in the box of parts I got is a "D" code, which I'm pretty sure is from an early 70s. The engine itself is a 69, and most likely original to the car. So does anyone know which one I need?

I think the "C" is for late '69, but I want to confirm before I buy another paper weight!

311 906 051 B 0 280 100 001 or
311 906 051 C 0 280 100 007?

Thank you!

Dfasty Thu Oct 22, 2020 4:15 pm

Yes B is correct. The 68 and 69 systems are close enough to be compatible. You should look at the ecm to find other compatible components.

KTPhil Thu Oct 22, 2020 4:46 pm

What fried the two units? Were they in this car when they got fried?

squanchy Thu Oct 22, 2020 5:15 pm

KTPhil wrote: Were they in this car when they got fried?

No, one was an extra that I got in a box of junk at a VW show, and the one that was in the car when I bought it was unplugged. I've been working on it for 4 years and I'm finally to the engine tuning. It idles great, even drives okay, but massive power loss. I had already replaced all the vacuum hoses so I started testing units. I replaced the vacuum modulator on the transmission because it was leaking and the MAP sensor won't hold a vacuum and barely measures ohms at the two inner connectors. Fingers crossed this is the problem!

raygreenwood Thu Oct 22, 2020 7:07 pm

squanchy wrote: KTPhil wrote: Were they in this car when they got fried?

No, one was an extra that I got in a box of junk at a VW show, and the one that was in the car when I bought it was unplugged. I've been working on it for 4 years and I'm finally to the engine tuning. It idles great, even drives okay, but massive power loss. I had already replaced all the vacuum hoses so I started testing units. I replaced the vacuum modulator on the transmission because it was leaking and the MAP sensor won't hold a vacuum and barely measures ohms at the two inner connectors. Fingers crossed this is the problem!


What do you mean by "fried"....fried in what way? no vacuum? Or no connection at the inner and outer circuit on the four pin plug?

Ray

Mike Fisher Fri Oct 23, 2020 11:24 am

'massive power loss' is from timing or fuel, not your ECU.

raygreenwood Fri Oct 23, 2020 7:46 pm

Ah....sorry.....I jsut re-read your last post.....so the MPS in the car had no vacuum.....and odd ohms readings.

By the way.....you can buy a new copper diaphragm kit if its a diaphragm type. If its an A or B without the full load diaphragm.....then its just a gasket. Tbat csn be fixed as well. ....and in about 90% of MPS with resistance issues....they will never be LOW. They will be high.

So if your readings were low .....its a connection problem or a voltmeter problem. If they are high.....you can usually re-flow the solder inside and it fixes that. Dont do that....unless you have to open it up to replace tbe diaphragm or o-ring.

All I am getting at.....is that unless your MPS is corroded on the aneroid chamber or coils.....it can be repaired and you can re-adjust it......for far less than you could ever acquire a refurbed one....much less a new one. So dont throw your old ones away.
Ray



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