TheSamba.com :: View topic - Bob's 1959 Single Cab Pickup

Tue Jun 29, 2021 9:05 am

southbus wrote:

I have reviewed every page of this entertaining publication and I really congratulate you on the pragmatism and drive to improve that beautiful 1959 SC.
I would like to ask for your help as I think you learned a lot in the process. I am thinking of improving the brake system on my 1966 Westy SO42. I want to put a dual circuit MC but keep the drum brakes on all 4 wheels but I have some doubts:
Does a dual circuit MC give me better stopping power?
Or is it only differentiated by the security of having two independent circuits?
What master cylinder did you use and what is the respective reservoir? You have the link?
I have thought about buying an MC that corresponds only to the 1967 buses in Cip1:

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-211-611-011-Q

But I have also seen that they use MC from buses between 71 and 79 and even from Rabbit ... Do they perform better than MC for 1967 from Cip1?

What function does the adapter play in some MCs?
Well, I apologize for making this interruption in your interesting restoration post.

Cheers fron Chile, Southamerica
Cesar

I'm no expert, but I think putting the 1967 MC will allow you to have brakes that are as good as a 1967 year bus. Definitely, the main reason to do this is to have dual circuit brakes. My guess is that the stopping power is the same, i.e., the amount of force you have to put into the pedal. I put the VW Bus 71-79 MC in mine because I was adding disc brakes, and I wanted the MC to match. This was recommended in several places, including at the cip1 site itself.

I believe the adapter serves two purposes. It keeps you from having to modify the brake pedal plunger, and it also moves the cylinder back slightly so that it can still be accessed through the access port in the floor of the bus.

Here's the parts list relating to the MC.

Master cylinder:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-211-611-021-AA

Reservoir:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-211-611-301-E

Grommets to attach reservoir to MC:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-211-611-301-E

T-fitting:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-803-611-755

Brake lines:
The first one I got was too short, so I wound up using a left over rear brake line instead.
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-611-735-F
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-211-611-781-C

Two brake light switches:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-945-515-HGR

EMPI brake MC adapter kit:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-22-2934

Interuptions are ENCOURAGED! Thanks for your comments!

Tue Jun 29, 2021 9:07 pm

Bob, you are the best!
Now I have a big dilemma, it has to do with quality and with the possibility of finding repair kits for both DCMC:

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D211%2D611%2D011%2DQ&CartID=2

V/s

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D211%2D611%2D021%2DAA

The reproduction of DCMC only for the year 1967 seems of low quality thanthe last bays ones, it does not seem very popular in this forum either.
I see many who prefer to pay for adapter kit in addition to the cost of the MC for last bays, even those who want to keep all 4 original dums.
My reflections are based on the extensive posts of conversion to DC but these began a decade ago and where they always "talked" about the very expensive DCMC for buses in 1967 ... perhaps in those years this reproduction of CIP1 did not exist.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D211%2D611%2D011%2DQ&CartID=2

I would also like to know the opinion of someone who has used this reproduction for the year 1967 of CIP1.

I'm sorry for my clumsy english.

Regards

Cesar

Wed Jun 30, 2021 6:08 pm

Wolfsburg West sells the German '67 only for $299 if.

Thu Jul 01, 2021 10:22 am

BarryL wrote: Wolfsburg West sells the German '67 only for $299 if.

Ronnie has them too. Don't know if it's german but it is an ATE part.

http://www.bustoration.com/Master-Cylinder-dual-circuit-Type-2-1967_p_467.html

Thu Jul 01, 2021 11:22 am

Looks like cip1.com has one as well:

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D211%2D611%2D011%2DQ

Mon Jul 19, 2021 2:05 pm

bobrk wrote: So I decided to move the "T", which put it in a place that my old connecting pipe wouldn't reach. I had an extra rear hard line in the garage, so I made a sculpture. I blame heatstroke from working under the truck in 99° weather! 😂

I will have to bleed everything again, lost an entire MC of fluid working on this. I had an idea of sticking some front bleeders in the MC holes, but by the time I got back to the cylinder, it was empty. I also had reservations about putting those in holes they didn't belong in...

Oy. Been working on the truck sporadically, but I had a big repair to make on another car of mine (header and cat replacement on an '04 MINI Cooper S) and that took up some time and brain power.

Anyway, I tried to get the old brakeline into the front "T" to stop leaking, but it was very stubborn. This tells me there is probably something wrong with the flare, and so I decided to just get new hard brake lines for the front. I don't think this is too unreasonable, considering I'm doing both a disc brake conversion and a dual circuit conversion, so I should just make as much new as possible. Also, I can continue to hone my brake line bending skills.

I also bought a new boot for the plunger, the last new one just fell apart. I need to also fine tune the plunger play, I think it's just a little too much gap right now. But that means taking some things apart to get to it.

I'll let you know how that goes.

Sun Aug 15, 2021 3:23 pm

Installed a new line for the left front brake to fix the leak in the T. I think it's working. Got a pedal after bleeding it. Put another boot on the pedal shaft after the other one (brand new) cracked and fell apart.

Sun Aug 22, 2021 10:59 am

Worked on a bunch of small jobs yesterday. The seat back bracket had a bunch of adjustment positions welded crudely on to it, so I crudely cut them off. First time with a grinder...

Lowered the car to the ground to torque the rear axle nuts after being on jack stands for two years...

Replaced rubber on bullet turn signals...

Replaced inner and outer seals on the headlights...

Love all the original parts on this truck.

Tue Aug 24, 2021 10:27 am

So I'm starting to look at the engine, since many of the other tasks I have to do on the truck have nothing to do with actually driving it around.

I'm thinking about getting rid of the old school points ignition and I'm wondering what people are using for electronic ignitions? My motor is an "H"...

...with a 30 PICT 1 Solex...

Thanks for any info you might be able to provide...

Tue Aug 24, 2021 10:49 am

Good work I always like knocking out the little punch lists that linger to long.

Tue Aug 24, 2021 10:51 am

German Krew wrote: Good work I always like knocking out the little punch lists that linger to long.

Heh, it's still long...

Tue Aug 24, 2021 10:53 am

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I feel your pain my splitwindow is still under construction since 2012. Slow and steady I heard wins the race? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Fri Aug 27, 2021 11:37 am

So, any favorite electronic ignition setups?

bobrk wrote: So I'm starting to look at the engine, since many of the other tasks I have to do on the truck have nothing to do with actually driving it around.

I'm thinking about getting rid of the old school points ignition and I'm wondering what people are using for electronic ignitions? My motor is an "H"...

...with a 30 PICT 1 Solex...

Thanks for any info you might be able to provide...

Fri Sep 17, 2021 10:31 pm

Slow going on my truck, but I did make this essential part replacement. I didn't realize it'd be so easy to replace.

I can put the broomstick away now.

Check out the welding job from a previous owner.

Sat Sep 18, 2021 6:54 pm

Another silly job today. I converted the armature of the wiper motor from 6V to 12V. The hardest part was getting the motor out of the dash.

More windings?

Love the old school motor parts

In it goes

Checked it with my battery charger and it worked fine!

Mon Feb 14, 2022 9:49 pm

I let this tire go flat and it lost its bead. Booo, time to get this pile running.

Tue Feb 15, 2022 6:46 pm

Danger: I've seen guys let unlit propane shoot into the tire then hit the striker to pop those back on. Danger!

Tue Feb 15, 2022 6:58 pm

BarryL wrote: Danger: I've seen guys let unlit propane shoot into the tire then hit the striker to pop those back on. Danger!

LOL, I've seen those videos! I may just do the ratchet strap trick...

Wed Feb 16, 2022 8:35 am

bobrk wrote: BarryL wrote: Danger: I've seen guys let unlit propane shoot into the tire then hit the striker to pop those back on. Danger!

LOL, I've seen those videos! I may just do the ratchet strap trick...

Thank you, thesamba:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7107312&highlight=seat+tire+bead#7107312

Wed Feb 23, 2022 10:17 pm

Yay, found the keys!

Bought a bunch of engine stuff—fuel lines, plugs, wires, rebuild kit for the carb. Just need a fan belt and a battery and I can start working on getting the motor running.