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  View original topic: 1991 Syncro blower motor seized - free with 30 amp briefly??
everyhumanvw Sat Nov 14, 2020 12:04 pm

'91 Syncro with only 80k or so miles - father replaced odometer once so not exactly positive - and fan should have been occasionally spun through years when it mostly sat, but was not.

Wondering if possible to break fan free with short term use of a higher amp fuse. Pops the 20 amp the moment turned on at low fan speed. Or turn to high fan speed and start van? Or lubricate bearings by drilling holes through fan box?

The dash is still beautiful and has no squeaks, rattles, and fit appears so nice. Concerned with my wrencher tearing dash apart to get to blower motor. Know I need 15 clips for new motor install. Any other common items behind dash to replace, if absolutely necessary to replace blower? Thanks much for any tips! :P

MarkWard Sat Nov 14, 2020 12:28 pm

I don't see using a larger fuse for testing a problem, but a automobile circuit breaker would be a better choice.

Search Mullendore Port here.

everyhumanvw Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:11 pm

MarkWard wrote: I don't see using a larger fuse for testing a problem, but a automobile circuit breaker would be a better choice.

Search Mullendore Port here.

Are you referring to the metal looking circuit breaker type fuse that breaks contact when to much heat or temperature and reistance? Bought a few of those when was trying to figure out power windows.

vwolder Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:24 pm

I have actually just released mine in the following way: with a telescope camera and a flexible hose mounted on the camera I could lubricate the motor going through the grill. Then I connected the battery breifly directly to the socket behind the speed selector at the “stage 3” wire. It worked fine!

MarkWard Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:30 pm

Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CBS-30-Standard-Au...NrPXRydWU=

Gnarlodious Sat Nov 14, 2020 2:05 pm

I had to increase the fuse to 25 amps because the stock size chronically burned (I think it was 20). I measured the motor, in excellent condition and freshly installed, at 17 amps at startup. It goes down slightly when running. But the same fuse (in my ’83) powers the wiper and washer so on a rainy drive those systems might suddenly stop working. A 25 amp fuse fixed it.

I was able to oil the motor bearing using a cheap borescope from eBay with an oiling tube tied to the camera probe, it use an iPhone app for display so it was only about $20.

But if your blower cage is full of rodent nest then it will have to be taken apart.

Wildthings Sat Nov 14, 2020 2:45 pm

As suggested read up on the Mullendore Port. I wouldn't try to force the motor until you have a little lube on it. Drilling two holes a few inches apart will allow you to work and see what you are doing through one hole while you shine a light through the other.

IdahoDoug Sat Nov 14, 2020 3:17 pm

You've gotten good advice - search on the key words above. Do not use WD40 or some random crap though. You will get one chance to have quality penetrating oil get in there through the microscopic path. Fill it with crap oil and nothing's getting through.

Once the penetrating oil is in there, let it sit a couple days. Don't push things and burn something up, guaranteeing the dash is coming out. Let the chemicals work.

[email protected] Sat Nov 14, 2020 4:01 pm

you can also drill a hole in the drivers side dash vent duct and drip oil directly on the motor with a 3/16 brake line.

if you want a pic, let me know and i will load one up

everyhumanvw Sat Nov 14, 2020 4:33 pm

IdahoDoug wrote: You've gotten good advice - search on the key words above. Do not use WD40 or some random crap though. You will get one chance to have quality penetrating oil get in there through the microscopic path. Fill it with crap oil and nothing's getting through. .

Suggestion on best type or brands of lube? Penetrating oil first and then after breaking free some other type additionally? Have a collection of varying types. Also, read besides bearings that the shaft can cause seizing.

everyhumanvw Sat Nov 14, 2020 4:35 pm

[email protected] wrote: you can also drill a hole in the drivers side dash vent duct and drip oil directly on the motor with a 3/16 brake line.

Thanks much. Yes, a pic or two will clarify and add options.

everyhumanvw Sat Nov 14, 2020 4:39 pm

vwolder wrote: I have actually just released mine in the following way: with a telescope camera and a flexible hose mounted on the camera I could lubricate the motor going through the grill. Then I connected the battery breifly directly to the socket behind the speed selector at the “stage 3” wire. It worked fine!

Do you mean one of the grilles on front of van? And you did not have to drill holes to get inside to lube bearings and shaft? And to confirm, you then briefly connected some power directly to highest speed setting on fan switch?

Ahwahnee Sat Nov 14, 2020 7:21 pm

Mine bound up and would blow the fuse when first switched using low/1.

I found I could get it running by abruptly switching to high speed and once running could slow down to 1 if I wished.

I added the Mullendore Port and lubed the motor - problem solved (for the past 10 years or so).

The Mullendore Port

MarkWard Sun Nov 15, 2020 6:15 am

Not sure they still make it, but 3 in 1 oil was good for that sort of thing. That was the go to oil before aerosols were invented.

DanHoug Sun Nov 15, 2020 7:21 am

if you can make a hook out of stiff wire, reaching thru the Mullendore Port you can see and pull on the squirrel cage fins to break the rust bond free initially. this is only if it is lightly stuck.

on several heater fans i've worked on, the corrosion is just too much, especially if Satan's Little Helpers have made a nest in there and their urine fumes have rusted everything.

DuncanS Sun Nov 15, 2020 7:49 am

Before I heard of the Mullendore Port I had a spare entire front air handling unit and took it apart and analyzed where the blower motor bearing was from the top. Drilled a hole down through the dash top tin guiding it through the ash tray. Through the hole I was able to pry the fan rotor loose and get it to spin. Put in a 3/8ths oil burner tubing to deliver oil directly to the bearing. Worked---but so much corrosion, the bearing was shot, or perhaps the motor shaft and it would wobble in the bearing and howl bloody murder. So works, but.......only sortta. Sometimes the only solution is a replacement.

The Germans are really good engineers. Why would they allow a bearing to be exposed to road grime. All they needed was a 1˘ piece of plastic tubing accessible through the ash tray. Thanks a lot, guys!!--scarcasm.

Captain Pike Sun Nov 15, 2020 8:04 am

For when the time comes,
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=280285&highlight=



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