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Sun Jan 24, 2021 5:33 pm

In November I had my engine rebuilt in my '71 super beetle and the thing drove great! After picking it up from my mechanic after my first oil change and adjustment at 500 miles, there began a hesitation that I noticed immediately.

I drove it as my daily driver and eventually the fuel pump and valve gasket went bad so I had them replaced.

The problem continued until it stopped idling correctly but the hesitation was gone. I solved this second problem by knocking on the float and getting it unstuck. The hesitation began again and now I'm trying to address that.

I have a 34 pict 3 EMPI Carb.

So far I have adjusted the automatic choke but i am unsure if that actually did anything.

I also tried cleaning out the idle jet but it looked a little different than i expected so i'm not sure how successful i was at that either.

In first gear there is jerking on acceleration. In second and third, I press down on the gas and it does nothing. Eventually it starts to go like i have the pedal to the metal. Almost lagging of sorts.

The problem goes away after driving it for 5 or so miles. Thats what led me to believe it was the automatic choke but at last that didn't work

Im looking for help from other mechanics or people who know more than me, pretty much everyone on here. Thanks!

Sun Jan 24, 2021 6:23 pm

First thing? Accelerator pump not adjusted to give a nice squirt—more noticeable on a cold engine.

And/or your advance on your distributor is not advancing.

Timing may be off, too. So, check this when checking—with a timing light—if your advance is working properly.

Tim

Mon Jan 25, 2021 5:52 am

If you're running an 09 distributor with that 34pic 3, I would consider changing the carb to an older model or the distributor to a SVDA . The 09 and 34 pic 3 don't do well together. Consult also your Bentley Manual. Tim's advice should certainly help.

Mon Jan 25, 2021 12:57 pm

Adjust the air/fuel screw might clear up the problem. My car was running duel empi 34 on 2 turns out then is started running poorly hard to start and bogging when I gassed it. I adjusted the screw to almost 3 turns and it runs fine now. You would be suprised how shitty a car runs when the carbs are not on the sweet spot. just a quarter turn can make a world of difference. These older cars are quite fickle, everytime you do a tune up dial the carbs in it is pretty standard procedure to cover all the bases. Rewarding when your done though.

Mon Jan 25, 2021 1:30 pm

Tell us more about the engine/trans. Do you have auto stick or manual, what distributor, does it have OE air filter or after market,....ect..... maybe pictures?

Mon Jan 25, 2021 6:55 pm

Im going to try adjusting the air/fuel screw in the morning thanks.

Tim, could you go into a little more details about those tips, you lost me.

As for the distributor, its indeed a 009. Its been with the car and this set up for over 4 year so im not ready to switch it up.

Heres my engine bay:

Mon Jan 25, 2021 8:02 pm

You can overcome the hesitation by revving the engine a little bit on the low end.

Mon Jan 25, 2021 8:50 pm

You appear to have a 34 pict 3 carburetor, and the 009 is not a good match for it, without modifications to the carb. I don’t know what those mods are, because I’d rather use the proper distributor with that 34 pict 3 carburetor. An SVDA is a good choice.

The accelerator pump adjustment is on the right side of your carb. There is a small bolt that holds a sort of ear with a variegated edge. Loosen the bolt, move that jagged ear of the linkage a bit, up or down, then tighten the bolt. Check the squirt to see if it’s a nice whoosh when you pull down on the throttle arm.

Tim

Mon Jan 25, 2021 9:07 pm

Not familiar off hand with your carb like I said I run duel carbs on mine. It has been donky's years since I had my hands on your style, but if the fuel screw is exposed like on mine I bump them around when working in the bay. Like I said they need to be dialed in perfect or your car will run like shit. That is atleast the case with duelies. over time they may walk around engine vibration. If you are not having luck right off hand fear not you may be over or under adjusting too much. Small increments quarter turns at the most. You will see it starting to run better further in or out from the way you have it. I think you are too rich on fuel not enough ''AIR" if you are bogging out on the one. Wont idle sounds lean but that could also be a sympton of not having the idle set propper. sounds like that would be easier to adjust for a novice DIY'er. You really need a special tool they sell at HF to make that adjustment but playing with the air fuel mix can be threatening if you are getting nowhere and give up too soon. Might just as well go get the tool and make sure the idle is set to 900 RPM, if I remember correctly for the 1600 1.5 litre.

Tue Jan 26, 2021 1:53 am

You had your engine rebuilt starting in November. Winter started in December. You've had the 009 distributor for 4 years so you don't want to change that.
I would recommend checking your preheat tubes to see if your carb is getting any heat, but as you have no warm air hose from the exhaust collector to your air cleaner it may be pointless.

We can offer you advice based on what has worked in air-cooled Volkswagens since 1949 in this country, but you may reject our collective wisdom as you see fit. It's OK

Tue Jan 26, 2021 10:34 am

From the pictures i see that the fuel filter is empty. You should have fuel in it and it should not drain off, seeing as it is straight from the tank. this tells me that the fuel pump may not be pumping enough, or to much. Check the fuel pump and the accelerator pump on the carb. Make sure the timing is right, 7.5* BTDC and the advance is working.

Tue Jan 26, 2021 11:25 am

As suggested by others, check that the accelerator pump discharge as the throttle is opened is instant. There should be no delay in the fuel coming out of the brass discharge nozzle. If you pull on the throttle arm and there is any play or movement before fuel comes out of the nozzle... this WILL result in hesitation from idle as well as while driving at speed. When the throttle opens suddenly the sudden flow of air must be balanced with a squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump.

Make sure the nozzle is pointing towards the edge of the throttle plate that opens so the fuel is shooting into the intake.

Make sure the fuel coming out of the nozzle is a stream or a strong mist/fan. A dribble of fuel suggests the nozzle is clogged. Remove it by pulling straight up/out and clean with a fine wire and carb cleaner.

Lastly, check for a lean running condition. With the engine idling warm and the choke OFF, cover 50% of the carb opening with your flat hand (fingers flat and together). Slowly move your hand to cover more and more of the carb opening. Eventually you will start to restrict the air flowing down the carb... similar to closing off the air-fuel flow thru the carb (screwing in the bypass screw). Normally, less air flow should cause the idle to drop. But if the idle actually rises as you cover the carb opening it means the mixture is too lean. By covering the carb you reduce the air in the mixture and cause the mixture to approach normal. If this results in smoother running (higher rpms) you have something causing the mixture to run lean (too much air, not enough fuel). A common cause for a lean mixture is a vacuum leak allowing air into the intake without being mixed with fuel inside the carb. Look for a leak around the carb/intake/heads.

Tue Jan 26, 2021 11:38 am

And for God's sake, put some hose clamps on those fuel hoses. The top hose looks like it is ready to come off of the pump.

Tue Jan 26, 2021 11:38 am

Either close up the hole in the rear tin, or get the stock air cleaner that will work better than that piece of junk air cleaner you have now. The tin hole is for the carb pre-heat tube to the stock air cleaner, leaving that hole open is allowing hot air that has cooled the engine to get back into the engine compartment. That does not help to cool the engine.

Tue Jan 26, 2021 2:45 pm

Increasing the accelerator pump action is gonna make things worse. The 009 distributor is already behind because it's waiting for rpm to increase! Vacuum increases instantly when the butterfly cracks open, hence the cure for the stumble by using SVDA!

Tue Jan 26, 2021 4:53 pm

I agree, get some clamps on the fuel lines, there coming off. The air cleaner is junk. Are you running the flaps in the shroud or are they missing. The flap will help in your area (cold winters/hot summers), makes the engine last longer. None of this helps your current problem, but just 2 more cents.

Tue Jan 26, 2021 7:49 pm

[quote="CarterWohl"]In November I had my engine rebuilt in my '71 super beetle and the thing drove great! After picking it up from my mechanic after my first oil change and adjustment at 500 miles, there began a hesitation that I noticed immediately.

Ran good when you picked it up so no need to change your carb or distributor ( although your combo doesn’t always produce good results) in your case it was working. “After first oil change and adjustment “ what was adjusted? If it ran good and was “adjusted” then it had a hesitation.... Possibly valve lash? Maybe a/f mixture? Timing? Ask your mechanic what he adjusted.

Wed Jan 27, 2021 5:08 am

[quote="db69"] CarterWohl wrote: In November I had my engine rebuilt in my '71 super beetle and the thing drove great! After picking it up from my mechanic after my first oil change and adjustment at 500 miles, there began a hesitation that I noticed immediately.

Ran good when you picked it up so no need to change your carb or distributor ( although your combo doesn’t always produce good results) in your case it was working. “After first oil change and adjustment “ what was adjusted? If it ran good and was “adjusted” then it had a hesitation.... Possibly valve lash? Maybe a/f mixture? Timing? Ask your mechanic what he adjusted.

..........and then the weather changed.

Wed Jan 27, 2021 5:36 am

I still don't understand after all these years why people run those 009 on a car! It's got to be the worst power robbing mod to do on a stock or nearly stock type 1. Don't mean to sound blunt..but do yourself a favor and ditch that thing. The low end response and torque you will feel with a proper vacuum advance distributor feels like a hundred more CCs. Anyone whose ever had a ruptured advance can on a stock bug knows what I mean

Wed Jan 27, 2021 8:17 pm

unitedracing wrote: I still don't understand after all these years why people run those 009 on a car! It's got to be the worst power robbing mod to do on a stock or nearly stock type 1. Don't mean to sound blunt..but do yourself a favor and ditch that thing. The low end response and torque you will feel with a proper vacuum advance distributor feels like a hundred more CCs. Anyone whose ever had a ruptured advance can on a stock bug knows what I mean
I run one because it is easier on a duel carb setup from what I remember there is a problem with using the vacuum ports on the carbs and you need to tap a hole or something. I could be remembering wrong.