TheSamba.com Forums
 
  View original topic: Nova Scotian 54 standard restoration Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... , 26, 27, 28  Next
ddutch Sun Apr 13, 2025 3:03 pm

Sublime A-pillar surgery, the disassembled patient should be happy.

Burlyhammer Thu Apr 17, 2025 2:18 am

Awesome work Stan!!!

sgellis Thu Apr 24, 2025 6:38 pm

Still have a few details to finish on the A pillar but started a new piece anyway.

Kick panel had quite a bit of rust on the left side and needed that side of the lower rib replaced. 3D printed some bead roller dies to get the perfect shape.

I put a lip on each side of my replacement part and stretched the lips to get the correct curve. After rolling in the rib I needed to add a little more curve. Part came out better than expected on first try.

Now I will print dies to press the termination.












sgellis Thu May 01, 2025 2:16 pm

Kick panel finished.

I printed a press die to get the correct rib termination. It matches the right side lower termination but the upper one was not as defined.

Still have a few small imperfections to cleanup. The zinc brings them out.






sgellis Thu May 01, 2025 2:39 pm

Started the dash bar.

Cut out most of the rust and media blasted.

I found two screw holes in the bottom. One close to the dash pod ( see photo) and one mirrored on other side. I didn't think they were original but they are mirrored accurately. Is there something that uses these holes?





myklsmyth Tue May 06, 2025 11:00 am

I have a pretty messed up support that has 3 holes, all which appear to be symmetrical, however they are in a slightly different placement than yours so I don't think that will help and I can't confirm whether it is original or not either. I would like it if someone could confirm as well.






I put tape behind the holes to highlight them in this photo

sgellis Wed May 07, 2025 5:34 am

myklsmyth wrote: I have a pretty messed up support that has 3 holes, all which appear to be symmetrical, however they are in a slightly different placement than yours so I don't think that will help and I can't confirm whether it is original or not either. I would like it if someone could confirm as well.

Those holes appear to be for the interior panel screws. The edge should be bent down.


myklsmyth Wed May 07, 2025 2:39 pm

Thank you sir

sgellis Sun May 11, 2025 2:30 pm

Dash beam roughed out.

Biggest problem was the center patch. With a bunch of hand forming, stretching and wheeling I got the front curve. After I added the lower lip. If I had made it in two parts it would have been much easier. It took me almost 3 hours to make and fit that patch.

Was a bit of work to keep it perfectly straight when welding all the patches in. Very happy with how it is coming along.

One unknown is how far up the windshield it extends on the a pillars. With the rough welds and rust I can't see exactly where the panel ends. One side looks like it extends up about 10mm but the other looks closer to 25mm. My 64 looks to be about 20mm but I changed the dash it it so not original.






sgellis Sun May 11, 2025 6:34 pm

I found a photo of a nos beam and they look closer to 25mm. I will scale the photo tomorrow and see if I can get more accurate number.


sgellis Fri May 16, 2025 5:16 pm

Finished up the dash beam today.

Took some time to get it smooth but happy with how it can out. I left the end windshield bits a little large so I can trim them when fitting.

Copied the panel holes form the rusty bit. They were quit random.





Käfer2 Sat May 17, 2025 10:13 am

Looks good! I'm following your thread with admiration.

sgellis Sat May 17, 2025 1:36 pm

Started the windshield frame

After stripping it I decided to just replace the upper and lower profiles. There was a lot of deep pitting and holes. Will be easier to replace than patch anyway.

When removing the center interior filler I discovered it was leaded to the dash beam. Maybe done for strength or to fix a bad fit.

Before disassembling the nose I made a friction fit window plug. That will allow me to clamp sections in place before welding and ensure accurate shape.










brass gears Tue May 20, 2025 7:31 pm

Stan, just wanted to chime in and say your Ship of Theseus is coming along nicely. Mad metal work skills. All this takes so much time never mind producing and editing videos and then there is the CAD files!
Enjoying the videos. Nice presentation followed by the time lapse of the procedures. Saturday afternoon you tube staple. :thumbsup:
-Rob

LAGrunthaner Wed May 21, 2025 3:20 am

Wow, Stan was lead used on the finish work on busses regularly or just for repairs? I've had friends replicate lead use on restorations as an old school method.

sgellis Wed May 21, 2025 4:50 am

LAGrunthaner wrote: Wow, Stan was lead used on the finish work on busses regularly or just for repairs? I've had friends replicate lead use on restorations as an old school method.

Lead was used where the B pillars meet the front door headers. It was very ruff so believe it was used to seal the seam and not as much for looks. Once the paint was removed I could see the texture where a rag was used to wipe the lead smooth while hot.

I assume the center post lead was just to seal the seam but could also be for strength. The lead only flowed down between the panels on one side so if for strength they didn't do a very good job. There are a few more seams I suspect lead is used in but haven't investigated them yet.

Before paint I will re-lead the B pillar and any other seams that were originality leaded. I had some old lead bars around but believe they went to recycling years ago.

I don't remember any mention of lead on these. At the time it was a very common practice to lead seams as a form of seam sealer as well as for creating a smooth finish.

sgellis Wed May 21, 2025 7:03 pm

Windshield frame repair parts made. Not going to be much original frame left. Lot of deep rust on the back side.




scarabee Thu May 22, 2025 6:30 am

Stan, you ARE the man! Cheesy, I know...

sgellis Sat May 24, 2025 1:18 pm

One side welded. Having the plug made it relatively easy. It would be a pain to do this without it.

Removed the mirror spacer. I thought it was one piece of steel but was actually two layers.




ddutch Sat May 24, 2025 4:26 pm

sgellis wrote: Windshield frame repair parts made. Not going to be much original frame left. Lot of deep rust on the back side.

nice to see you're able to re-use most of the vertical parts of the original windshield frame, so there is factory metal in this section of the bus too. The lower horizontal parts of the frame are rusted out on most busses, so repairs or replacement are required in many cases.



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group