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Wed Jul 28, 2021 7:23 pm

Hi, I'm having a problem getting this GoWesty trailer wiring harness to work. I tapped into the wires in the little black box in the front left side of the engine compartment then ran the 4 flat pin converter to a 7 pin converter and connected that to the trailer, but I get nothing. Has anyone successfully used one of these from them? Do I tap into the white connector on the van downstream or upstream, does it matter?

thanks

Thu Jul 29, 2021 3:50 am

Most of us have never seen GoWesty's convertor.

Pictures might help.

I used this Hopkins one, I also made my connections in the same black box, it works just fine.

Looking at photos, GoWesty and my Hopkins look like the same product. $40 + ridiculous shipping for GoWesty, $20 and free shipping for Hopkins.
https://www.gowesty.com/product/hitch-accessories/3220/trailer-wiring-kit?v=

Dumb question but there are several 7 pin connectors in there, you used the proper one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Q81XK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave

Thu Jul 29, 2021 7:00 am

Likewise, I used a Curt trailer light converter and brought power from the same box...

But I added a junction box for the taillight wires to ensure they're accessible for things like back-up cams, etc....

When you say you get nothing, are you diagnosing nothing at the four pin connector, before the seven pin converter?

This is a handy diagnostic tool...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019LYDLQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thu Jul 29, 2021 7:30 am

moremorevan wrote:
snip
I tapped into the wires in the little black box in the front left side of the engine compartment then ran the 4 flat pin converter to a 7 pin
SNIP

jimf909 wrote: Likewise, I used a Curt trailer light converter and brought power from the same box...
SNIP

Great timing for this topic :!:
Today I'm building my hitch and was mulltemplating the wiring as I drove to to work.

I would be very appreciative for any pictures of the black box referenced.

Thanks all,
Owen

Thu Jul 29, 2021 7:47 am

This black box has a hot post coming directly from the starter/alternator/battery post on the starter. I used it to get 12v to power the trailer light harness. I brought signals from the taillights directly from the taillights. This is a bostig conversion so wiring looks a bit different.

Thu Jul 29, 2021 8:01 am

jimf909 wrote: This black box has a hot post coming directly from the starter/alternator/battery post on the starter. I used it to get 12v to power the trailer light harness. I brought signals from the taillights directly from the taillights. This is a bostig conversion so wiring looks a bit different.

Thank you.
That helps a ton.
Owen

Thu Jul 29, 2021 8:32 am

You need to get a "KURT" unit which is powered. These work with diodes and drop the output.

The powered ones are far superior and give you nice bright trailer lights. You are going about it correctly by wiring it all into the breakout box. The KURT powered unit just fits into the box. I always like to cover the trailer wiring with heat shrink when doing the install. Depending on what type of plug you're using they make nice mounting brackets so its not dragging on the ground.

Stacy

Thu Jul 29, 2021 9:38 am

16CVs wrote: You need to get a "KURT" unit which is powered. These work with diodes and drop the output.

Stacy

Thanks for the info but I've been searching the Curt site and they don't seem to offer anything for the van. Are you using some universal set up made by Curt.

https://www.curtmfg.com/all-products/1987/volkswagen/vanagon/7/Class+1+Trailer+Hitches

Thu Jul 29, 2021 9:47 am

I made my own trailer light converter with three relays. The normal ones sold in places like HF can't cope with the voltage drops present in the Vanagon.

This connects directly with the wires just adjacent to the LH rear light cluster:

Thu Jul 29, 2021 1:38 pm

I see the advantages of kits.

I also see that the connectors in the black box for the tail lights are available, you can easily find out what goes to where and splice in a generic trailer lead. That way, you hack the wires you are adding, not cutting into the wires that are existing.

(These are typically used for Subaru conversion, but the connector is the same as the tail lights plugs)

https://www.vancafe.com/803971979-p/803971979.htm

https://www.vancafe.com/803971980-p/803971980.htm

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58050-Vehicle-Trailer-...mp;sr=8-47

Thu Jul 29, 2021 7:32 pm

No Curt does not make a plug and play unit. I have made a few of them myself, but for the time it takes you can just wire in the box and get your power 12+ which is in the box. It makes a big difference in the brightness of the tail lights and is not that hard to do.

I generally am not a fan of wire taps, but if in an enclosed box they are better than other options.

Stacy

Thu Jul 29, 2021 11:07 pm

16CVs wrote: No Curt does not make a plug and play unit. I have made a few of them myself, but for the time it takes you can just wire in the box and get your power 12+ which is in the box. It makes a big difference in the brightness of the tail lights and is not that hard to do.

I generally am not a fan of wire taps, but if in an enclosed box they are better than other options.

Stacy

A few posts above shows a Curt install using this unit in the photo below...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010QCH7VG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this junction box...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QDQRX7P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The taillight signal was soldered to wires at the taillight and routed to the junction box for future options such as tow bars lights, backup cams, etc.

fxr's relays are also a good option.

jimf909 wrote: Likewise, I used a Curt trailer light converter and brought power from the same box...

But I added a junction box for the taillight wires to ensure they're accessible for things like back-up cams, etc....

When you say you get nothing, are you diagnosing nothing at the four pin connector, before the seven pin converter?

This is a handy diagnostic tool...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019LYDLQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fri Jul 30, 2021 7:15 am

Yesterday I was able to sleuth out the following Curt models that are alleged to work with the Vanagon

Curt: C59236 (confirmed by @jimf909 and their Amazon link above)
C56175 (non powered)

and a Hopkins model HM48925

This was clipped from the Curt site indicating the models that fit the C59236. If you ask your parts store for a kit to fit these vehicles it may be easier than explaining that Yes, Volkswagen made a van "back then" and yes the motor is in the rear ...........

I built a basic hitch yesterday and was pretty happy with the result.

Wed Aug 04, 2021 10:10 am

So just an update in the event someone later on is searching for trailer wire hook up info.

I used the Curt Curt: C59236 kit and it took me roughly an hour.

The Vanagon is a three wire system (as defined by the Curt installation document included with the kit) and all the wires you need are accessed easily via the connection box shown earlier in this thread.
The tail light wires are all in one connector, which I unplugged for ease of access.

Vanagon wires referenced from the Bently manual.
Left signal: Black/White
Right signal: Black/Green
Tail light: Grey/Black
Brake light: Black/Red

Power for the curt is picked picked up from the hot stud inside the terminal box and I grounded it to the engine.

Owen

Wed Aug 04, 2021 10:11 am

So just an update in the event someone later on is searching for trailer wire hook up info.

I used the Curt Curt: C59236 kit and it took me roughly an hour.

The Vanagon is a three wire system (as defined by the Curt installation document included with the kit) and all the wires you need are accessed easily via the connection box shown earlier in this thread.

jimf909 wrote:

The tail light wires are all in one connector, which I unplugged for ease of access.

Vanagon wires referenced from the Bently manual.
Left signal: Black/White
Right signal: Black/Green
Tail light: Grey/Black
Brake light: Black/Red

Power for the curt is picked picked up from the hot stud inside the terminal box and I grounded it to the engine.

Owen

Mon Aug 08, 2022 8:54 pm

Just wanted to say this helped me solve my marker lights coming on when the brakes were pressed problem. I had some super janky wiring spliced right into the brake lights going to a trailer plug. I removed it all and it solved it !

-Joe

Tue Aug 09, 2022 2:19 pm

I bought the same one on Amazon for $27 and free shipping. Haven't hooked it up yet.

djkeev wrote: Most of us have never seen GoWesty's convertor.

Pictures might help.

I used this Hopkins one, I also made my connections in the same black box, it works just fine.

Looking at photos, GoWesty and my Hopkins look like the same product. $40 + ridiculous shipping for GoWesty, $20 and free shipping for Hopkins.
https://www.gowesty.com/product/hitch-accessories/3220/trailer-wiring-kit?v=

Dumb question but there are several 7 pin connectors in there, you used the proper one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Q81XK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave

Thu May 22, 2025 5:02 pm

Is it too late to join this conversation? I have installed a non powered converter unit, spliced it into the wires by the tail lights. Now when I press the brakes the brake lights come on, but I also get 9 volts going to my indicator lights. I have been struggling with this for 2 days and am at a total loss. Not sure what to do from here nor do I understand how the vans indicator lights come on when the brakes are pressed. I have already bought 2 non powered ones (in case the first one was faulty), I don’t want to throw any more money at this unless it will solve the issue.

Fri May 23, 2025 6:39 am

Srcook wrote: Is it too late to join this conversation? I have installed a non powered converter unit, spliced it into the wires by the tail lights. Now when I press the brakes the brake lights come on, but I also get 9 volts going to my indicator lights. I have been struggling with this for 2 days and am at a total loss. Not sure what to do from here nor do I understand how the vans indicator lights come on when the brakes are pressed. I have already bought 2 non powered ones (in case the first one was faulty), I don’t want to throw any more money at this unless it will solve the issue.

Stock light bulbs or LED bulbs?

Fri May 23, 2025 8:50 am

Brake lights are stock, indicator LED.
LED brake lights screwed up the cruise control.