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Sun Aug 22, 2021 2:53 am

The top mounting point for my vent window is almost completely stripped out.
This is a pretty coarse screw that holds it in place.

As opposed to replacing the whole frame for this one point, I was considering maybe just hitting it with a mig welder to add material and beef up the sides and have something to bite on?

Curious what others may have done to repair this?

Sun Aug 22, 2021 4:39 am

Confused. Are the threads stripped or are you saying the material of the small tab is stripped away where the edge distance of the bolt hole has worn away?

Sun Aug 22, 2021 5:59 am

That falls under "screws that I've never touched".

That screw simply holds the glass to the pivot mechanism.

If it is stripped for some reason, repairs are called for.
I wouldn't weld with the glass in place. Welding splatter melts glass and leaves you with a rough pitted window.

Dave

Sun Aug 22, 2021 7:17 am

If your referring to the bolt Allen being stripped and the objective is removal. Try grinding in a slot and using a flat screwdriver.

Sun Aug 22, 2021 9:19 am

If you grind it, be sure to mask it as you would with a welder. I was careful as could be with my van while grinding, and a few random grinder sparks STILL got through the welding blanket onto my rear hatch glass and left me a tiny bit of pitting.

Sun Aug 22, 2021 1:16 pm

The upper pivot is not a screw but rather a rivet part #111837648.

Mon Aug 23, 2021 1:44 am

Hey all, let me clarify.
The hardware that actually holds the vent glass in is fine.
The point that it screws in to, the backside, the actual part that pivots, is stripped so the screw will not torque down enough to resist the torque of closing the vent window properly.
Right now it is just holding the glass in place, but it's barely closing so I haven't completely closed it.

I'm about to take it out and I can take some photos.

Basically, the "receiver" side of the screw which is basically pot metal, is stripped.

I tried using JB weld to build it up but that didn't work.

I will follow up

Mon Aug 23, 2021 1:45 am

Steve M. wrote: Confused. Are the threads stripped or are you saying the material of the small tab is stripped away where the edge distance of the bolt hole has worn away?

Yeah that is exactly what I am saying.
The tab internals are stripped so the screw won't completely torque down

Mon Aug 23, 2021 3:51 am

Theoretically I could absolutely just use a larger piece of hardware, but that just feels a bit jenky to me.
It would have to have a large cap and would also likely not be Torx

https://youtu.be/4M6bGndEN5g

Mon Aug 23, 2021 3:52 am

dgbeatty wrote: The upper pivot is not a screw but rather a rivet part #111837648.

What I removed and matches the other side is a wide headed screw with almost a wood screw thread, and a Torx head.

Mon Aug 23, 2021 7:15 am

LBC28730
So a previous owner/hack replaced the rivet with what was at hand. Screws and such are easily removed making thefts far easier and quieter, hence the use of steel rivets since forever. When you do reassemble with your choice of pivots don't omitt the shim between the the two components.

Mon Aug 23, 2021 7:58 am

dgbeatty wrote: LBC28730
So a previous owner/hack replaced the rivet with what was at hand. Screws and such are easily removed making thefts far easier and quieter, hence the use of steel rivets since forever. When you do reassemble with your choice of pivots don't omitt the shim between the the two components.

Interesting.
So what I am looking at is #15 which is from the inside out, but looks much different than this diagram.

#1A is the part that is "stripped"

Mon Aug 23, 2021 8:00 am

Here's a video I took to maybe clarify things:

https://youtu.be/4M6bGndEN5g

Mon Aug 23, 2021 8:11 am

you're going to need to replace part 1A or get another frame.

no real way to save it unless you can go 1 size up with a tap, and even at that you'd need a couple taps including a "blind hole" or "bottoming tap"

they are some sort of pot metal and kind of 1 time use because of that. i don't think i have any spares....but i will look. for a while i had a glut of vent window parts kicking around when i was trying to build a good set. a lot of times these get corroded to the point of unusable

Mon Aug 23, 2021 8:44 am

skills@eurocarsplus wrote: you're going to need to replace part 1A or get another frame.

no real way to save it unless you can go 1 size up with a tap, and even at that you'd need a couple taps including a "blind hole" or "bottoming tap"

Or, from looking at mine, looks like it could be drilled trough and replaced with a bolt and nut. hey, its broken beyond saving anyway so no worries about ruining it further.

I would not worry about security since it easier to break than unbolt.

But, if one was worried bout security, Use a security bolt on the outside and a nylock on the inside. if they could even loosen the security bolt, once they got it loose, the nylock would prevent total removal....many other easier ways to get into a vanagon.

Mon Aug 23, 2021 8:46 am

^^^^ or that if you're not fussy. depends on your OCD level i suppose :lol:

Mon Aug 23, 2021 1:07 pm

LBC28730
If your vent window upper pivot assembly does not look like the illustration then it was previously cobbled together. The flat top rivet is proof of that. A diecast/pot metal component must always be assembled using an appropriate lube, not loctite or yesterday's left over hot sauce. There are established reasons for this, for others affected with severe OCD email me if in doubt.
The "easiest" solution is to find a used vent window assemble. Next easiest is to find a good used pivot assemble, rivet and shim. Quickest is to install a tiny helicoil and use JB Weld to mimic the original shape where it attaches to the glass. The hillbilly method is to drill it through and use a screw and nut (ugly). Want to see the hillbilly power window fix, think hand held mixer.
I routinely installed helicoils in sliding window latch plates, much better than new.

Mon Aug 23, 2021 5:13 pm

Thanks for the input everyone.
Yeah 1A is the issue and yes, it's crap pot metal.

I figured it would be worth a try but was not able to mig material to it.

In order to get the wire to melt fast and not feed out too much, it had to be hot enough that it basically melted the cone.

Shouldn't be a great issue though, I think I have a buddy down the road that I can get a used frame assembly from.

If for some crazy reason he doesn't have one, I can get a brand new one for about $100, shipped.

I greatly appreciate everyone's insight.

Mon Aug 23, 2021 5:35 pm

I've owned several Vanagons over the years and all I've ever seen on all of them was a T25 (Torx) screw in both the upper and lower fastening points of the vent windows on both sides.

Ed

Mon Aug 23, 2021 5:40 pm

When I look in oemepc.com, one of the online parts catalogs, it lists the following for part 15 in the previous posts:

oval hexagon socket head bolt M5X7-E
hex socket oval head collared M5X6MK

Ed