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Wed Oct 27, 2021 9:20 pm

Hello All,
I am in the middle of (base coat / clear coat) painting my fenders, I am using a new gun and I ended up going too thick on my first fender (I know rookie mistake), I dialed it in and the other 3 fenders turned out great.

Because I saw the runs and sags after the first few coats of the base, I didn't clear this one fender. I figured I would sand out the runs and do two more base coats then clear.

I have now sanded out the runs and the whole fender to 600 Grit and I am ready to do my base clear again.

My question is do I use wax and grease remover before I do my next base coats? I know you don't use it between base and clear but I don't know the process between base coats.

Thanks for your help!
Rob

Wed Oct 27, 2021 9:53 pm

I would not. Sanding it off/down mostly should be fine. The base coat could dissolve in the prep solvent.

I might use a tack cloth and/or blow it off with clean dry air. Something gentle to get the dust off.

I very rarely use any prep solvent between coats. It's simply not neccesary and can cause issues.

Don't worry about it too much, just take your time and it will turn out well.

Thu Oct 28, 2021 3:45 am

I would. as long as you use the wipe on wipe off method. You have got to remove fingerprints and the like. Problems come from wiping it on and not wiping it off.

Thu Oct 28, 2021 6:54 am

I would not between coats but before you spray your first coat I would use a little alcohol.

I too am a rookie and have found that alcohol cleans well and dries much quicker than paint prep solvent.

Thu Oct 28, 2021 3:56 pm

Wax and grease remover is based (usually) on acetone or other strong solvents. Read nail polish remover.

Alcohol (methylated spirits/ethanol)is a much safer solvent to remove greasy fingerprints. You can dilute it with water if you like.

Just do a test on an unexposed surface using both solvents. Acetone COULD remove some of the paint, but it is unlikely alcohol would.

Thu Oct 28, 2021 4:20 pm

When I've wiped base with paint prep it has dissolved the base.

I have used a tack rag, after blowing with compressed air, but I do not know if there are any drawbacks to that. It worked for me.

Thu Oct 28, 2021 4:28 pm

I just finished laying the 2K primer on my project. I wiped car down with a microfiber cloth and some acetone in a spray bottle b4 the primer. A spot that I had made a previous repair and sprayed with rustoleum primer from a can started to gum up and dissolve when rubbed with the acetone. No other areas were affected.
I don’t expect the acetone will have that effect on a 2 part primer so I will be using it again followed by a tack rag b4 I apply the basecoat.

Fri Oct 29, 2021 2:30 am

Acetone has no place in a paint shop. If you wish to remove "greasy fingerprints" use soap and water. Remember, your basecoat may be dry, but it's not "Cured". Any solvent is likely to have a negative effect on any uncured paint.

Fri Oct 29, 2021 5:51 am

Igpoe wrote: Acetone has no place in a paint shop. If you wish to remove "greasy fingerprints" use soap and water. Remember, your basecoat may be dry, but it's not "Cured". Any solvent is likely to have a negative effect on any uncured paint.

Will acetone have an adverse affect on 2K primer? I will be hand sanding(wet) today in preparation for laying the basecoat early next week. What is the best solution for final wipe down of wet sanding residue b4 the tack cloth?

Fri Oct 29, 2021 6:04 am

Alcohol....like several of us have suggested.... :roll:

Fri Oct 29, 2021 6:24 am

DerrickfromNC1 wrote: Igpoe wrote: Acetone has no place in a paint shop. If you wish to remove "greasy fingerprints" use soap and water. Remember, your basecoat may be dry, but it's not "Cured". Any solvent is likely to have a negative effect on any uncured paint.

Will acetone have an adverse affect on 2K primer? I will be hand sanding(wet) today in preparation for laying the basecoat early next week. What is the best solution for final wipe down of wet sanding residue b4 the tack cloth?

Alcohol should be fine or the cheapest enamel thinner you can find for wiping down before paint. You should wash with detergent soap and warm water rinse to remove sanding residue now and blow dry. That way you dont need to spend money on alcohol or thinner if your old lady has some Dawn! If the weather is cold, warm your tack rag a bit so it will be tackier

Fri Oct 29, 2021 7:20 am

viiking wrote: Wax and grease remover is based (usually) on acetone or other strong solvents. Read nail polish remover.

Alcohol (methylated spirits/ethanol)is a much safer solvent to remove greasy fingerprints. You can dilute it with water if you like.

Just do a test on an unexposed surface using both solvents. Acetone COULD remove some of the paint, but it is unlikely alcohol would.

I use this. Acetone would be a disaster.

Rubbing alcohol does work well and I use that when I run out of the below.

http://kleanstripauto.com/resources/product-resources/1700.5_Klean_Strip_Prep_All_5-23-18_.pdf

Fri Oct 29, 2021 8:25 am

I’ve used prepsol on polyprimer and epoxy with no issues. I don’t like the idea of using soap and water on primer especially poly since it’s porous and you never know if you have some areas where it’s thin or bare metal exposed.
I use a tack rag on base.

Fri Oct 29, 2021 10:02 am

Going thru my shop supplies and just realized I have an unopened 32oz bottle of Rustoleum wax & tar remover. It specifically states:

For use before & after sanding.

Viiking stated earlier in this thread that wax & grease removers are usually based on acetone. Any experience with the rustoleum product & does it contain acetone?

Fri Oct 29, 2021 2:00 pm

You didn't specify the exact name but from the Rustoleum.

AUTORF QT MISC WAX & TAR REMOVER is water based, contains diethanolamine and has no flammability, so no solvents.

But there are other brands. What's the exact name?

Fri Oct 29, 2021 2:02 pm

Braukuche wrote: I’ve used prepsol on polyprimer and epoxy with no issues. I don’t like the idea of using soap and water on primer especially poly since it’s porous and you never know if you have some areas where it’s thin or bare metal exposed.
I use a tack rag on base.

I must admit that I'm unfamiliar with todays products for the most part, but why would someone put a porous undercoat on bare metal? When I ran a production/rehab shop I used a zinc chromate on steel, epoxy or high-build urethane on top of that and Dupont's Velvaseal under Imron for the finishing. But I was always working from bare metal and spending someone elses' money!
And sure, Prepsol is an almost perfect product for wipe-down at any point in your prep.

Fri Oct 29, 2021 2:02 pm

kman wrote: viiking wrote: Wax and grease remover is based (usually) on acetone or other strong solvents. Read nail polish remover.

Alcohol (methylated spirits/ethanol)is a much safer solvent to remove greasy fingerprints. You can dilute it with water if you like.

Just do a test on an unexposed surface using both solvents. Acetone COULD remove some of the paint, but it is unlikely alcohol would.

I use this. Acetone would be a disaster.

Rubbing alcohol does work well and I use that when I run out of the below.

http://kleanstripauto.com/resources/product-resources/1700.5_Klean_Strip_Prep_All_5-23-18_.pdf

The Kleanstrip is basically mineral spirits and probably a white spirit base. Slow evaporation rate compared to alcohol and acetone.

Fri Oct 29, 2021 2:10 pm

Braukuche wrote: I’ve used prepsol on polyprimer and epoxy with no issues. I don’t like the idea of using soap and water on primer especially poly since it’s porous and you never know if you have some areas where it’s thin or bare metal exposed.
I use a tack rag on base.

There are many types of "Prepsol". Some are water based and some are solvent based.
Best to look at the MSDS to see what the ingredients are and if there are solvents in them.

Fri Oct 29, 2021 2:25 pm

viiking wrote: You didn't specify the exact name but from the Rustoleum.

AUTORF QT MISC WAX & TAR REMOVER is water based, contains diethanolamine and has no flammability, so no solvents.

But there are other brands. What's the exact name?

This is it
https://www.autozone.com/sandpaper-and-body-repair...lsrc=aw.ds

Fri Oct 29, 2021 2:27 pm

Igpoe wrote: Braukuche wrote: I’ve used prepsol on polyprimer and epoxy with no issues. I don’t like the idea of using soap and water on primer especially poly since it’s porous and you never know if you have some areas where it’s thin or bare metal exposed.
I use a tack rag on base.

I must admit that I'm unfamiliar with todays products for the most part, but why would someone put a porous undercoat on bare metal? When I ran a production/rehab shop I used a zinc chromate on steel, epoxy or high-build urethane on top of that and Dupont's Velvaseal under Imron for the finishing. But I was always working from bare metal and spending someone elses' money!
And sure, Prepsol is an almost perfect product for wipe-down at any point in your prep.

There are DTM polyprimers and I always shoot a seal coat before color. I dry sand too, don’t use any water. I also prefer to do my filler work over metal vs epoxy.