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  View original topic: Oil Change Gaskets
[email protected] Sun Jun 01, 2003 7:30 pm

I picked up a couple Oil Change Gaskets and noticed the package say's it is for 1300/500/600. I am guessing this means 1300/1500/1600cc engines. Do you think they will also work on a 1200cc engine or do the 1200cc engines take something different? tj

joey-bugnaked.com Sun Jun 01, 2003 7:31 pm

they should all be the same except 36 horse is smaller

BarryL Wed May 28, 2025 6:10 pm

Have any of you used the Rosswulf gaskets without using their mounting kit?



Their gaskets are at least twice as thick as the paper German factory gaskets and it doesn’t leave much stud to grab my acorn nuts with copper sealing washers.

I also worry that the acorn nuts will back off in use as their gasket is softer. I see their kit is bulletproof but I don’t want to pull my studs out especially the pickup tube one.

https://rosswulf.com/shop/ols/products/vw-drain-plate-kit

tasb Wed May 28, 2025 6:36 pm

You don’t have to use the acorn nuts. In theory if you use real copper washers you should be able to use regular 10mm od nuts. Some say the oil will leak past them but I don’t find that to be the case.

chrisflstf Thu May 29, 2025 6:51 am

His gaskets may be designed to use with his drainplate, not separately with the origiinal drainplate

Glenn Thu May 29, 2025 6:57 am

Silicone gaskets

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113198031SI



thom Thu May 29, 2025 9:04 am

Glenn wrote: Silicone gaskets

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113198031SI




I tried those once - when I tightened everything up, they distorted and "escaped" between the studs.

chrisflstf Thu May 29, 2025 9:09 am

Quote:
I tried those once - when I tightened everything up, they distorted and "escaped" between the studs.

They are very flexible. I found you need to hold the drain plate up against the case as you snug up the nuts, to keep them in place. So they dont pucker up some

70bus Thu May 29, 2025 10:40 am

After a shop rebuilt motor and used stock paper gaskets, my truck had a constant weep from a few studs and bottom of case was always wet. Put on silicone gasket set - no weeps and bottom of case has stayed clean. If they distort you are ratcheting the nuts too tight; I have found the stock ft lbs may not be necessary to achieve the best seal. YMMV.


I have enough paper gaskets in my garage to change oil every 3 months for the rest of my life... but the silicone has so far been the better choice. I keep the paper ones in case I change my mind!

EDIT - looked up the Rosswulf ones; made of Viton. The silicone ones are squishy enough to accomodate unflat surfaces; wonder if Viton is too stiff for that?

crofty Thu May 29, 2025 1:19 pm

thom wrote: Glenn wrote: Silicone gaskets

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113198031SI




I tried those once - when I tightened everything up, they distorted and "escaped" between the studs.

I tried the silicon head gaskets. once.

I wont use that stuff again.

Who.Me? Thu May 29, 2025 2:46 pm

crofty wrote:

I tried the silicon head gaskets. once.

I wont use that stuff again.

Not sure if that's an intentional gag, but yeah, silicon won't do you any good in that application. Silicone however... 8)

My engine case was pitted around the seal surface. I applied a bunch of black gasket sealer around the surface, then fitted silicone gaskets tightened the sump plate up and let the sealant go off. The sealant doesn't stick to the silicone, so it created a new seal surface that conformed to the case and the gasket.
No leaks from the sump plate since I started using them. Just makes up for it everywhere else.

House Thu May 29, 2025 9:02 pm

chrisflstf wrote: His gaskets may be designed to use with his drainplate, not separately with the origiinal drainplate

They are supposed to work in stock applications and their description says “Replaces VW Part: 113198031”.

BulliBill Fri May 30, 2025 8:48 am

I finally gave up on guessing whether I was tightening the six nuts tight enough or too loose or tight. I bought a nice click-type "inch/pound" torque wrench and use that now to correctly tighten the six nuts just enough. I believe that the manuals say to tighten those oil drain plate nuts to 72 inch/pounds = 6 foot/pounds and no more. In addition, I usually try to tighten all of them to about 48 to 60 inch/pounds evenly first, gently tap the edges of the oil drain plate all the way around to to help settle the plate into those gaskets, and then snug the nuts up to the final setting of 72 inch/pounds. Works well for me!

I have tried and I'm happy with the WW silicone re-usable gasket kits, but I also sometimes use the german paper gasket sets too using the above tightening procedures.

Bill Bowman



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