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Tue Jan 23, 2024 9:58 pm

The screw knocker is a killer tool for removing stubborn hinge bolts.

Tue Jan 23, 2024 10:37 pm

You killed it today! Lots of ghetto repairs lurking under there!

Wed Jan 24, 2024 12:21 am

Thank You Mr Mike. I’m feeling real good about it.

I did a bunch of small tasks I didn’t even show as well 🤩✌️

My plan tomorrow is to get as much done as I can before heading out. I initially was thinking about going to A.S in the morning, however I’m on a good roll with repairs so I will go after lunch at some point. The more I get done now the better the results will be once they are done doing their magic. 😎👊

Wed Jan 24, 2024 7:17 am

That's a good plan!

Wed Jan 24, 2024 11:56 am

Great job already done. It's very good to watch. The engine is impressive.

Wed Jan 24, 2024 7:03 pm

Nothing to it but to do it 😜✌️

Wed Jan 24, 2024 9:15 pm

Wed Jan 24, 2024 9:22 pm

It’s hard to tell the extent of this creased on the rear fender but it took the force of the Jack to get it back in place. When the tension was applied with the Jack and then hit the crease with a hammer did the trick.

Thu Jan 25, 2024 7:43 am

I love all these pictures. Thank you for posting and showing the methods and tools you use.

Jason, I'm curious - was there a corresponding crease/crumple in the inner wheel well that needs to be straightened out? I'm assuming the car got hit in the rear and the hit caused the fender to bow 'out'. Since the fender is welded to the inner/outer wheel well combo, that would also add some tension to this area that needs to be relieved, correct?

Mike

Thu Jan 25, 2024 8:54 am

Good morning Mike.

Great question. I appreciate that.

So you are absolutely correct about the inner fender, however this was not from a rear collision. ✌️

The Jack in this process is really putting in some productive work. As you mentioned the inner and out wells are connected. The Jack is pushing them both back out simultaneously. With the tension on the Jack cranked considerably high when I strike the crease the inertia is causing the inner crease to give way to the tension on the Jack. So much..: that as it improves the Jack becomes looser and looser showing me that the tension is submitting to the process. I had to increase the Jack pressure as I went and hammering the outer skin until everything was how I wanted it and the Jack could be removed and the panels would not return to the damaged state because I was successful in removing almost all the tension.

One thing I would like to add is that the Jack indeed is reversing the action of the accident but often times you will need to push it past it’s original home to release enough tension so it slowly travels back to its original home and is now relaxed and kicking back with a beer on the recliner 😜👊

A great nugget I can give you is ….

⚒“A Relaxed Panel Is A Happy Panel” ⚒

Thu Jan 25, 2024 11:00 am

tri356 wrote: I love all these pictures. Thank you for posting and showing the methods and tools you use.

Jason, I'm curious - was there a corresponding crease/crumple in the inner wheel well that needs to be straightened out? I'm assuming the car got hit in the rear and the hit caused the fender to bow 'out'. Since the fender is welded to the inner/outer wheel well combo, that would also add some tension to this area that needs to be relieved, correct?

Mike

Lots of little bumps and bruises got addressed!

Jason, what is the giant C clamp thing and what does it do?

Did you dig that junk out of the roof?

Mike, (for the record) I haven't put a dent or ding in it since I have owned it for the last 10 years. I have only drilled holes for the mirror, license plate bracket and breather box. I have deducted that a PO lost the left rear wheel at speed, the car came down on the wheel and it creased the outer fender panel. The transmission that came with the car had a bent axle tube and the drum would not sit flush against the backing plate and the lower shock mount and bolt had a nice grind mark on them.! All of the holes that you see are from a PO using an old school "screw type" dent puller / slide hammer to try "pull" all the dents out. The piece sticking out above the wheel arch, which I thought was a fender support is actually the firewall. It got pushed back in the incident. The right side looks like it side swipped something sticking out and got a nice racing stripe dent from the Karmann badge to the tail light. The nose looks like someone pounded it flat to make it look like a "frenched" show car. The trunk and inner fenders all look great (to me). It doesnt look like it was ever rear ended. A PO cut all the sheet metal out of the engine compartment for a later engine and or to make engine removal easier. Everything underneath the rear looks good and straingt (to me).

Thu Jan 25, 2024 12:02 pm

Good morning Mr Mike.

So that is a Vintage fender roller. They are very rare and highly desirable.
It is like a English wheel you can hold in your hands. The great thing about its design is the anvils are brass so they are soft and smooth the material more then stretch it. Now they work well for some stretch but the pressure needs to be turned up. Excellent tool for smoothing fenders. 🤩👊

The rust in the roof was caused from foam that is used to defuse engine noise/smell. It’s all gone now. 😎👊

Thu Jan 25, 2024 1:30 pm

VeloMikey wrote: tri356 wrote: I love all these pictures. Thank you for posting and showing the methods and tools you use.

Jason, I'm curious - was there a corresponding crease/crumple in the inner wheel well that needs to be straightened out? I'm assuming the car got hit in the rear and the hit caused the fender to bow 'out'. Since the fender is welded to the inner/outer wheel well combo, that would also add some tension to this area that needs to be relieved, correct?

Mike

Lots of little bumps and bruises got addressed!

Jason, what is the giant C clamp thing and what does it do?

Did you dig that junk out of the roof?

Mike, (for the record) I haven't put a dent or ding in it since I have owned it for the last 10 years. I have only drilled holes for the mirror, license plate bracket and breather box. I have deducted that a PO lost the left rear wheel at speed, the car came down on the wheel and it creased the outer fender panel. The transmission that came with the car had a bent axle tube and the drum would not sit flush against the backing plate and the lower shock mount and bolt had a nice grind mark on them.! All of the holes that you see are from a PO using an old school "screw type" dent puller / slide hammer to try "pull" all the dents out. The piece sticking out above the wheel arch, which I thought was a fender support is actually the firewall. It got pushed back in the incident. The right side looks like it side swipped something sticking out and got a nice racing stripe dent from the Karmann badge to the tail light. The nose looks like someone pounded it flat to make it look like a "frenched" show car. The trunk and inner fenders all look great (to me). It doesnt look like it was ever rear ended. A PO cut all the sheet metal out of the engine compartment for a later engine and or to make engine removal easier. Everything underneath the rear looks good and straingt (to me).

Same thing happened to mine….Prior owner lost a rear wheel, messed up the inner well and ground down part axle tube where it meets the drum. Jason, do you remember that hot mess? :lol:

Thu Jan 25, 2024 2:37 pm

Is this tool a stud welder?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2472312.jpg

Your dad must have been a TV repair guy because you have one heck of a tool box!! Enjoying your work!

Thu Jan 25, 2024 4:24 pm

⬆️ Thanks for that and thanks for following along. ⬆️

YeSir , it is and it has many more functions as well. It also welds pull rods , keys and wiggle wire.

The machine also Shrinks metal. It’s a fantastic thing to have around.

https://www.northerntool.com/products/dent-fix-max...220v-52532

Thu Jan 25, 2024 5:35 pm

Thanks for the info. I have a small stud welder but had never heard of wiggle wire, you made me search til i found a utube video explaining and showing how to use. Today I learned. Much thanks, back to the LL!

Thu Jan 25, 2024 5:52 pm

c21darrel wrote:

Your dad must have been a TV repair guy because you have one heck of a tool box!!

Love the Fast Times / Jeff Spicoli reference!

Thu Jan 25, 2024 9:05 pm

⬆️ Your very welcome my friend ⬆️

I’m always happy to share my experiences with like minded folks.

There is a super cool hecka old , like 70’s YouTube video of this machine being used by its inventors and they are fixing a 356 Porsche. Ever since that video I have wanted one. It took a while before I could afford it but when I could I jumped on it. ⚒☑️👀

Sat Jan 27, 2024 9:12 pm

sparkleplenty wrote: VeloMikey wrote: tri356 wrote: I love all these pictures. Thank you for posting and showing the methods and tools you use.

Jason, I'm curious - was there a corresponding crease/crumple in the inner wheel well that needs to be straightened out? I'm assuming the car got hit in the rear and the hit caused the fender to bow 'out'. Since the fender is welded to the inner/outer wheel well combo, that would also add some tension to this area that needs to be relieved, correct?

Mike

Lots of little bumps and bruises got addressed!

Jason, what is the giant C clamp thing and what does it do?

Did you dig that junk out of the roof?

Mike, (for the record) I haven't put a dent or ding in it since I have owned it for the last 10 years. I have only drilled holes for the mirror, license plate bracket and breather box. I have deducted that a PO lost the left rear wheel at speed, the car came down on the wheel and it creased the outer fender panel. The transmission that came with the car had a bent axle tube and the drum would not sit flush against the backing plate and the lower shock mount and bolt had a nice grind mark on them.! All of the holes that you see are from a PO using an old school "screw type" dent puller / slide hammer to try "pull" all the dents out. The piece sticking out above the wheel arch, which I thought was a fender support is actually the firewall. It got pushed back in the incident. The right side looks like it side swipped something sticking out and got a nice racing stripe dent from the Karmann badge to the tail light. The nose looks like someone pounded it flat to make it look like a "frenched" show car. The trunk and inner fenders all look great (to me). It doesnt look like it was ever rear ended. A PO cut all the sheet metal out of the engine compartment for a later engine and or to make engine removal easier. Everything underneath the rear looks good and straingt (to me).

Same thing happened to mine….Prior owner lost a rear wheel, messed up the inner well and ground down part axle tube where it meets the drum. Jason, do you remember that hot mess? :lol:

GaLL…. Lee ….. Ya know Mr Russ. I don’t remember the axle tube portion but I do remembered replacing the entire inner fender well. That seemed like such a big challenge in those days. I didn’t even own a spot weld , I was joking with my son just the other day and was saying back then the hot ticket for me was a 120v Hobart welder and a dewalt angle grinder , i pretty much did everything with it including grinding down my welds. Awwww… the good old days 😜👊
I can say now that I see things in a way different light.

I’m still so grateful you believing in me way back then 😎👊🤍

Thu Mar 14, 2024 8:49 pm

Jason went and picked up my car from American Stripping Company today.

Enjoy the pics!