dtadpole |
Fri Jul 14, 2023 6:47 am |
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So used a few of these mastercoat silver rust paint cans and I don't end up using all of the can at a time. When I go back to use it again It hard as a rock or seperated or something. Anyone have any tricks to keep this stuff usable for more that one session? I have tried opening and cleaning the rim closing, I bought seperate jars and seperated the quart and seran wrapped the top of the jars and can. No luck. Anyone had luck? Suggestions?
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beetlenut |
Fri Jul 14, 2023 9:19 am |
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I've for sure tossed as much as I've used of the Silver primer. Even so, it's the best product I've used, along with their AG-111 Topcoats, on my car. I went the separate glass jars with wax paper then screwing the lid on. Depending on how long I let it sit, I could remove a hardened layer and use the rest below it. You kind of have to work in reverse, and accumulate enough stuff that needs priming so you can end up using the amount of primer you have. You need to be able to vacuum seal the jar once the top is on. Seems to be the nature of the beast. |
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far rider |
Fri Jul 14, 2023 9:49 am |
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Two things to try. 1) before replacing the top lay a piece of plastic bag over the top then hammer the top back on. Even better don’t work out of the can. Pour out what you can work with then recover the can asap with the plastic in place. Helps to keep air out. 2) if you’re working from a quart get some pint or half pint cans and work from those as needed. This will lessen the amount of time the larger can is open and closed . |
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67ctbug |
Fri Jul 14, 2023 3:25 pm |
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I put a plastic piece under the lid before I hammer it back on. Usually a saran wrap or a piece of a ziplock bag. |
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Saggs |
Sat Jul 15, 2023 12:18 pm |
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Ive used this stuff alot and its the best hands down but I had the stuff go bad seemingly overnight in the heat and humidity. I por mine into a red solo cup and work out of that. Also the seller (chuck) says to pour it into a cleaned out plastic qt bottle for motor oil. This keeps the sealing area small and allows for a tighter seal. It does work but ALWAYS work out of a separate container of some sort. |
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Slow-N-Rusty |
Sat Jul 15, 2023 9:39 pm |
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I haven't tried it with Master Series but I've had luck with other types of paint by placing a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the surface of the paint and pressing the edges against the wet edge of the paint around the inside of the can. It basically separates the paint from the air in the can. It can be a bit messy to pull off the plastic wrap when you need to use the paint but I would rather lose a spoonful of paint than the entire can. |
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beetlenut |
Mon Jul 17, 2023 6:27 am |
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Slow-N-Rusty wrote: I haven't tried it with Master Series but I've had luck with other types of paint by placing a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the surface of the paint and pressing the edges against the wet edge of the paint around the inside of the can. It basically separates the paint from the air in the can. It can be a bit messy to pull off the plastic wrap when you need to use the paint but I would rather lose a spoonful of paint than the entire can.
This makes the most sense to me since you're trying to keep the product from the air (and humidity since it's a moisture cured urethane). Even the bit of air in the sealed jar is going to react with the product. |
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bomberbob |
Wed Jul 19, 2023 8:34 pm |
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I had a can of this stuff that I bought and then did not use it for a long time (unopened). The can started to bulge on the bottom, when I pried the lid off it came off with force. Did not explode, but it came off with a bang.
I am going to try one of those vacuum sealers, I got one for christmas and have used it for sealing stuff. It has a setting for liquids and solids. I will let you know how it works out. I think two things need to happen. We need to evacuate as much humid air out of the can as possible, and we also need to work the can lid so it doesn't get stuck on when the paint around the rim dries. |
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viiking |
Thu Jul 20, 2023 4:01 pm |
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I've had some luck with displacing the air out of the can with MIG gas before resealing. As long as the humidity is out of the can, you should diminish (but not totally eliminate) the hardening reaction.
The longer the original contents are exposed to the atmosphere the more of the paint is reacting (at the liquid-vapour interface). Better to immediately decant the paint after opening the can into smaller jars and only work on one smaller volume jar at a time. |
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vamram |
Fri Jul 21, 2023 12:51 pm |
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I use the method mentioned a couple of places above of using saran wrap between the lid and the can. I also make sure to keep and reuse the clips that hold the lid in place. I like the idea of using a bigger sheet of plastic down to the top of the paint before tapping the lid on. Also I may try the old oil quart w/the next batch I use. |
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Saggs |
Sat Jul 22, 2023 2:07 pm |
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did the saran wrap across the can lid when I seal it and then put two woodworks clams across the top of the can , the wooden clamps. This keeps the lid down tight cause it never seals well after the initial opening. |
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dtadpole |
Mon Jul 24, 2023 7:24 am |
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THanks all for the replies, I almost forgot I posted this and remembered when I picked up the can yesterday. Glad I remembered!
So after reading many of your suggestions I am going to try some mason jar vaccuum sealer lids. Like you all said the air/moisture touching the paint is the issue. I think also the laying the saran wrap on the top of the paint at least with a piece of wax or saran wrap on the rim of the lid is a good idea also.
I went ahead and ordered this set of cheap vaccuum lids from AMZ well see how they go. Ill try to make a video of my findings also. Here is the lids im going to test https://amzn.to/3O8Cv64 These use the regular mason jar lids with the seal so that work I am thinking! well see! |
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vamram |
Mon Jul 24, 2023 7:28 am |
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dtadpole wrote: THanks all for the replies, I almost forgot I posted this and remembered when I picked up the can yesterday. Glad I remembered!
So after reading many of your suggestions I am going to try some mason jar vaccuum sealer lids. Like you all said the air/moisture touching the paint is the issue. I think also the laying the saran wrap on the top of the paint at least with a piece of wax or saran wrap on the rim of the lid is a good idea also.
I went ahead and ordered this set of cheap vaccuum lids from AMZ well see how they go. Ill try to make a video of my findings also. Here is the lids im going to test https://amzn.to/3O8Cv64 These use the regular mason jar lids with the seal so that work I am thinking! well see!
Quick note, I tried the mason jar method a few years back, and ended up unable to remove the lids from the jars when next I went to use MSS, as if it had bonded the glass to the lid. |
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dtadpole |
Mon Jul 24, 2023 7:58 am |
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vamram wrote: dtadpole wrote: THanks all for the replies, I almost forgot I posted this and remembered when I picked up the can yesterday. Glad I remembered!
So after reading many of your suggestions I am going to try some mason jar vaccuum sealer lids. Like you all said the air/moisture touching the paint is the issue. I think also the laying the saran wrap on the top of the paint at least with a piece of wax or saran wrap on the rim of the lid is a good idea also.
I went ahead and ordered this set of cheap vaccuum lids from AMZ well see how they go. Ill try to make a video of my findings also. Here is the lids im going to test https://amzn.to/3O8Cv64 These use the regular mason jar lids with the seal so that work I am thinking! well see!
Quick note, I tried the mason jar method a few years back, and ended up unable to remove the lids from the jars when next I went to use MSS, as if it had bonded the glass to the lid.
Was that after you had got the paint on the rim or was that just pouring it in(no paint on rim) and sealing it. I guess if I just need to store it and use a different jar everytime I guess I can do that. I have a million mason jars from auctions a few years back. Thanks for the reply!! |
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dtadpole |
Mon Jul 24, 2023 8:07 am |
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I also had another question, on this same subject: Have any of you by chance tried to store this for any amount of time already thinned with the thinner they sell? I have a jug of their thinner also, I was thinking this may make it not harden so fast also. |
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vamram |
Mon Jul 24, 2023 8:14 am |
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dtadpole wrote: vamram wrote: dtadpole wrote: THanks all for the replies, I almost forgot I posted this and remembered when I picked up the can yesterday. Glad I remembered!
So after reading many of your suggestions I am going to try some mason jar vaccuum sealer lids. Like you all said the air/moisture touching the paint is the issue. I think also the laying the saran wrap on the top of the paint at least with a piece of wax or saran wrap on the rim of the lid is a good idea also.
I went ahead and ordered this set of cheap vaccuum lids from AMZ well see how they go. Ill try to make a video of my findings also. Here is the lids im going to test https://amzn.to/3O8Cv64 These use the regular mason jar lids with the seal so that work I am thinking! well see!
Quick note, I tried the mason jar method a few years back, and ended up unable to remove the lids from the jars when next I went to use MSS, as if it had bonded the glass to the lid.
Was that after you had got the paint on the rim or was that just pouring it in(no paint on rim) and sealing it. I guess if I just need to store it and use a different jar everytime I guess I can do that. I have a million mason jars from auctions a few years back. Thanks for the reply!!
I don't recall, but I'm guessing some got on the rim of the jar and I didn't wipe it off cleanly. Still, I was surprised that it bonded w/the glass. I suppose this was to be expected, but I'm not a chemist so don't have a good explanation. |
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dtadpole |
Mon Jul 24, 2023 8:55 am |
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I will report back with my findings I am trying to get enough stuff done to warrant opening the can and spraying, Ill report back when I receive the lids and get some stuff done! lol! thanks again all! |
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far rider |
Mon Jul 31, 2023 4:27 pm |
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Another thing to try, after closing the can using Saran Wrap or similar protection
Idea place the can in a plastic zip lock bag. I think that air restriction helps a lot |
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dtadpole |
Tue Aug 01, 2023 10:50 am |
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far rider wrote: Another thing to try, after closing the can using Saran Wrap or similar protection
Idea place the can in a plastic zip lock bag. I think that air restriction helps a lot
Yep good suggestion, another layer of protection. Should hopefully get time to do this in the next week or so. I had a tree fall on the house this weekend so it may delay me a bit! |
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chuckpolzin |
Wed Sep 06, 2023 6:19 am |
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hey guys, i tried to post this in a master series thread not sure if its the same stuff but this is the stuff i got for my window lip repair that i am going to do under the gasket surface where there was some residual pitting after i neutralized the rust with phospho acid.
question, it seems to be a highly rated product for its rust inhibiting properties but if its that great at it why don't more people spray main body panels with this stuff, or even do a rolled on layer and follow it up with say epoxy or the usual primer / filler / base / clear type process afterwards?
is there a good reason to not use it on body panels over say just straight up epoxy primer or some other DTM primer,
thanks for any thoughts on this |
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