TheSamba.com :: View topic - Bluetooth (123 ignition) distributor installation questions

Tue Sep 19, 2023 8:51 am

Wildthings wrote: Is the 123 formating capable of using a Throttle Position Switch to give retard on decel and at idle and then instantly give advance once the throttle is opened a whisker? Seems like that would be prefer over vacuum cans and centrifugal weights.

in practice you can get exactly what you want, but not in the manner described - the tuning is not TPS based.... as james described, it is MAP/vacuum and RPM based with a RPM cut off for when vacuum advance is disabled

it works great and is basically as good as a real modern "EMS" (although you would typically have a giant complicated table of vacuum vs RPM and have to put in every value, on most ECU's ignition tables...
whereas the 123 simplifies a bit by having a fixed RPM table that gets combined with a vacuum table, which is just fine in practice...
in essence they pretend it's working like an old skool distributor).

also of note, CSP offers a special white label version of the 123 distributor that is made with a vintage Bosch distributor replica appearance for the most OG-looking solution.... you can get the base in raw aluminum or black with the cap in either red or black.

https://www.csp-shop.com/shop/system/en/?func=sear...0pacemaker

no spacer needed :)

they are nice inside - not much in there to go wrong, seems like everything is high quality, .. hall sensor/magnets, bearing, IC/RF, MAP, etc.

it also has an 'immobilizer' mode .. e.g. software kill switch .. engine won't run without using the app to unlock again .. and you can put a custom PIN code on it ..

P.S. i personally like my 123 with a resistor-less rotor and a German Porsche 1.5Ω red coil

Sat Dec 16, 2023 2:46 pm

I’ll add that the 123 is so worth the extra dollars spent. What’s a quality rebuilt distributor cost? $250. Been down that road. Also the Pertronix road. As I run Weber 40s the programmable MAP was the biggest game changer. Couldn’t get vacuum to activate on ported manifold with my stock distributor and with the 123 I get to just run it off a very nice signal from manifold vacuum and tell it not to start at idle.

Seems like a no brainer to me and glad others are talking about it.

I also got hit by the spacer problem only I was in Bolivia. Took my measurements to some local machinist and had him cut me a custom one.

Sat Dec 16, 2023 3:06 pm

Fantastic place to decide to install new tech! I prefer messing around in my own garage 😊

If you’re fortunate enough to have a Type 1 with adjustable distributor pinion end play, timing scatter is entirely eliminated and you can run a few extra degrees of advance because you KNOW it’s stopping at 32*, not scattering somewhere around 30…

For tunability and high performance applications I think it’s the most important aftermarket part available today, besides H4 headlights and a third brake light. For stock applications it won’t pay for itself over a good Echlin point set, but you bet your donkey I’m going 123 if I convert from carb to FI.

Robbie

Wed Dec 20, 2023 7:50 am

Still loving my 123. Going to be using it with Holley Sniper EFI shortly.

As a somewhat pricey alternative to the spacer required, you can use this:

https://www.csp-shop.com/en/electric/distributor-clamp-cagero-billet-905-251-123c-31551a.html

Spacer and billet clamp all in one!

Sat Dec 30, 2023 6:45 pm

The OP shipped me his bus from SFO to SAN last week. He has a pair of Weber 40idf’s on order from Blackline racing in Idaho. My question is after I install the new carbs ($1600 complete kit) will I be able to port suitable vacuum to his 123 ignition distributor? I have zero experience with this new fangled dizzy.

Sat Dec 30, 2023 6:48 pm

aeromech wrote: The OP shipped me his bus from SFO to SAN last week. He has a pair of Weber 40idf’s on order from Blackline racing in Idaho. My question is after I install the new carbs ($1600 complete kit) will I be able to port suitable vacuum to his 123 ignition distributor? I have zero experience with this new fangled dizzy.

Yes, remove one of the vac plugs at base of IDF and use an M4 to 4mm barb fitting. You can tee two barrels together and then run to the distributor. It works just fine with manifold vacuum. You limit the vac advance in software to only work above a set rpm.

Sat Dec 30, 2023 7:24 pm

Thanks for the tip

Thu Jan 04, 2024 10:13 am

123 made a new BUS specific version of the 123

they externalized the bluetooth TX/RX module .. so that you have a better signal (in a bus where the engine bay is a mini faraday cage 13ft away)

pretty cool
https://123ignition.com/product/tuneplus-4-r-v-v-ext-blue/

Sat Jan 06, 2024 3:34 am

Interesting that they've updated it, I've still got my new 123 Bluetooth on the bench to fit - assuming everyone with the standard model has problems with the bluetooth signal getting from the engine bay up to the dash?

Sat Jan 06, 2024 10:40 am

with the old version, it works fine for programming, that's not really an issue

but, for me, running the "Dashboard" with all the gauges has intermittent connectivity when the trunk full of cargo

Mon May 13, 2024 1:29 am

Great topic and really informative to those that need to set one up as they can be confusing if you are changing from a 009 to a 123.

I’m in the same boat I’m able to control the unit but unable to get the gauges to connect when my phone is mounted on the dash, and was wondering if there are any options, has anyone used a 12v Bluetooth extender that may boost the signal?