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  View original topic: Clear coat over Clear coat?
Chinaclipper Mon Aug 28, 2023 10:44 am

I just sprayed my bug with clearcoat. It looks pretty good! 2 coats, but there is a part of the door and back by the quarter panel that I notice a slight bit of orange peel.

Question: 1) Can I sand the affected areas, masking the rest, and put another coat of clear on? I clear coated 5 days ago. 2) what sandpaper or scuff pad should I use?

Base color coat is PPG Shopline BP on top of PPG sealer, clear coat is JC 6700.

jitbba Mon Aug 28, 2023 11:47 am

Why would you re-shoot clear? Simply color sand (2000 grit) and buff

Chinaclipper Mon Aug 28, 2023 2:42 pm

jitbba wrote: Why would you re-shoot clear? Simply color sand (2000 grit) and buff
Color sand? Please define.

BTW, love your tagline. I too am a Turkish cymbal aficionado!

jitbba Mon Aug 28, 2023 2:47 pm

sand the panel with 2000 wet sandpaper until the orange peel matches the rest of the car, then get a buffing wheel and whatever compound you would like to remove the scratches and bring out the shine

67ctbug Mon Aug 28, 2023 8:07 pm

Yeah just wet sand with 2000 then 3000 and then buff. No need to reclear. Every painter gets orange peel, don't let the internet fool you. Even if "off the gun" people claim to have it dead flat, in a few days when all the solvent evaporates it tightens up and the peel is there.

Teeroy Mon Aug 28, 2023 11:01 pm

With only 2 coats of clear he may not have enough material to color sand and buff. He could burn through while buffing or have a finish failure due to not enough UV protection due to low mils. To answer the original question you can usually wet sand and recoat as long as using the same clear ( check the msds sheets to verify). If planning to sand and buff its always a good idea to give it an extra coat or two. On high end cars we would clear the car, come back when dry wet sand with 4-500 grit, clean it all up and reclear it. Nothing like spraying clear on a fresh flat catalyzed surface! They then need very little cut and buff work and are flat as glass. Tricks of 30 years in the biz

Chinaclipper Tue Aug 29, 2023 6:09 am

Teeroy wrote: With only 2 coats of clear he may not have enough material to color sand and buff. He could burn through while buffing or have a finish failure due to not enough UV protection due to low mils. To answer the original question you can usually wet sand and recoat as long as using the same clear ( check the msds sheets to verify). If planning to sand and buff its always a good idea to give it an extra coat or two. On high end cars we would clear the car, come back when dry wet sand with 4-500 grit, clean it all up and reclear it. Nothing like spraying clear on a fresh flat catalyzed surface! They then need very little cut and buff work and are flat as glass. Tricks of 30 years in the biz
Thanks everyone for your info.....

Teeroy, I HAVE been checking and reading and reading, and THIS is what I needed to hear. I also had wondered if I had enough clear to just "sand and buff" (Color sand?)

OK, I am thinking with the clear coat I used, (PPG clear coat JC 6700) it would work then, to mask the other areas to prevent overspray and sand/scuff the clear coat with 500 grit, then put on a few more coats,THEN "color sand" as needed. Sounds good?

Thanks again, everyone, for your input.

jitbba Tue Aug 29, 2023 8:28 am

Wet sand with 400 or 600 grit is too coarse for just clear in my opinion. That would only be ok if you were shooting color again.

If you're going to reshoot clear, please be careful to not sand through the clear (as mentioned before). This would expose the base coat, and you would have to spray color again to correct

Teeroy Tue Aug 29, 2023 9:15 am

I agree on that for this situation as well. I knock down the worst of the peel with 1000 wet and them use grey 3M Scotch Brite wet to remove the gloss to the edges of panel then respray 2-3 more coats of clear

94touring Tue Aug 29, 2023 9:45 am

I do 2000, 3000, then buff. If the orange peel is really bad in an area I'll start with 1500. It's rare to need to sand with 600-800 and reclear. This was last weeks paint job.





bomberbob Tue Aug 29, 2023 7:45 pm

I think the key is to get enough coats of paint (clear) on so that you have plenty of margin for error. Runs, dirt, all kinds of defects can be corrected with enough time and either elbow grease, or enough sanding discs on the DA. With only two coats, your buffer is really thin.

94touring Wed Aug 30, 2023 5:07 am

I personally only shoot 2 coats of clear. Anything past 3 is a waste of material. If I did a bad job shooting and had excessive orange peel that required a lot of color sanding, I'd reshoot it anyway after knocking it down with 600. Ideally you're color sanding and buffing within 24 hours while it's still softer and easier to sand and buff, saving time and energy. That opens up another topic which is you can really screw up your paint buffing, especially when it's still soft. Avoid edges, sharp curves, and lips as you'll cut through to the paint or primer in a hurry. Avoid staying in one spot as you can "burn" the clear. You'll note the protective tape over a seam cover in my one photo. One clip with the outter edge of the buffing pad doing that quarter panel and goodbye paint/clear on the seam cover. I buff on a low speed setting when it's still soft but after a week or more has passed I'm at full speed typically. I use 3 different compounds with associated pads from deep cut to fine polish. I'll check my work prior to the fine polish by cleaning the surface with rubbing alcohol. This removes compound that tends to hide haze, dull spots, and swirl marks letting me know if I need to buff more before doing the final polish.

Chinaclipper Thu Aug 31, 2023 7:47 am

Great info all. Again, many thanks!
I will take the advice I have received here, especially on the choice and use of abrasives.
CC

Dusty1 Wed Sep 06, 2023 6:39 am

67ctbug wrote: Yeah just wet sand with 2000 then 3000 and then buff. No need to reclear. Every painter gets orange peel, don't let the internet fool you. Even if "off the gun" people claim to have it dead flat, in a few days when all the solvent evaporates it tightens up and the peel is there.

Usually works the other way for me.

If the color coat is smooth it's pretty easy to shoot a smooth clearcoat. I've had orange peel after shooting clear. Two weeks later the clear "shrinkwraps" the color coat.

I wouldn't sand or buff anything without waiting a couple weeks.

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