TheSamba.com Forums   Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up -> The DUNGBTL Build   View original topic: The DUNGBTL Build Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 38, 39, 40, 41, 42  Next DUNGBTL Sun Oct 05, 2025 1:05 pm Master cylinder install… I intend to run 4 wheel disc brakes. CSP vented rotors (Porsche 5x130 bcd) front… …CB Performance rear disc kit (essentially Porsche 914 rears) back… To that end, I need a larger diameter master cylinder. I bought the CSP 20.6mm master with their matching adapter kit specifically for 1302/1303’s up to ‘74… I first installed the adapter spacer onto the master cylinder. Then with the help of an alignment punch, and a very helpful wife, I was able to bolt it in. She was willing and able to crawl under the car and wiggle the master around until I could thread (w/o cross threading) a bolt into the adapter. I had ground the bolt tips to a conical taper to aid install…this helped a lot to start them threading. The CSP 20.6mm master fitment is tight. The elbow for the front brake reservoir feed was just touching the spare tire well reinforcement… I had to spend a fair amount of time carefully grinding a clearance cutout in the structure… Should have adequate clearance for the elbow and its hose now… I also had to re-bend the front brake circuit hardline due to the master’s adapter moving the line connection fwd… Clearance is tight here too… You may note that there are no hydraulic brake switches. I purposely eliminated those in favor of a more modern, quicker responding, and leak proof pedal activated brake light switch… …which I have already run the wires for… Also note that due to the CSP 20.6mm master cylinder ‘adapter’…or spacer (I’m not sure why it requires this…?)…the kit supplies a new actuation rod. It’s longer than the OEM… …I assume to compensate for the spacer and keep the pedal actuation range the same as OEM. I’m now waiting for my new brake fluid reservoir and blue braided hoses to arrive to hook up to the master. J. H2OSB Sun Oct 05, 2025 6:08 pm Quite nice and remarkably familiar. H2OSB DUNGBTL Thu Oct 09, 2025 7:12 am More Drillium nonsense… :roll: vamram Thu Oct 09, 2025 9:32 am DUNGBTL wrote: Master cylinder install… …which I have already run the wires for… J. J, I have one of those pedal brake switches as well but have yet to install it. Can you explain in a bit of detail how you will wire it for power? Thanks! DUNGBTL Thu Oct 09, 2025 10:35 am vamram wrote: DUNGBTL wrote: Master cylinder install… …which I have already run the wires for… J. J, I have one of those pedal brake switches as well but have yet to install it. Can you explain in a bit of detail how you will wire it for power? Thanks! Be glad to! BTW, the switch I bought came with wiring instructions… Here’s what I did since I was making a custom harness. I eliminated all the wiring from the hydraulic brake switches…as shown here… …and took the black 12V brake light feed from fuse 11 and ran it to the new pedal switch… …that’s the black wire in the foot well picture above. Then I ran the old hydraulic ‘switch trigger’ red/black wire (that used to come from T3) from the new pedal switch to the brake lights. That’s the red/black wire in the footwell pic. I tested the continuity and all was well. Since I had my third brake light all ready installed and wired…but not the main brake lights…I connected the battery and tested the switch and WA-LA! So I’m pretty confident I got the wiring correct. It’s a pretty simple switched circuit. Oh, and I eliminated the brake warning light…I don’t need an idiot light to tell me when my brakes are going south! :roll: Hope this is of some help, J. vamram Thu Oct 09, 2025 10:43 am Thanks! 8) DUNGBTL Sun Oct 12, 2025 9:51 am Installed the brake fluid reservoir and connected the hoses to the master cylinder. Mocked up the aftermarket stainless lines… I used a tubing bender to put a little more shape into the reservoir ends of the hard lines to get a smoother hose run… Master cylinder ends lined up well enough… About a 1/4” of clearance to the steering shaft boot… The reservoir to master cylinder lines sees ‘head’ pressure in normal use and hose clamps aren’t really needed (assuming the hose/nipples aren’t fubar). I used them here because I plan on using a pressure bleeder (Motive) at ~15 psi when bleeding the brakes (they’re ABA mini S10 size 13mm clamps from BelMetric). J. DUNGBTL Wed Oct 15, 2025 8:05 am MILESTONE ALERT! Doors close and latch for the first time in 3.5 yrs! :shock: Taking a break from working on my back (no snide remarks bruceo98 :wink:) and decided to rebuild the doors. Started with installing the door seals and latches. I bought WW’s door seal kit…all the door and window seals, scrapers, including the vent windows. It uses Brazilian door seals… There was adhesive residue and debris in the seal channels so I used a plastic (Delrin) scraping tool, wood dowel and soapy rag to cleaned out the channels… Took me a while to figure out the correct orientation of the seals (I’m slow… :oops:). I figured out that this (what I call) door latch ‘flap’ part of the seal… …is positioned in the door channel such that it fills/seals the gap that the door latch and striker plate creates… …like so… Once the flap was positioned correctly, the ‘right corners’ of the seal and door lined up. I used some soapy water to aid seating the seal… I bought new striker plates… …but throughly cleaned (solvent) and lubricated the 53 yr old OEM latches… …the clean one is on the left. I also cleaned the OEM inside door releases (tip: after cleaning, coat the plastic latch with silicon grease and let sit over night…wipe dry)… The WW door kit included new door handle seals. While everything else in their ‘kit’ seems the highest quality available today, these seals are plastic like. I was expecting rubber. They are nice and black and don’t have any ‘hanging chads’ :roll: …so there’s that. The DUNGBTL came with an aftermarket driver’s and OEM passenger side door handle. The passengers side’s chrome, being original and older, had pitting. The worst of which was on the topside…so I flipped it and used it on the driver’s side and vice/versa. However, I found that the aftermarket one (naturally) didn’t lay flat on the door. The small end was up off the door skin by ~1/16”. Enough to allow the plastic seal to slide around and set off my OCD alarm! So I gave that end a good ‘tweak’ and set things right… The drivers side, being OEM, had no problems getting with the program… I fiddled with the striker plates until the doors shut and aligned with the body as well as they were ever going to. The passenger side is near perfect (to my eye)… Passenger side naturally is used far less so its factory like fitment wasn’t surprising. Obviously the driver’s side sees a lot more abuse. It’s alignment is near perfect mid-door and up to roof…lower side is ok, good enough for this build… I’ll revisit the door/body alignment after the car’s on the ground, fully weighted and with the roll cage installed…alignments may change. I found that the ‘door latch flap’ of the seal would curl in and not fill the gap. So I put it in it’s intended position and closed the door… …leaving it over night. That ‘trained’ it to stay in that position so that it seals as intended when you now close the door. Those seals have been twisted up, sealed in plastic bags probably for years! You’d need some time and coaching out of the bag to relax too! :wink: J. DUNGBTL Thu Oct 16, 2025 10:56 am Door rebuild continues… Restored the window regulators. Lots of good how-to’s here on Samba and on YouTube for this task. The search function is your friend. I watched Slade’s excellent YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BUq3fAEvmg&list=PLxPV96k43C_g8ot-9BLEeL6d6EWjhywB2&index=38 Here’s my version… Started w/the RHS… Un-crimped the ‘stop’ at the bottom of the tube… …this allows the regulator’s worm drive ‘worm’ to be removed… Used WD40, metal polish, red Scotch-Brite, brass and nylon ‘toothbrushes’ to clean out the tube and window channel… Rinsed everything out w/cleaning solvent. Use compressed air to blow dry, especially the worm drive gearbox which I lubricated after… Cleaned the worm, which appears to be a spring coiled around a felt core. I assume they used felt to quiet the actuation and to retain any lubricant. I used a nylon ‘toothbrush’ and WD40 to clean the worm… …after which I blew out the residue with compressed air leaving the original white felt pretty clean… I used some quality bike assembly grease (it’s a little ‘lighter’ than typical automotive grease) to ‘paint’ the worm, inside the tube, and the window channel… Reassembled and re-crimped closed the window stop end of the tube… Done! Pretty simple, easy, yet very satisfying restoration of the 53 yr old OEM West German mechanism… It’s smooth like butter! :D vamram Thu Oct 16, 2025 12:34 pm Man, you're raising the bar yet again. I'm gonna have rebuild the four regulators on my 2 running Supers now. 8) DUNGBTL Thu Oct 16, 2025 2:31 pm vamram wrote: Man, you're raising the bar yet again. I'm gonna have rebuild the four regulators on my 2 running Supers now. 8) :D DOOOO IT! The hardest part will be getting the regulators out and back in with the doors/windows assembled! J. vwuberalles Sun Oct 19, 2025 7:13 am Park Tools grease is so good! I use it on my cars and scooters too. DUNGBTL Wed Oct 22, 2025 4:01 pm Got the seals and glass in on one door… Restored the original vent windows. They were not in too bad of shape…not rusted out but the seals were shot and the vent locks were bound up. I drilled out the pivot rivets…they gave me some trouble, didn’t want to come out so I had to grind the heads off… The vent locks looked pretty good, they were just sticky. I drove out the tiny roll pin, popped the lever off it’s ‘shaft’ and cleaned everything with WD40 and 0000 steel wool and metal polish… …gave the lock pivot a good greasing w/Red ‘n Sticky and put it all back together…DON’T FORGET THE WAVY WASHER! :wink: …they work like new! I removed the vent glass from their frames thinking I needed to renew the rubber gaskets. Not so, the factory gaskets came out easily. They were not glued in from the factory; I found no evidence of adhesive in the frame. I found both seals in one piece and still pliable. Decided to reuse them… …so I cleaned them in hot soapy water to reinstall… Before I reinstalled the vent glass I polished all the scum off using metal polish, WD40 and 0000 steel wool… …wiped the residue off w/glass cleaner… Brushed Dawn soap on the rubber and in the channel to reinstall the glass… …slipped right in. I did not reinstall the ‘rain gutters’. Mine were chewed up a bit. I like the cleaner look w/o them. On the passenger side frame, it looked as if someone pried open the vent window once or twice. I used a ‘points file’ and 400 sandpaper w/WD40 to remove the tell-tail gouges then polished everything with 0000 steel wool, metal polish and WD40. Installed new rubbers in the frames and a new felts in the roll up window channels… Turned my attention to the pivots. I did not want to use rivets but I wanted the hole filling that the OEM compression rivet provides. I found that the OEM pivot holes are the perfect size to tap for a M5 machine screw… So I did that and installed stainless M5 Allen button head screws and nylock nuts. Gives great clamp-up, no slop and provides good friction yet pivots…and easily removable for any future servicing… Used silicone grease when installing the rubber seals and brushed some on the vent window sealing surface to help the window close and seal the entire length. Installed vent window in the passenger door, followed by the roll up window felt. I then install the inside scraper which proved to be the hardest thing so far on this door restore. WHAT A PITA! :evil: There’s very little room to install with the outside scraper in place (outside has to go in first)…the clips refused to clip in the door holes (with new scrapers you only get 4 instead of the OEM 7…now I see why!). It didn’t help the the WW inside scraper for RHS was trimmed too long so that the ‘notch’ that goes around the vent window vertical post was too far forward preventing the clips to line up with the door holes! :evil: :evil: :evil: Some words were uttered. I sussed out the issue in due time and made the necessary trimming. All ended well…but I’ll be ready for this when I do the driver’s door (waiting for 2 more ‘felt clips’ before I can proceed). The money shots… (Yes the window is rolled up…it’s that clean! :D ) One more door to go! Looking forward to making my custom door cards! J. hulbyw Thu Oct 23, 2025 4:06 am Love your work as always however I have a question. By replacing the pivot rivets with a machine screw, have you now made it easier for a thief to gain access to the inside of your Beetle? DUNGBTL Thu Oct 23, 2025 6:54 am hulbyw wrote: Love your work as always however I have a question. By replacing the pivot rivets with a machine screw, have you now made it easier for a thief to gain access to the inside of your Beetle? Maybe…but don’t tell anyone! :wink: I did have that thought after I installed them. But then I reasoned that if I was looking to get into the car, instead of using a 3mm Allen key and 8mm wrench to unscrew the nut & bolt, I’d just use a common screwdriver to pry and overcome the 53 yr old vent window lock. It’d probably be quicker and easier. …or use the even more common ‘large rock’… J. MACJELLY58 Thu Oct 23, 2025 10:21 pm The thief would break his hand. He would think that the window was down like the rest of us. Before you assured us that the window was up and that it was just that clean, I was thinking why are you showing us photos with no glass? You Sir, are a machine. It's amazing how much you are able to get done and consistently! Of course, Kudos to your lovely wife for getting under the car. That is a good partner. Thanks for sharing. **EDIT** Sorry, I had meant to say how much I admire the "HOLY" door handles. They really look awesome! Along with the other Perforations. This car is going to end up 30% lighter. =D> DUNGBTL Fri Oct 24, 2025 2:50 pm MACJELLY58 wrote: The thief would break his hand. He would think that the window was down like the rest of us. Before you assured us that the window was up and that it was just that clean, I was thinking why are you showing us photos with no glass? You Sir, are a machine. It's amazing how much you are able to get done and consistently! Of course, Kudos to your lovely wife for getting under the car. That is a good partner. Thanks for sharing. **EDIT** Sorry, I had meant to say how much I admire the "HOLY" door handles. They really look awesome! Along with the other Perforations. This car is going to end up 30% lighter. =D> :D :thumbsup: Funny…when I was reviewing that picture before posting I was wondering if I had left the window down. I had to stare at it until I could see the label in the upper right corner. I was so amazed that it was that clean to appear down that I had to add that note! Indeed my wife is super supportive and puts up w/all my shenanigans! She’s the best! RE. The Holy door handles…Amen! I thought for sure someone was going to comment on them after I posted. I was surprised when they only generated ‘crickets’! :lol: So…thanks! Appreciate you! \:D/ You keep the good work up Jelly! J. DUNGBTL Sat Oct 25, 2025 6:47 pm Door Pulls… Not wanting to use the OEM arm rest/door pulls and after considering several various available Porsche/VW pulls I decided to make my own. Zero new money was spent…I had all the materials in stock. :D :thumbsup: Mock up… …feels right… Dimensions ensures symmetry with the other door… End caps painted to match the roll cage and other interior bits ‘n bobs… I have something in mind for the window cranks…the WW repops are not going to cut it. Specifically the hand knob is so loose, wobbly…really cheap feeling. It feels as if it’s already worn out…and it’s new! I have something better on order. J. diamondblue1969 Sun Oct 26, 2025 8:53 am Mk2 golf window cranks are robust and fit . DUNGBTL Sat Nov 01, 2025 11:52 am Well…the car is far from finished…however the interior doors are done! My custom door cards won’t work with the OEM arm rest bracket so I drilled out the tiny 1/8” spot welds and removed them… No worse for wear, they can be reused if need be… Made a cardboard templates and captured all the interior door penetrations… …transferred the pattern to 1/8” MDF… Coated the backside with fiberglass resin for moisture resistance (I’m not using vapor barriers)… Covered them with German ‘basket weave’ vinyl… The WW window cranks I had purchased are sub-standard, junk…too much play in the knob…they feel worn out and they’re brand new! So I found what are probably the most robust VW window cranks available… I think besides cockroaches, these would also survive an atomic blast. Naturally I had to modify them in my usual fashion. I like that you can remove the solid spun aluminum knob… The high offset is a bonus…no more rubbing your hands against the door card while winding. Drillium for the win! I also ‘redesigned’ my door pull. I used some 1/8” neoprene rubber, cutting a narrower strap and revised the end finials… Installed M5 Rivnuts to retain the straps… The V1.0 looked like ‘someone’s’ old pants belt :shock: :oops: I like V2.0 better…they also got a better review from the Mrs. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Painted all the bits with SteelIt to tie them in with the other interior bits and bobs… J. Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group