TheSamba.com :: View topic - Another Pickle Post

Tue Jan 30, 2024 1:42 pm

Is there any reason an oval filler neck wouldn’t work for my ‘73? It’s from an FI VW and has the float bowl as evidenced in the photos.

Mine has a round filler neck, not sure if/why it would matter though.

Wed Jan 31, 2024 5:22 pm

Chunk says “Let’s get to work!”

The new Quality Control Manager is on the job.

Thu Feb 01, 2024 12:42 pm

A 19 mm impact socket has the perfect slot for tube bending it turns out. 😉

Fri Feb 09, 2024 1:56 pm

Sent my calipers and MC out to have Jim Adney rebuild them ( thanks Jim!!) so I’ve just got a couple of items in the mail I’ll be installing.

Hoping to have the fuel tank sorted soon, then time to focus on the fuel system.

Fri Feb 09, 2024 2:15 pm

Scotty D wrote: Sent my calipers and MC out to have Jim Adney rebuild them ( thanks Jim!!) so I’ve just got a couple of items in the mail I’ll be installing.

Hoping to have the fuel tank sorted soon, then time to focus on the fuel system.

Keep in mind that the tank outlet kit might not work with your tank. I say that because your tank is designed for a 5/16ths (8mm) outlet pipe (FI cars). It might still work, but I'd try to find an FI outlet part, and just open up the fiber washer to fit the larger pipe. Just a heads up on that.

Fri Feb 09, 2024 3:54 pm

Thanks Bob, I’ll check into it.

Tue Feb 13, 2024 9:51 pm

My car was missing the inspection plate on the front of the tunnel, so I grabbed one from another member. He even sent the gasket and extra screws!

Thanks Manfred! 😎

Got it cleaned up while waiting for my calipers to make it back home.

Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:36 pm

Brake calipers and master cylinder have been rebuilt and returned. Hoping to have them reinstalled and bled this weekend.

Sun Mar 03, 2024 6:48 pm

Finally found some free time. All of the brake components are reinstalled. Started bleeding the system again, only to find the front circuit rubber seal leaking on the master cylinder. Always something huh?

Ordered new seals from ISP, should have them soon.

Wed Mar 06, 2024 5:55 pm

The MC grommets I ordered were delivered today. Decided to grab a new boot for the rebuilt MC I have in my stash as well.

Sometimes I feel like I’m just getting “Punk’d” and Ashton Kutcher is going to walk around the corner with his camera crew laughing at me.

1) Does this look remotely close to the image on the invoice (which is the same as online when ordering)?
2)Do you guys think this boot will fit with a little persuasion?

Wed Mar 06, 2024 7:33 pm

Replaced the leaky grommet without issue. Made a little mess but was ready with a container beneath the MC to recapture the brake fluid. The grommet sits a bit taller on the upper surface, but makes a tight seal around the nipple.

Did a quick (read rudimentary) brake bleeding session and have a somewhat decent pedal now. I really need to get the wife involved and have her stomp on the pedal a bit while I bleed out. 😂

Fri Mar 08, 2024 10:36 am

Found myself thinking “I’ve owned this VW for 4 months now and have nothing to show for it.” Then I looked back at this post and realized that’s simply not true.

Then remembered it’s a marathon, not a sprint.

Thanks for all of the help and responses so far guys. It’s gonna be a fun journey.!🤙🏼

Sun Mar 10, 2024 2:16 pm

Is bench bleeding a newly installed master cylinder an absolute necessity?

Still can’t seem to get a good pedal after bleeding the system (by myself 🤪).

Tried pumping the pedal and propping a 2x6 against the pedal/seat to keep it down, and also tried a hand vacuum pump. Hoping to avoid pulling the MC and starting the whole process again.

Sun Mar 10, 2024 6:11 pm

Took a break from the brake system (😜) and worked on some connections for the new fuel pump. I’m leaving the factory connector just in case someone wants to install an original pump some day.

Also replaced the steering coupler since it was in pretty rough shape.

The new one in place.

Mon Mar 11, 2024 12:27 pm

That's the big thing to remember, it IS a marathon and not a sprint. I've rebuilt a few of the cars, and I've spent 6 months or more just doing rust repair, before moving onto mechanical work, followed by electrical work. Then maybe an engine rebuild, if I don't toss my spare engine in it. Then I can work on body and paint. It's usually a 2 or 3 year process, depending on the condition I start with. That's not even factoring in wait times for shipping stuff from California either (new parts).

Fri Mar 15, 2024 2:13 pm

Bobnotch wrote: That's the big thing to remember, it IS a marathon and not a sprint. I've rebuilt a few of the cars, and I've spent 6 months or more just doing rust repair, before moving onto mechanical work, followed by electrical work. Then maybe an engine rebuild, if I don't toss my spare engine in it. Then I can work on body and paint. It's usually a 2 or 3 year process, depending on the condition I start with. That's not even factoring in wait times for shipping stuff from California either (new parts).

That sounds about right. I guess the best thing I have going for me currently is living in SoCal, not far from ISP West. Parts supply is nearby, so that's a bonus.

I'll probably have all of the fuel hoses replaced this weekend. Got a bonus day off from work on Monday to spend some time on the Squareback finally.

Fri Mar 22, 2024 9:04 am

Spent a couple of hours polishing one of the Empi wheels. Looks good, but not sure I want to do the other three now. :?

Fri Mar 22, 2024 1:14 pm

That looks good. 8) Were they originally polished before you got them? If they weren't, then that's a lot of work to polish them. You might want to contact Mag Masters, and see what they'd charge to polish them. Or contact So Cal Imports and see what they'd get to polish them. My son has polished 8 spokes on his car, and he spends quite a bit of time polishing them. But then I'll spend quite a bit of time polishing my 36 spoke Shelby rims too. That's the problem with polished rims, keeping them polished. They look best when polished, but are a royal PIA to keep clean. Sorry, it's just something you deal with when having them.
I use a die grinder with a buffing pad on it, and still spend most of the day cleaning them. Like I said, they look their best when polished. :lol: 8)
Are you going to get some screw in lug studs and convert your lug nuts to chrome? That's what I did, but I also carry some stock lug nuts for my spare tire since my rims use a shanked lug stud.

Fri Mar 22, 2024 1:41 pm

Thanks Bob.

The wheel that I started with looked to have been hand polished at some point, it was much better looking than the other three were. I don't think there is any kind of clear coat on the wheels, as a slight rub with polish gets the black result on the rag almost immediately.

I did buy a couple of drill attachments, the foam cone shaped types I found at autozone and harbor freight. I think I'll get some smaller attachments for the tighter spots. I'm used to polishing all kinds of aluminum BMX parts, and even did a few complete frame sets as well. But these wheels are something else, taking lots of patience and repeat passes with the buffer or by hand.

Definitely interested in some type of lug/bolt upgrade. I hadn't considered using lug studs instead of the bolts that it came with.

Fri Mar 22, 2024 2:25 pm

Scotty D wrote:
Definitely interested in some type of lug/bolt upgrade. I hadn't considered using lug studs instead of the bolts that it came with.

Most import shops like So Cal Imports, CB Performance and the like carry conversion studs. In your case you'll need 14 mm to something (whatever the lug nut has). My son is using 1/2-20 by 14mm studs on his car. He red loctites them in place so they don't back out or get loose. The 1/2-20 lug thread is pretty common, and can be found at most auto parts stores and tire shops. In my case I have the shanked lug bolt (like a Cragar rim uses) because of my rims. On my wife's 70 Fastback, she's got non-polished 8 spokes with screw in lug studs like I listed above complete with red loctite. I only mentioned the lug nuts and studs, because in most cases the stock lug bolt is a little short with aftermarket rims, and I'd hate to see you lose a tire while driving. Or pull the threads out of the rear hub or rotor when trying to get them tight enough. Just a heads up safety thing is all.