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  View original topic: 1977 Bus Bay Window Sportsmobile Project
GT_matt Sun Jan 21, 2024 1:17 pm

Hi all, I've been out of the VW world for a while, but decided to get back in with this '77 bay window. This particular bus has some family history, so I'm excited to get it back into good condition. This will be a multi-year project, as I do not have tons of time to dedicate (50hr week job + 3 boys under 7). Mechanically: I am competent. Electrically: I know a little but not confident. Bodywork: This is my first welding and bodywork experience.

This is how it looked when I picked it up at the end of '22.
It's a '77 bus, with a '79 engine and '75? transmission.
Engine and transmission were shot. Only found on teardown.
It's in 'decent' shape, just needs a lot of attention. It spent the last 20ish years in Florida. I picked it up and brought it back to Alabama.



Someone downgraded engine from original FI to carb.


I've spent the last year making plans and starting initial repairs. I'd like to keep it reliable but do some modern upgrades. The to do list:
Fix all rust holes (currently 5 major spots)
Replace all consumables and broken bits
Full engine refurb
Upgrade engine to modern FI
New transmission
New cabinets / camp-stuff
Paint and make "pretty" (not green)
I plan to use this thread for periodic updates but also asking basic questions. I'll be asking for much help. I appreciate your advice in advance. This space here will be a "table of contents" for any open issues / questions and status:
Dogleg / Step drain holes ? [Open Question]

GT_matt Sun Jan 21, 2024 1:31 pm

Can someone advise me on the correct "drain path" or which open holes are ok at the step location?
This lower dogleg section of the door had a good bit of rust and I can't tell what's original. The panel gap from below kind of makes sense, but seems like it would be a big opportunity for water to get in during driving conditions.

Already replaced a number of sections here. Floor pan section, Wheel arch section, then inner and outer step.

Do I need to drill the 3 holes into the top of the step?
This was the first section I tackled, learning to weld, and it was not pretty. Too many overlapping panels. It's done, but not winning any awards.

From below, front edge of the step, there is a gap in the panels. Appears to be a planned open section for drainage. Can someone share if this is correct or needs sealing? A reference picture of good condition would be helpful.

driver's side example. Seems like it should be a drain point, but it's not at the lowest point of the channel.

Now working on the drivers side

aeromech Sun Jan 21, 2024 7:08 pm

I’m a mechanic, not a body guy. Here’s some advice on your engine. Find a complete, used, FI engine that has all the parts and life left. A couple weeks ago a guy started a thread about converting his bus to an EV. His engine has been rehomed but there will be others. People are swapping in Subaru engines all the time and that’s a good source for you to get something that works and not break the bank

dodger tom Sun Jan 21, 2024 7:38 pm

pardon me for butting in, but i think what gary is getting at is that it would be way easier to buy an fi engine than convert a carbureted one. plus, you might score an fi harness, which you’ll need.

GT_matt Sun Jan 21, 2024 9:00 pm

I already picked up FI kit from thedubshop. I'm an engine guy, so i'm more comfortable with engines i've torn down. Plus I looked around a bit last year when I was planning and didn't see much available. Good advice on tracking down people doing subaru swaps, they are pulling out the good stuff.

GT_matt Mon Feb 12, 2024 7:55 pm

Hi, trying to get an answer to previous post. See detail above in #2 (Dogleg step drain holes).
The original step has 3 holes. What is purpose?
New repair panels have zero holes. Do I need to add?

From underneath it appears like there is 3 holes:
1. At front, below A pillar, where several panels come together. Open seam.
2. At back of step, round hole straight down
3. At back of step, oblong hole on inside. (possibly had rubber plug?)

Anyway, i'm trying to confirm what should and should not be a drain path. Obviously this is important to prevent water intrusion and allow proper drainage.

A few pictures of a normal bus would be helpful. Thanks.

aeromech Mon Feb 12, 2024 11:26 pm

Here’s a wild ass guess on those three holes. I think their purpose is to located and hold down the replaceable rubber step which is probably available from a place like West Coast Metric.

Like this possibly

https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22966753-step-pads-front-bumper-left-right-german-bus-1973-79.html

W1K1 Tue Feb 13, 2024 8:50 am

GT_matt wrote: I already picked up FI kit from thedubshop. I'm an engine guy, so i'm more comfortable with engines i've torn down. Plus I looked around a bit last year when I was planning and didn't see much available. Good advice on tracking down people doing subaru swaps, they are pulling out the good stuff.

the Modern Bay had a picture on instagram of a half dozen engines they were looking to clear out of their shop from Subi swaps

GT_matt Sun Nov 30, 2025 8:06 pm

Moving along slowly, my hours to work are limited. But wanted to show updated status of body work.

1. Front nose replaced. had too big of a dent to salvage, plus rust holes along window frame.

2. Lots of holes in bed patched.

3. Rear engine panels. was way worse than expected, having to replace from corner to corner. still in progress, way slower than I wanted.
The pillars near engine bay and battery tray were gone. Hardest part is trying to have some good reference points datum and not cutting it all out.
It also had previous repair in driver rear quarter, because I found a solid 1/2" of filler and really poor patch repair.
But have all my pieces cut to size, fitted 10 times, now slowly piecing back together.

My goal was to have all bodywork completed this year, but I don't think that's going to happen.




Before

In Progress


aeromech Sun Nov 30, 2025 8:13 pm

Might as well install a battery door :)

Bnanwel Sun Nov 30, 2025 9:58 pm

You don’t need the door. It will be easier to install the battery without it. It always takes longer than you think; just keep going. You’ll get there.

aeromech Sun Nov 30, 2025 10:06 pm

It was an inside joke

jtauxe Wed Dec 03, 2025 3:27 pm

W1K1 wrote: GT_matt wrote: I already picked up FI kit from thedubshop. I'm an engine guy, so i'm more comfortable with engines i've torn down. Plus I looked around a bit last year when I was planning and didn't see much available. Good advice on tracking down people doing subaru swaps, they are pulling out the good stuff.

the Modern Bay had a picture on instagram of a half dozen engines they were looking to clear out of their shop from Subi swaps

Yes to this. Grab a decent used core Type IV engine and haul it to Painter's Grinding in Denver for a rebuild.



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