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Mon Jul 21, 2003 6:09 pm

I have a 1974 super beatle and need to replace the accelerator cable due to the s hook breaking. Can some one tell me if the cable runs through a tube through out the whole car or do I need to fish it through underneath the body. This will help me dtermine the steps I need to take in order to repalce it. Thank you

Tue Jul 22, 2003 7:37 am

There's a tube that uns through the tunnel, and should run through a seperate metal tube that feeds through the shroud on the motor. Piece if cake. If you still have your old cable in place, you can disconnect from carburator, push it up towards the pedal, then tape your new cable to the end of your broke one. Then pull gently from the carburator end, while your buddy feeds the new cable through at the pedal.

Tue Jul 22, 2003 9:38 am

there is also a flexible tube that runs from the chassis over the tranny and to the piece of tin/ metal tube in the fan housing. be sure and liberally grease the new cable going in.

Sun Jul 19, 2015 8:42 am

Hi all,
Another air cooled newbie question:
The accelerator cable on my '74 SB convertible broke (right at my driveway) and will obviously need to be replaced. I checked this forum and found these postings from years back and the procedure seems to be straight forward. Are there any new "insights" from other VW wizards that will help this "ten thumbs" shade tree mechanic?

Sun Jul 19, 2015 9:16 am

Not a wizard, but just changed my clutch and throttle cable.

1. Throttle cable.
I thought it would be an 'idiot' proof simple job! I tried to pull the cable out through the front end, but it kept sticking and would not pull through, no matter how I twisted twirled or pulled the cable. I considered cutting the engine end off, to allow it to pull past what ever it was catching on. In the end I pushed a piece of brass brasing rod down from the back end and it came out easily. Still don't know what it catched on. The new cable runs smooth with no catching.
2. Clutch cable.
Again would not pull through from the front and kept snagging on something. In the end I cut the front eyelet off and pulled through from the rear. I deduced the flexible clutch pipe at the engine end has a lip which cause it to snag on the threaded cable end. New cable slid in easily. I could have saved the old cable by pulling off the flexible clutch pipe and then pullin cable through the front. And saved the old cable as a spare.

Sun Jul 19, 2015 9:24 am

It may not be necessary, but I always have a tub of white lithium grease handy as I feed the accelerator cable, applying grease liberally as I insert the cable.

Sun Jul 19, 2015 3:02 pm

Or you can load up a paper towel with grease, then feed the cable though the grease as you push it into the tube. I have found that it is a little cleaner that way, and less chance of getting grease on the carpet or other places on the car.

Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:04 pm

Some throttle cables are coming with a plastic sheath. I replaced the throttle cables on my 74 and 78. I think it was the 78 that had the plastic sheath. Great idea in my opinion. Either way I still grease the *#@%! out of any cable I install. Yes it's messy but less metal to metal friction and reduces wear on the cables. Would be easy to put a plastic sheath on any cable.

Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:46 pm

Don't pull the old acc cable out all the way. pull it about 3/4 of the way out from the engine compartment. Put the new acc cable in from the gas pedal. Where they both meet, somewhere near the transmission, duct tape the new cable to the old. Then finish pulling the old cable out. This saves the hassel of trying to find the hole in the engine to feed the new cable through. Not to mention messing around with the acc cable tube behind the carburator.

Thu Jul 23, 2015 2:59 pm

Hi all,
I got my new "bullet proof" accelerator cable from aircooled.net and will attempt to get it installed this afternoon or in the morning. They claim that this cable is a "super duty" thicker construction. It comes with a fitting at the throttle that is fixed with a nut and bolt affair instead of the old style system.
Thanks to all for their advice, it was and is appreciated.

Thu Jul 23, 2015 3:06 pm

If I have to replace the cable again, I likely will upgrade to this as well.

Unless I get cheap and just use the spare one I already have. Come to think of it: my 1971 Super has had this break twice, but my 1970 with 260K is on the original cable (I've had that since 1972).

Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:15 pm

Since I bought my Bug - July 2013 - I have two cables broken so far,
None of them were "bullet proof" , just 5-7$ a piece from Autozone/Napa/Oreillys across the street.

Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:09 pm

the bullet proof cable did cost more ($14.95) then what I could find locally and even more with shipping costs. Hopefully it will be worth the extra money.

Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:02 pm

The heavy duty throttle cable was no problem routing from the accelerator pedal back to the carburetor - I took the advice given here and was able to tape the old to the new wire and gently pushed and pulled the new wire into position as I sprayed white lithium grease onto the cable as it entered the tube at the pedal - went very easy. The problem came when I tried to attach the cable at the pedal; the replacement cable uses a nut and bolt along with washers for spacing the cable properly to align with the tube to minimize binding. The accelerator on my '74 'vert has torqued over the years and is bent; I was able to find a bit longer bolt and a few more washers to solve the issue for the time being.
I saw a redesigned accelerator for VW on a youtube that was from uniqueproducts.com that is a new design that corrects the twisting accelerator. Has anyone updated their VW with this product? What do you think?
Thanks to everyone on Samba for all your help and advice.

Fri Jul 24, 2015 4:20 pm

pepsiguy78 wrote: I saw a redesigned accelerator for VW on a youtube that was from uniqueproducts.com that is a new design that corrects the twisting accelerator. Has anyone updated their VW with this product? What do you think?
Thanks to everyone on Samba for all your help and advice.

That is a wonderful upgrade and while your at it, get the clutch piece they make too. Another better idea.

Fri Jul 24, 2015 6:42 pm

I bought a uniqueparts.com clutch shaft and it fit perfectly. As an added bonus, it does away with the hook on the stock clutch shaft.

If my cable breaks again, I'll spring for their pedal arrangement. But I just replaced the accelerator pivot arm, so mine's straight--and I don't stopm on the pedal ... much to the chagrin of those cars that travel behind me.

Tim

Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:20 pm

ps2375 wrote: pepsiguy78 wrote: I saw a redesigned accelerator for VW on a youtube that was from uniqueproducts.com that is a new design that corrects the twisting accelerator. Has anyone updated their VW with this product? What do you think?
Thanks to everyone on Samba for all your help and advice.

That is a wonderful upgrade and while your at it, get the clutch piece they make too. Another better idea.

Yet another "newbie" question:
How is the original accelerator (roller assembly) attached to the car? Is it a pin that will need to be pressed off, popped out with a punch or?

Thanks again!

Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:25 pm

It uses the same hardware that their updated pedal uses, if I'm remembering correctly. I only took it apart once to update the accelerator pedal and the clutch piece.

Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:27 pm

[quote="ps2375"]Nope, just an "S" hook that goes into a hole in the bracket.[/quote
]

Oops, I asked the wrong question.
I meant to ask how the accelerator was attached and how do I undo it

Thanks for the quick response.

Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:29 pm

[quote="pepsiguy78"] ps2375 wrote: Nope, just an "S" hook that goes into a hole in the bracket.[/quote
]

Oops, I asked the wrong question.
I meant to ask how the accelerator was attached and how do I undo it

Thanks for the quick response.

They have a video of it, and the pedal assy has two bolts holding it to the tunnel, you'll need to remove them to change either/both.