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Wed Aug 07, 2024 8:12 am

Heiferman wrote: If anyone is following along:
What is the common routing for the fuel sender wire?

I'm enjoying following along and here's a photo borrowed from the gallery showing the routing of the fuel sender wire.

Wed Aug 07, 2024 8:55 am

Hobug wrote: Heiferman wrote: If anyone is following along:
What is the common routing for the fuel sender wire?

I'm enjoying following along and here's a photo borrowed from the gallery showing the routing of the fuel sender wire.

Thanks. That is a good view. It will be helpful with some of the fuel vent lines too. I will see what the closest and smallest hole is behind the speedo I guess.

I wonder if that ground screw for the BN-4 is the stock location. I will definitely need help wiring the heater to the timer, etc. I have the schematics but the wires I have do not seem to match up in length and plugs etc and I do not want to cut into anything as it all looks like NOS wires. I may be missing a piece. But that is for another day.

Today I am putting the speedo.back together after replacing the broken glass and then getting back inside to continue work on the dash wiring.

The PO drilled some pretty big holes in the panel to the right of the speedo so I need to weld in some patches in order to move the switches back where they belong.

Also on the list is a patch panel for the rear bumper so I can rehang that and build a support bracket for the temp Empi exhaust.

And I need to continue body repairs to the DS foot well of the 7.3 tow rig.

Wed Aug 07, 2024 4:25 pm

Like many folks discover when they get any old car, the POs had their way with the dash if this poor Thing. I knew that I would need to fix the holes since the 4 way switch was moved to a spot that would not allow the right cover to close. There were also some switches added and other stuff that I am sure would have done something if wired properly....maybe.
Here is a pic of the panel after I took out today.

It went into the blast cabinet. The first layer came off easy but there was an off white layer that gave the Black Beauty media a little challenge. The original orange came right off.

Then I got busy filling holes. I did it by welding in plugs, a few washers or just straight up welding the holes using a cooper backer. Cleaned up the welds and redrilled the holes I need including the stock holes.

I mocked up the switches.Not bad.
12v plug, momentary for windshield wash, momentary to prime the fuel pump if needed, and proper location for the 4 ways and the brake sensor light (which I have never actually ever seen work on any Beetle or Type 2 I have ever owned lol )

I hit it with some self etching primer until I can get a bit of filler to cover the pin holes.

Everything takes longer than I excpect. :?

Wed Aug 07, 2024 4:39 pm

Also today I worked on the rear bumper.
The PO had welded in a 2" receiver hitch that interfered with the header. (I assume he expected to tow his 28 foot travel trailer.) I guess the interference is why there was no exhaust on the car when I got it.

I cut the mess out last week.

Then dug out some 3/16 steel and measured out a patch - at least I thought I got it right.

Cut it out with a cut off wheel since my plasma just won't do 3/16. (I know what I am asking for this Christmas!)

Then used the Swag metal break to try to get it close to the original bend.

I realized that I got the bend a bit too far away from the top. Oops. Oh well. It's just metal. Tacked it in anyway and will just fix the gap later. It was hot today - no AC in the shop.

I plan on eventually building a good rear expo style bumper with a proper tire swing out. I do not really care for the one that attaches to the body and latched at the deck lid.

Thu Aug 08, 2024 5:53 pm

Cut a small piece on the band saw to fill the gap. Good enough for me. This bumper has a serious twist.

Sun Aug 11, 2024 5:24 pm

Made great progress today. I got almost everything wired.
I lack my fuel pump my horn ground and pretty much all the heater wiring. Whew. It was long day.
I need to figure out a courtesy light. There is not one in the car at all but I do have a plug for one!

Mon Aug 12, 2024 11:58 am

Dang!
My rear brake master hose is leaking. ](*,) Guess it is time to call on Thing Parts again.

Tue Aug 13, 2024 7:36 pm

I thought today was the day.
Got the last couple required items buttoned up in the electrical and gave it a bump. First I realized I had the ignition wire not correctly hooked to terminal 50 at the starter. That was a silly error and corrected easily.

But also blew both end fuses Grr. I had headlights but no marker lights. Left rear tail light but not right (think this is burned out bulb or a bulb connection issue.) Reverse lights worked, dash lights work. Generator and oil lights illuminate.
Checked the connections at the ignition and turn signal switch and bench tested the 4 way switch and flasher thanks to the JBugs video. All of it worked. Hooked it all back up. Now no headlights, no markers and I blow the far right fuse when I try the 4ways and the far left when I try a signal light. (I am typing this to try to figure out where my short is without ripping it all apart.)

I have a Power Probe so I am going to start looking for a short to ground in the cheap repro fender lights first, then headlights, and then bench test the headlight switch as well as the dimmer relay (which is a weathered mess.)

But the engine turned so that is a huge plus.
I am out of 8amp fuses and my wife ordered 80. Clearly she has full confidence in my troubleshooting ability.

While I wait for those, I plan on doing an oil change to include pulling the sump and putting in all new gaskets (I have full flow.) Turns out the full flow system uses the same filter as my 1973 FJ40 Landcruiser so I have a plethora of those. I will also put the repaired rear bumper back on which will require some welding repairs. Then finally put on the Empi muffler. (A temp fix until I can get an appropriate larger header for the 2000 engine.)

In other news, I have the new blue brake lines coming as well as a shifter bushing. That should be a fun job I prepared for by pulling off the front bumper which also needs repairs as well as significant repairs to the mounts since the originals were all ripped out and poorly weld repaired.

And the big one: We ordered all the AN fittings and stainless hoses from Summit to redo the entire fuel system (which I initially thought was intact.) That should be trick if I can pull it off. I have yet to ID the carbs. :? I remember back in the 80s when I was building Bugs I ran a Weber on one and a 34 Pict on another that I re-jetted. I always avoided the dual carbs as I thought they were too finicky to tune. Wellllll.....now is the time! Guess it is time I buy a snail meter.

\:D/

Wed Aug 14, 2024 4:23 pm

Will wonders never cease! Almost everything is working!
I spent the afternoon trouble shooting and discovered these connectors I used connected all 4 wires together - they were not just the double butt connectors! WTH!

So, no high beams. I think that problem is in the switch. It took me forever to figure out the horn wire to the steering wheel. Whew.

And then this happened:

Anyone have a source or do I need to swap back to OEM style? Looks like they are NLA. That blows. Trying not to blame her but the wife distracted me and I dropped it while removing the last screw. So sucky.

But the juice is flowing so I have that going for me.

Thu Aug 15, 2024 4:53 am

Quote: Anyone have a source or do I need to swap back to OEM style? Looks like they are NLA.

I once thought that I really wanted a set of those low-profile taillights until I realized that they provide no side-to-side visibility at night. The original "elephant foot" taillights are big and chunky but they are also visible from the side and therefore also serve as rear side markers when driving at night.

Thu Aug 15, 2024 7:39 am

wbailey2112 wrote: Quote: Anyone have a source or do I need to swap back to OEM style? Looks like they are NLA.

I once thought that I really wanted a set of those low-profile taillights until I realized that they provide no side-to-side visibility at night. The original "elephant foot" taillights are big and chunky but they are also visible from the side and therefore also serve as rear side markers when driving at night.
You make an excellent point that had not even crossed my mind. I had considered changing them back bacause I prefer the original look but was not going to spend the money yet since I still am unsure of the condition of the engine and tranny. When I realized the lenses were NLA my comment was that the damage made.my.mind up for me!

Thu Aug 15, 2024 11:59 am

Took a break to mow and then prep for tomorrowxs colonoscopy - lucky me.
But look what Mr. Brown shorts brought!

One fitting was backordered from Summit. Rats.
That's okay. Plenty to do.

Fri Aug 16, 2024 3:16 pm

Extree fuses and the Holley low pressure fuel pressure regulator showed up today so.really plenty to do.
But nothing else happened yesterday or today but I got a clean bill of health from my colonoscopy - so I've got that going for me!

Sat Aug 17, 2024 12:10 pm

Had a few minutes today to mess around.
Fixed a ground.
Pulled the oil drain plate.
I do not know about this:

I do not think a plastic screen jambed up in the oil pickup tube is a great idea.

For those of you with a deep sump and full flow, do you guys run a stock oil screen in your deep sump?

Seems like some extra insurance. I remember finding dead bugs and even washers in mine years ago during oil changes.

I discovered a couple of the M6 studs bent so I need to source a couple new ones. I am trying to decide if I am going to take the sump off and reseal it now or just wait and see if it is a problem. I plan on moving my oil filter up into the engine bay later so maybe adress it then.

Also, installed my impulse buy - a bunch of new brake backing plate plugs:

All the time I have for today. Folks coming over for drinks and dinner.

Sun Aug 18, 2024 10:23 am

Heiferman wrote:

For those of you with a deep sump and full flow, do you guys run a stock oil screen in your deep sump?

Seems like some extra insurance. I remember finding dead bugs and even washers in mine years ago during oil changes..

As usual, search is.a friend.
Looks like a split decision:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

I have a screen. I will remove that plastic garbage on the pickup tube and go ahead and put the screen in.

Mon Aug 19, 2024 10:32 am

But I guess if a screen will not fit it willnot be going in.

Mon Aug 19, 2024 10:39 am

I can't catch a break on parts lately. Got a bad spindle installed on mt Landcruiser (machined wrong), got a bad PS pump on my Ford, now this (clearly not copper crush washers):

Grrrr. Cheap chinese company BS.

Mon Aug 19, 2024 5:27 pm

This is that garbage that was on the pickup tube. Even looks partly clogged with som rtv or something.

Tue Aug 20, 2024 5:08 am

Heiferman wrote: I can't catch a break on parts lately. Got a bad spindle installed on mt Landcruiser (machined wrong), got a bad PS pump on my Ford, now this (clearly not copper crush washers):

Grrrr. Cheap chinese company BS.

This is really nothing new. Seems that all of the copper washers out there today, whether you're using them for your exhaust, or for your oil sump plate are just copper plated. I do not know of anyone selling actual copper washers.

Tue Aug 20, 2024 8:26 am

wbailey2112 wrote: Heiferman wrote: I can't catch a break on parts lately. Got a bad spindle installed on mt Landcruiser (machined wrong), got a bad PS pump on my Ford, now this (clearly not copper crush washers):

Grrrr. Cheap chinese company BS.

This is really nothing new. Seems that all of the copper washers out there today, whether you're using them for your exhaust, or for your oil sump plate are just copper plated. I do not know of anyone selling actual copper washers.
The Beck/Arnley seem to be copper. Non-magnetic and crush washers. I took a side by side pic but it does not appear on my phone. :?

The purpose of the copper is two fold: it will not gall when wetted, heated and subject to load or friction. The coper is soft enough to crush and make a seal. On the oil pan it has been my experience that galling is less of a problem than sealing so I would say using fiber washers or, though alminum is far more susceptible to galling, aluminum crush washers are probably a better choice than copper colored steel since that will properly crush to make a seal. Toyotas use either fiber or aluminum and readily available in aftermarket kits.