mkhanshaw |
Thu Jul 11, 2024 1:39 pm |
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I know there are many factors here. How big are the heads, the valve covers used, etc.
I am window shopping right now for my already-ran-through 54 (so purists can't get upset with my big-motor dreams). My car is rough. She has had some decent punches in her life and would be a long way from original.
Anyway, I want some more "kick" in the ass. I plan to swap the motor and transmission. Someone in its lifetime already put a 40hp in it, and a 40hp apron with the double arches.
Whatever I do, I intend to run an A1 Sidewinder with the enlarged Pea-shooters. Also a remote oil cooler and filter set up. I mention all this because we are talking about space considerations outside of normal dimensions.
(and of course a built transmission to handle it).
I was originally thinking 2110 but if I am having a reknown builder do the work....why not a 2332?
My question is - Could something as big as a 2332 fit? Like even if I did the smallest possible heads and valve covers (which...sigh).
I assume a 2110 would fit fine.
I just do not know and im out of my depth as its been years since i've messed with Beetles. Just curious to know what is possible on an early oval for motor size.
TIA |
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slayer61 |
Thu Jul 11, 2024 2:21 pm |
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Short rod motors, and "C" pistons |
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mkhanshaw |
Fri Jul 12, 2024 2:00 pm |
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slayer61 wrote: Short rod motors, and "C" pistons
Thank You for the reply. Ill look into that/ |
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74 Thing |
Fri Jul 12, 2024 4:50 pm |
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Yes, you want it narrower from valve cover to valve cover (using C pistons helps) and you will most likely have to install the header after you bolt up the rest of the engine to the trans. |
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splitjunkie |
Sat Jul 13, 2024 10:43 am |
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While you're at it, replace the side shelves and the front lower firewall sheet metal where the front seal attaches with late model parts. You will also need to clearance the lower parts of the rear quarter panels right around the valve covers. You already have the later rear apron so you are good there.
This will give you basically the same configuration as any VW that came with a 1500/1600 engine. You should be able to pull the engine without pulling the headers or even heater boxes, should you choose to run them. I did this in a '60 I had many years ago and it worked great. The donor shelves and lower firewall were out of a '69, but anything '67 or later should work. |
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74 Thing |
Sat Jul 13, 2024 2:09 pm |
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Good tips-and while you are at it install some weber windows so you can get to the carb adjustments and plugs. |
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mkhanshaw |
Sat Jul 13, 2024 4:09 pm |
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Fantastic tips guys! I will source all the stuff, plus put in the "Weber Windows" as I remember seeing that! Smart idea for adjustments! |
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VW_Jimbo |
Sat Jul 13, 2024 11:07 pm |
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While you are modifying the body. Spend some time incorporating a Kafer bar to hold the horns in place! No reason to modify all that stuff and still kill the transmission with out of control hopping! |
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mkhanshaw |
Mon Jul 15, 2024 2:42 pm |
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VW_Jimbo wrote: While you are modifying the body. Spend some time incorporating a Kafer bar to hold the horns in place! No reason to modify all that stuff and still kill the transmission with out of control hopping!
Thank you! Never heard of it until right this moment. This looks like the hot set up https://www.coolrydes.com/the-stiffy---kafer-bar-system.html |
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