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Sat Jul 27, 2024 2:38 pm

56

Having some trouble with gear box and rear end angles. Hoping these photos may show something to someone. Transmission seems to be sitting about 1.5-2 inches too high where it meets the firewall, which doesn't allow the front tin to seal properly, the accelerator cable to pass through the tin properly, etc.

The rear wheels seem to have too much camber and if the transmission came down a bit I feel that would solve that problem also.

The rear right wheel also looks to be angled in towards the front ... Like a toe in.

And the rear engine tin seems a touch high, although it does accept the seal, but it's tight and slightly raised, especially on the right side.

This was a pan off rebuild and I did my best to fit everything before welding in new sections. I'm leaning more towards a transmission mount/angle issue than a body needing to be raised solution ... But I'm a bit stumped.

Sat Jul 27, 2024 6:12 pm

Sooooo
I see the issues, and have questions.
The # on the trans is early 56, is it original to the car?
Was the car hit in the rear, or were panels replaced?
I see the forward engine tin, is not seated correctly on the case flange, what's going on there? The hook should be over the case, and the tin in front, and it seats against the engine seal. Hard to say, but there may be more room than I'm used to seeing between the axle boot and the frame horn..
How much too high is it? 10mm I guess from pics, or more?

Sat Jul 27, 2024 7:25 pm

Yes, I'd say about 10mm too high ... At least.

So much was replaced on this car. One section at a time, measured up to whatever was remaining of the original section, as meticulous in fitting everything together as I could be.

Transmission is not original to the car, but as a 56 it should be period correct and fit, right? I went through a lot of trouble to get the proper hockey stick and nose cone, so those shouldn't be an issue.

I don't think the car has been hit. There was no evidence of that in the body itself and when I put the floor pans in I inspected the frame as well as I could and everything appeared to be straight.

Maybe I don't have that front tin seated right? I'll have to look for photos. I thought that was the way it went in. I put that piece of foam along the back of it just in case I couldn't get the rubber seal over it ... A short term deal to keep the engine compartment sealed up.

One other thing to add. The torsion bars were out and although I think I have them close, I can't say I'm confident that they are positioned properly. I believe that could be causing the right wheel to have the toe in that it does.

Sat Jul 27, 2024 9:03 pm

I loosened up the rear body to pan bolts and was able to get 3/8 inch shims between the shock/body mount. I'm much closer to being able to get that front tin in properly now. If I can raise it another 1/8 inch I think I'll be good. Will try tmrw.

I believe my rear wheels issue is torsion bar/spring plate related. I need a good video and proper angle gauge to get those set up properly. I'll read the shop manual as well.

Sat Jul 27, 2024 9:50 pm

As the wheel travels down it gets toe’d in. Later spring plates have slotted bolt holes so you have some adjustment

Sat Jul 27, 2024 11:00 pm

Have you driven the car yet, or is this how it still sits while you make assessments?

This looks very (positively) cambered right here, it's impossible to make any assessment of what's happening with the rear suspension heights or alignment in this state. You need to drive it first, with full weight in the rear. And when you do bring it to rest on a level surface to measure height from the ground, don't back up or use reverse gear, just stop while rolling forward and park.

Sun Jul 28, 2024 6:30 am

In the past few years I have had several bugs where the engine did not fit well into the surrounding sheetmetal, and it has been a real struggle to get them all straight. That said, what I learned applies to all of them.
First, the sheet metal on the rear of these is soft. It doesn't take much to distort it all one way or the other, which is frustrating when it doesn't go your way. BUT, it does make moving it back into position possible without a frame rack. Even though you can be meticulous aligning all the replacement panels, when you bolt the fenders on it pulls the sides just so, and when you bolt it tight to the pan it torques the body another way and things move..
I would put the car somewhere that I could strap it down by the frame horns, and then put some blocks under the bumper mounts and carefully jack up from there. Pay attention and see what moves. Best case, you can see that the rear can be slightly bent up, or at least see what needs to be changed to make it possible. Check door alignment when doing this too, as it can change as things move..
Second, the frame horns can be tweaked. I've done it, you put the car on a trailer and strap the torsion housing down and the ends of the frame horns, and put a jack in between. Not for the faint of heart, and you need to take a lot of before and during measurements..
Lastly, all the little things you can change without bending anything stack up and might get you fixed. Modify the engine mount carrier to get an extra few mm.Moving the bolts sounds easy but is actually a pain in the ass, so the last one I did we just cut the top off and welded it back on. Whatever the thickness of the cutoff wheel was what it dropped the engine, about 3mm. Shimming the rear mounts is good too. Did you replace those when doing the body repair?
And, spend some time with the rear torsion bars and get it a little lower, you'll see the axles get less toe in when you do. It's a fight though once the shocks and brakes are on.. ugh.
Good luck!

Sun Jul 28, 2024 7:07 am

If the 3/8 shim made it better and all you need is another 1/8 then find 1/2” rubbers and try it. I think this has been talked about before so it’s not anything new. Take your time, you’ll get there. Sometimes it just takes a little bit of time to get your mind to come up with the solution.

Sun Jul 28, 2024 11:25 am

Thank you kindly. It's good know that things still move once fully mounted and bolted down, so maybe I can go a little easy on myself.

You all gave me some great tips to move forward and yes, you're right ....sometimes you just need to pause and wrap.your mind around the problem before taking steps forward.

I'll be back with some updates and photos of this almost finished but I've been restoring for 2+ years.

And yes, it hasn't been driven yet so I'm gonna move forward with getting it on the road and then working out kinks from there ✌️

Sun Jul 28, 2024 2:30 pm

The transmission mounts can cause this to happen as well. You might try loosening the mounting bolts and wiggling the engine/transmission assembly. You would be amazed at how much it can be moved!

Additionally, I have had incorrect, mismatched, and just plain wrong mounts sold and shipped to me. Might be worth double checking those!

Sun Jul 28, 2024 5:38 pm

Here's a photo of the body mount shims I put in on each side and the front piece of tin, which isn't perfect, but it's much much better.

Transmission mounts ... Hmm ... The cradle mounts fit 52-72 so those must be correct.

As for the front mount, this is the one I have: https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22964159-front-t...56-59.html

Sun Jul 28, 2024 6:11 pm

What did those large spacers do to the door gaps? Any changes?

What do the rubber pads at the front beam look like? You might have to pull the gas tank to get a good look.

Mon Jul 29, 2024 1:23 pm

Door gaps look great! I loosened the rear 3 body to pan bolts and of course the ones under the seat. My passenger door actually needed the rear gap closed a touch and I think this helped.

Front rubber mounts are new.

Actually just got it running today for the first time!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/q7ogKW7HkDdw6bzf8

Mon Jul 29, 2024 1:44 pm

Awesome! Nice start up! Sounded as good as they can over a digital video!

You could try your old rubber pads, up front to see if pulling the nose down helps those exhaust cutouts. But it may make your door gaps change as well as the striker plate engagement.

Sounded really good!

Mon Jul 29, 2024 6:12 pm

baby steps man! You'll get it!