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Thu Aug 01, 2024 10:01 am

I was out cruising yesterday enjoying a ride in a stock Beetle when my Beetle died. I tried to turn on the car with the ignition switch but nothing. I popped the clutch and it tried to run so I popped the clutch again. I had to park on the side of the road. I let it sit a little while and tried to start, but nothing happened when I turned the key. I noticed my headlights were on so I shut them off. I tried the horn and turn signals nothing. Luckily, an older man (Vet) came to my rescue and towed my car to my driveway. Before you ask, Battery is good, fuses good, oil good, gas almost full, head lights and tail lights work. The ignition switch, blinkers and horn are no longer getting power. I have checked the wires all are tight and it is a new wiring harness so no corrosion. Anyone have any idea what happened. I have owned VWs since the 70s and never had this happen before.

Thu Aug 01, 2024 10:19 am

If we're talking about the '59 in your photo gallery and the car is wired per the stock diagram, then the most likely cause is the thick red wire running from terminal 30 of the headlight switch down to the fuse block has come loose or otherwise lost connection. Use of a meter or trouble light to verify that power is no longer getting between those two points should verify if this is the cause.

Thu Aug 01, 2024 10:22 am

You don't say what year, but early '60s beetles are similar, so use this as an example:

The ignition circuit is not fused; however the wire trail from the battery to the coil takes a long and non-intuitive path, including connections to the fusebox terminals.

1. Regulator to headlight switch (thick red, terminal 30).
2. Headlight switch to passenger side fusebox tab. (thick red, terminal 30).
3. Fusebox tab (the same one as #2) to ignition switch (thick red, terminal 30).
4. Ignition switch to driver side end fusebox tab (black wire from terminal 15/54).
5. Fusebox tab (same terminal as #4) to coil (black to main harness to engine bay)

Note that the connections AT the fusebox do NOT pass current THROUGH the fuses. In this case, those tabs are only serving as handy terminal junctions.

Since your headlights work, we know #1 is ok.
Check the rest one by one with a VOM or test light, keeping mind:
- red wires mentioned above (#2 & #3) should have power all the time.
- black wires above (#4 & #5) should have power ONLY when the ignition switch is in the run position.

Report back what you find.

Thu Aug 01, 2024 8:30 pm

WOW!!!! Thank you mukluk, I had checked everything and then went back out to the car after reading your post. I checked that wire and just looking at it it looked plugged in because it is behind the wiper mechanism. I moved that wire and it was loose. I would have never thought to check the headlight switch since the headlights were working. I plugged it back in and felt the connector was still a little loose so I crimped it down a bit went in the car turned the key and it worked along with the turn signals and horn. If I ever see you at a bug show I owe you a beer. Thanks a bunch!!!!!!! :shock: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Thu Aug 01, 2024 8:32 pm

Thanks KTPhil I see you also spoke about the 30 wire to headlight switch. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Fri Aug 02, 2024 9:36 am

Glad to help. Now that you know the crimp quality on the new harness may not be the best, it might be a good idea to set aside some time to check for other loose terminals on at least the important circuits.

Sat Aug 03, 2024 9:58 pm

I know I will have to now my windshield wipers are not working. I am glad I talked to you I was ready to order another new ignition switch.

Mon Aug 05, 2024 8:40 am

Gently tighten any that are loose, and get some heat shrink tubing to put over the female ends of any live or ignition-switched wires, for safety.