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  View original topic: How often do you tune up your 36 horse?
OldBeetles Tue Dec 03, 2024 7:27 am

I think mine has about 2000 miles on it since last tune up and still running great. What is everybody getting on their tuneups before it's time to do again?

The more specifics the better, like how often points, plugs, wires, condenser, adjustments, etc.

zerotofifty Tue Dec 03, 2024 8:34 am

oil change at 3000 miles, tune up including valve adjust at 6000 miles. I always adjust valve, set point gap (or replace points), timing, gap clean or replace plugs before carb adjust
Condensers I find last a really long time, dont replace them often, only if I find points going bad quickly I clean the cap and rotor, only replace if looking worn or damaged. I ohm test the high tension wires, and replace if they is bad

KTPhil Tue Dec 03, 2024 8:46 am

3000 miles is a good baseline once you have the engine sorted. Everything gets checked: valves, points, inspect the rotor, timing, carb adjustment. Oil gets changed.

With unleaded gas I figure plugs every other tune-up for cleaning and gapping. I lube the axle and adjust the brakes at that time as well.

About every two years (24K miles) the points and plugs are worn and get replaced. I leave the condenser alone.

Eric&Barb Tue Dec 03, 2024 10:46 am

AUG1960 owners manual:



For the most part ignore the first far left column, that was for when the VW was brand new and came back into the dealership for the very first 300 mile checkup. Though do use it if you do a rebuild of the engine and/or the rest of the VW.

Use a dwell meter to check the points gap. The .016" points gap is only for just getting it running. Have found need more like .008" gap to be in the correct dwell range. Nice thing about using the dwell meter is one can often can go between 20,000 to 30,000 miles between touching the points. Once out of the proper dwell range points need to be sanded flat before adjusting again or replaced. Do not sand points while in the distributor, the sanding grit that breaks loose is not good for the workings inside there.

Definitely check and adjust valve lash every 3,000 miles or risk burning up a valve. Taking off a head to have it fixed and reinstalled takes a lot more time and $$ than just checking/adjusting valves.

zerotofifty Tue Dec 03, 2024 11:58 am

For valves, I keep a record of the pre-adjustment values. For a good engine, I get very little change in the setting over 6000 miles. However some engine do have a more significant movement in that mileage, so they get more frequent checking.

KEEP A DETAILED VALVE ADJUSTMENT RECORD. This will help nip problems in the bud, and help you know when you should check the valves.

I have a dwell meter and when I set point gap to 0.16 inch, the dwell is right.

The ideal thing is electronic points, they remain correct all the time. set and forget, for sure I do check the timing as other things may shift timing, but never need to adjust the timing with electronic points. The timing remains optimal the entire tune up period rather than gradually decay as standard points wear. electronic points are a real nice upgrade. I use pertronix points in many of my VWs, Porsches.

OldBeetles Tue Dec 03, 2024 12:35 pm

Thanks for all the feedback. I think I may have a dwell meter in the garage, but woudl have to check. Based on all the 3000 to 6000 mile feedback, it's not as maintenance intensive as I remember. My main driver (a '65) when I was in college seemed to need tuned like every 1000 miles, but then again I may not be remembering that correctly.

As it stands, I am probably good on the tune up for a couple years since I will probably only drive it about 500 miles a year.

zerotofifty Tue Dec 03, 2024 5:03 pm

OldBeetles wrote: Thanks for all the feedback. I think I may have a dwell meter in the garage, but woudl have to check. Based on all the 3000 to 6000 mile feedback, it's not as maintenance intensive as I remember. My main driver (a '65) when I was in college seemed to need tuned like every 1000 miles, but then again I may not be remembering that correctly.

As it stands, I am probably good on the tune up for a couple years since I will probably only drive it about 500 miles a year.

Oil should be changed yearly if you do only 500 miles a year. I certainly would not go six years. Oil can become corrosive with products of combustion. Many short drives where in as the engine does not get fully warmed up can also be detrimental to the oil, and result in corrosion in the cylinder and exhaust (muffler) as water will condense on the cool surfaces, and if the surfaces dont get a chance to heat up, water will collect. water is a product of combustion

If stored for the winter season, do a last run on the highway for 20 miles or so to get everything good and hot before storage for winter. An oil change is also prudent prior to the last drive prior to long term storage

also dont forget brake fluid flushing ever few years, regardless of miles driven, nor frequent in humid climates than dry. If you keep the fluid fresh, your brake system can last for decades without rust issues. Forget to flush the fluid and you can end up with expensive brake repairs or even death!!!!!

Helfen Tue Dec 03, 2024 6:20 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: AUG1960 owners manual:



For the most part ignore the first far left column, that was for when the VW was brand new and came back into the dealership for the very first 300 mile checkup. Though do use it if you do a rebuild of the engine and/or the rest of the VW.

Use a dwell meter to check the points gap. The .016" points gap is only for just getting it running. Have found need more like .008" gap to be in the correct dwell range. Nice thing about using the dwell meter is one can often can go between 20,000 to 30,000 miles between touching the points. Once out of the proper dwell range points need to be sanded flat before adjusting again or replaced. Do not sand points while in the distributor, the sanding grit that breaks loose is not good for the workings inside there.

Definitely check and adjust valve lash every 3,000 miles or risk burning up a valve. Taking off a head to have it fixed and reinstalled takes a lot more time and $$ than just checking/adjusting valves.

Rubbing blocks are not the same material as the old type, I recommend checking the block and make sure the distributor cam has sufficient cam grease every 3,000 miles-just takes a second.

my59 Tue Dec 03, 2024 8:00 pm

The 59's stock engine has over 170k miles on it and has never been rebuilt. I have all the receipts back to dealers sale slip. I credit the longevity to him following the owners manual concerning oil changes....and driving the car at a max speed of 55, 60 mph when on the highway.

OldBeetles Fri Dec 06, 2024 8:37 am

The prior owner kept up on brake fluid changes and I intend to do the same. I'm sort of fanatic about periodic brake fluid changes.

As far as warming up the oil, I make sure to do that every trip, driving for at least 20 minutes. Annual oil changes will definitely be done, even if less than 500 miles. I know the prior owner did the same.

Yes, I almost forgot about the cam grease, but it looks fresh for now.

OldBeetles Fri Dec 06, 2024 8:37 am

my59 wrote: The 59's stock engine has over 170k miles on it and has never been rebuilt. I have all the receipts back to dealers sale slip. I credit the longevity to him following the owners manual concerning oil changes....and driving the car at a max speed of 55, 60 mph when on the highway.

This is awesome! I've heard the 36HP is pretty robust with proper maintenance.

wcfvw69 Fri Dec 06, 2024 11:11 am

zerotofifty wrote: oil change at 3000 miles, tune up including valve adjust at 6000 miles. I always adjust valve, set point gap (or replace points), timing, gap clean or replace plugs before carb adjust
Condensers I find last a really long time, dont replace them often, only if I find points going bad quickly I clean the cap and rotor, only replace if looking worn or damaged. I ohm test the high tension wires, and replace if they is bad

^^ this.

I think people change tune up parts far too soon. I know folks who daily drive their VW's and put 20k plus a year on them. They adjust their points every 3k miles if needed. They'll run the points 10k no problem as they keep the points cams lubed. They also don't throw out condensers every tune up. They'll run them for years or until they see the points faces start to burn. I know folks with 75k miles on their distributor caps and rotors.
These are old cars that need lots of PM maintenance. Just looking over everything in the engine compartment at 3k miles can show you when you should start replacing items like fuel hose, spark plug wires, plugs, etc.
Valve adjustments at 3k are quick and easy and necessary. I change the oil at 3k as well.

OldBeetles Sat Dec 07, 2024 4:11 pm

I remember doing the valve adjustments on my '65 when I was in college. Was definitely an easy job to do and keeps the engine healthy.

tasb Sun Dec 08, 2024 7:46 am



My 1957 Kombi gets something less than 1000 miles per year. The oil is changed yearly. At the same time the valve lash is verified. The dwell is checked and rarely needs adjustment on the Garbe Lahmeyer distributor. The cap and rotor are cleaned and have been in continuous use for more than ten years. I check the fuel lines. The condenser is date stamped August 1957 and is still fine, but I do carry a spare. The gaskets on the governor have leaked on occasion and need to be tightened since it makes for hard starting due to a vacuum leak.



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