TheSamba.com :: View topic - Looks can be deceiving: A 1954 Beetle Build Thread

Tue Feb 18, 2025 3:28 pm

Hello All -

I have posted questions here and there but have never really "posted" about the car I have and trying to build.

The truth of the matter is I thought I was buying a car that would not require a complete re-do.

Well....as the thread title says.

Quick (hopefully) story -

Im 51 years on the planet, and I had a few Beetles back in the day. My first car was a 1970 Standard Beetle. It was my grandmothers since new. I got it in 1988 and it had seen better days. After new paint, interior and a dual carb 1835 bolted to a Rhino-cased performance trans... I gave my buddy's 6 cyl Mustang a run for its money.

Fast forward - Ive always loved VDubs...and thought one day again i'd venture into the pool. Last year June I made it happen. I bought this 1954 Semaphore'd ribbed-door and heart-taillighted cutie home with me from my hometown in SoCal to where I am now (Paso Robles, California). It ran ok, the interior done(ish), semaphores worked but it needed what I thought was *some* TLC.

Well.... Upon closer inspection it needed more. Quite a bit more. At some point in its history it had been hit front and back...maybe the same accident. The framehead was damaged on one side but the car sat so low I could not see the damage at time of purchase. Lesson learned. The pan had some swiss cheese to it but nothing bad at all from a few feet away.

I thought I could just get away with a battery area patch panel and have the framehead damage fixed as it sat.

I don't know what got into me but I decided to just go full force into a resto-mod. Tear the body off the pan.

Im glad I did. The framehead was holding on with one side weld. It was broken free of the spine hump. The pan rust was worse than anticipated and the heater channels are in dire straights.

Right now, I have the pan at Washburn Metal in Orange, Ca for a full rejuvenation and upgrade. I am having the following done:

new pan floors installed
double-weld the entire pan
add IRS conversion brackets
add Inspection holes
add Dual AN-6 Fuel Lines
convert the e-brake adjustment to inside the car next to the handle like later models
Repair the framehead (duh)
Install seat belt mounts
Install a billet e-brake bracket
Run new Clutch and Throttle tubes
Powdercoat.

The body is currently on the dolly you see, but at the end of March I have someone else (hopefully) lined up to do the heather channel work as well. He is local and revered by people I know. Crossing fingers he comes through. I have others ready to call and were equally revered but lets see where we get.

Out of sight, I have a new Oldspeed front end with a 4" narrow, 5x130 pattern and Wilwood discs ready to attach to the pan. I also bought a host of new fasteners for the chassis and pan stuff...all 12 point Titanium for fun.

I just bought a new Steering Box from @heimlich on here and its on the way. Next is the rear disc brake kit from Oldspeed to match (5x130, Wilwood).

Next month - start the motor build with someone I selected. My plan is a 2110 Fuel Injected motor with all the bells and whistles

When the pan is back, assembly of the pan items (new pedal assembly, Wilwood master cylinder, etc, IRS Arms).

Simultaneously - New Rancho Trans etc.

I may not get to paint until later this year. After that I have a new wire harness to install, and then all the little things.

Not sure how often this will get updated but I will update.

Tue Feb 18, 2025 3:51 pm

Sorry to hear of your buying a nice looking car and then find this many issues.
The good news is now you know everything about it and the car will be awesome when you are done.
And a '54 is a great car to have!
Best of luck!

Tue Mar 18, 2025 9:55 pm

Metal Work Updates!

The heater channels were semi-bunk. They were rotten toward the rear of the car but strangely good by the door support / A Pillar area, so no need to replace everything. I went with Jason at Buswerks in San Luis Obispo California near me and he did not disappoint. He also installed my "Weber Windows" in the rear fender wells. This will allow me ease of maintenance on my future dual carb motor. Spark plug changes will be a breeze!

Just look at all that rust coming out the bottom...eeassh!

Tue Mar 18, 2025 10:01 pm

Pan Updates!

So full disclosure - the photos you are about to see are either my pan or a 52 split that is having the exact same things done to it at Washburn Metal. It was not clear to me whose the photos were taken of.

The pan will most likely be done in the next few weeks and I cannot wait!

What you are looking at is a) moving the shifter position 3" back closer to the driver, b) Adding Torsion Adjusters to the Rear of the car so I can select the drop from inside the car vs clocking the spring plates. The pan is also getting an IRS conversion, clutch tube relocation to the passenger side so I can run 58-66 Pedals with my Wilwood dual master cylinder, dual AN-6 fuel lines, Seat belt bosses, and a host of other things.

All of these ideas are from a well-known VW guy I highly respect and I am glad I consulted with.

Tue Mar 18, 2025 10:05 pm

Steering Updates

I spent some time refinishing the Steering Shaft. I made a tube out of PVC, put a cap on one end and soaked the shaft in Evaporust. I then hit it with an air tool to clean it up...and then finally clearcoat to prevent rust again

I also purchased a fresh late model steering box from VWNOS (Marcel on here) to use with my Oldspeed narrowed front end. Very excited! His quality is top-notch

Wed Mar 19, 2025 11:17 am

mkhanshaw wrote: Pan Updates!
All of these ideas are from a well-known VW guy I highly respect and I am glad I consulted with.

Yeah he does great work, super cool guy too ....
You going to have him build a motor also ?

Wed Mar 19, 2025 11:37 am

56Cabrio wrote: mkhanshaw wrote: Pan Updates!
All of these ideas are from a well-known VW guy I highly respect and I am glad I consulted with.

Yeah he does great work, super cool guy too ....
You going to have him build a motor also ?

When I talked with him, he did tell me about whom he has build motors and they are on my short list.

Im pretty revved up on Chico though in Arcadia Ca. I am originally a SGV guy and Chico's been around for many years putting out quality. He really impressed me as im now 3+ hours away and he waited around for me before going somewhere just to talk to me in person, show me the shop, get a quote, etc.

He didnt come off as someone to money grab. By example, I thought I wanted hydraulic lifters in my motor. He asked how often i'd drive the car and I told him maybe every two or three weeks. He recommended against it because thats time for the oil to drain back out of the lifters and over time cause issues. I also thought I wanted a 2332 and he was able to convince me that a 2110 with head work would do what I need etc...and his 2332 builds are more.

In the next few weeks when I go get my pan from Brian, I am going to also stop by Rancho and order a performance trans.

Sat Mar 29, 2025 12:20 pm

[quote="mkhanshaw"]Pan Updates!

What you are looking at is a) moving the shifter position 3" back closer to the driver, b) Adding Torsion Adjusters to the Rear of the car so I can select the drop from inside the car vs clocking the spring plates. The pan is also getting an IRS conversion, clutch tube relocation to the passenger side so I can run 58-66 Pedals with my Wilwood dual master cylinder, dual AN-6 fuel lines, Seat belt bosses, and a host of other things.

All of these ideas are from a well-known VW guy I highly respect and I am glad I consulted with.

I don't see how you will be able to adjust the rear torsion bars from inside the car. Maybe I am missing something? I like the idea.

Marty

Sat Mar 29, 2025 12:48 pm

[quote="motomwo"] mkhanshaw wrote: Pan Updates!

What you are looking at is a) moving the shifter position 3" back closer to the driver, b) Adding Torsion Adjusters to the Rear of the car so I can select the drop from inside the car vs clocking the spring plates. The pan is also getting an IRS conversion, clutch tube relocation to the passenger side so I can run 58-66 Pedals with my Wilwood dual master cylinder, dual AN-6 fuel lines, Seat belt bosses, and a host of other things.

All of these ideas are from a well-known VW guy I highly respect and I am glad I consulted with.

I don't see how you will be able to adjust the rear torsion bars from inside the car. Maybe I am missing something? I like the idea.

Marty
You need to scroll up Marty. He's modifying the torsion bar housing so it's adjustable from under the rear seat.

I hope you're doing well there in East Oregon. Take care.

Sat Mar 29, 2025 1:30 pm

Hey Perry,
Doing good over here in Eastern Oregon.

I was trying to picture this in my pea brain head and I thought the adjusting bolts have to face toward the bottom of the pan due to the weight of the car and direction of force on the spring plates/adjusting lever arms. Everything I have seen when this type of adjuster is installed the adjustment bolts are accessed from under the car.
If it can be made to be able to adjust from inside the car that would be great.

Marty

Tue Apr 01, 2025 2:42 pm

motomwo wrote: Hey Perry,
Doing good over here in Eastern Oregon.

I was trying to picture this in my pea brain head and I thought the adjusting bolts have to face toward the bottom of the pan due to the weight of the car and direction of force on the spring plates/adjusting lever arms. Everything I have seen when this type of adjuster is installed the adjustment bolts are accessed from under the car.
If it can be made to be able to adjust from inside the car that would be great.

Marty

Hi Marty! The pan is almost complete so when I pick it up, I will take clear pictures so it makes sense. Perry is right in that it will adjust under the rear seat.

Some updates without pictures:
- Ordered my IRS Transaxle (Rancho Performance)
- Ordered my narrowed IRS arms and axles
- Purchased the Wilwood Rear Brake kit

Tue Apr 01, 2025 4:19 pm

The pictures would be great! Thank you in advance!

Marty

Tue Apr 08, 2025 12:32 pm

Wiring DONE!

https://youtu.be/4qnYyX3dBbc

Mon Apr 14, 2025 9:02 am

Will the seat belt mounts be welded to the vertical sides of the center tunnel such as on '62 and later Beetles, as well as a reinforced mount on the outer edges of the pan? Will you also have a 3rd mount welded to the body so that you can use 3-pint belts?

When I modified my Dec. '52 Beetle body for safety belts over 30 years ago, I had chiseled out the B-pillar shoulder belt mounting plate from inside the B-pillar on a '74 parts Beetle. It's a long approx. 1/8" thick metal plate approx. 6" long and 2" wide, that was curved to match the pillar. I positioned the plate so that the weld nut was just below the semaphore box, drilled a round hole in the pillar below the bottom of the semaphore box which was large enough to fit the plate's weld nut, then had my welder do a continuous weld all around the plate onto the B-pillar. The plate was thereby on the interior-facing surface of the pillar, and was covered over by the factory padding on the B-pillar vinyl. Its height was not as high as on a '68+ Beetle but still had the protection of the 3rd belt. Would be similar height to the factory nut on '62-'65 just below the side window bottom line.

Have you considered replacing your H apron with a later one (e.g., '62+) so that you can fit your 2110 cc engine much easier? I had a '56 Beetle 35 years ago that had a 1300 engine, and even that was a bear to remove and install with the body's H apron. That '52 I had already had a replacement later apron and it was much easier to install a larger engine because of it. The top edge of the later apron is a few inches lower than on the H, so that you can pull the engine rearwards a few inches more to clear the trans input shaft.

Wed Apr 23, 2025 7:28 pm

What happens to the e-brake after you move the shifter back?

Thu May 22, 2025 1:31 pm

motomwo wrote:

......Everything I have seen when this type of adjuster is installed the adjustment bolts are accessed from under the car.
If it can be made to be able to adjust from inside the car that would be great.

Marty

@motomwo Aaaaand you were right, Marty! It is adjusted from the belly side with set screws, much like the torsion front! I was wrong :(

So - all: Here are some update photos. Got my pan back from Washburn metal. I cannot say enough great things about Brian and the crew! My pan is better than new with so many upgrades and mods!

@Rome - Yes, see the photos for the seat belt mounts that are now integrated into the 54 pan, and just lap belts is my goal:

And regarding the apron - I am actually having the original early apron without peashooter cutouts installed. I will modify the engine bay skirt metal and/or remove engine parts as needed to install and remove the motor.I was told 2110 is doable without metal cutting so we will see. Any larger and its an issue.

@badandy417@yahoo.com - RE: the ebrake - It remains where it is but you use a late model ebrake handle which is shorter.

Custom cables are being made as I am not longer using the rod-driven ebrake assembly.

Here are the rest of the photos:

Oh and ive ordered (and received) a custom Speedo/Tach from speedhut. The Speedo is GPS antenna driven. I did this because my Oldspeed narrowed front is a disc kitted piece without a cable drive.

Also pictured is my new Rancho transaxle I will be installing in the next week.

On order are my narrowed IRS arms, a "stiffy" kit to make the rear end more rigid for cornering and shortened chromoly axles.

Should be getting those at the end of the month.

Thu May 22, 2025 3:14 pm

Well dang it. I was hoping someone figured out how to make the rear torsions adjustable from the inside. Your pan looks so very nice! I can see this is going to be a quality build. Thank you very much for the follow up and keep up the good work and updates.

Marty