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Fri Mar 07, 2025 11:16 am

I have a 1967 bug that will not go into a gear when the motor is running.
If you turn motor off, it will go into any gear. I can put it in 1st gear, start motor, the car will move. If you try and shift it binds up, but there is no grinding noises. The clutch releases nicely and smoothly.
The pressure plate, clutch, throw out bearing, the arms supporting the T/O are all good. Bowden tube is in correct position.

The only thing I’ve found is a worn front shift rod bushing. It moves up and down about 3/8”. I know this can cause hard shifting, but will effect the shifting when the motor is running or not?

History…. Car was purchased without a motor. A good motor was installed and shifting issue was discovered. In the yard I’ve driven it in 1st gear and reverse if I turn motor off to select the gear.
Will putting in a new shift bushing fix my problem?
Thank you.

Fri Mar 07, 2025 11:33 am

I have never encountered the can't put it in gear with the engine running issue.
That said, it wouldn't hurt to change the shift rod bushing.

Make this tool to assist in getting the shift rod out and back in the tunnel.

Fri Mar 07, 2025 12:19 pm

67rustavenger wrote: I have never encountered the can't put it in gear with the engine running issue.
That said, it wouldn't hurt to change the shift rod bushing.

Make this tool to assist in getting the shift rod out and back in the tunnel.

Good idea!!

Fri Mar 07, 2025 3:30 pm

Will changing the shift bushing fix the issue where it won't go into gear with the engine running? Absolutely not. Doesn't mean it's not worth your while to fix that problem as well, but the shift rod bushing cannot cause your main problem.

When a transmission shifts easily into all gears with the engine off but will not do so with the engine running, the cause is the transmission input shaft is not disengaging from the spinning engine. This will be caused either by the clutch disc not releasing properly, or the input shaft is seized in the pilot bearing.

First course of action is to verify the clutch is in fact properly adjusted. If you're unsure if the clutch cable is tightened enough, try turning the adjustment nut(s) in at least five full turns to see if that makes a positive difference. If adjusting the clutch doesn't clear up your issue, then the engine needs to come out to inspect the clutch, TOB, cross shaft, and pilot bearing.

Fri Mar 07, 2025 4:20 pm

What makes you think the pressure plate is good?

I would try another one if possible.

Fri Mar 07, 2025 4:59 pm

Ragman…I assuming the P/P is good because it still looked new and when I drove the yard, car felt normal. I do have a new P/P . clutch disc, and T/O bearing. I just wasn’t convinced it was the issue, so I was looking for input before reassembling.

Mukluk….thank you for your informative input. I did play with different clutch adjustments with no positive charges. I will look at replacing the shift rod bushing, but wanted to isolate my first issue. When I removed the motor I really thought it was going to be a bent or cracked arm the T/O bearing rides on. I have a new clutch disc pressure plate, and bearing to go in on the reinstall. I bought it from a guy who put the motor in the car. He gave up on the project because of the current issue. Thanks again.

Fri Mar 07, 2025 7:18 pm

1967 bug; I assume your 200mm pressure plate DOES have a center ring, right?

Fri Mar 07, 2025 8:02 pm

Cusser wrote: 1967 bug; I assume your 200mm pressure plate DOES have a center ring, right?

Yes it does.

Sat Mar 08, 2025 12:29 am

When you start the car in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed does the car move? (e.g. you’ve confirmed the clutch is not frozen to the pressure plate?)

Sat Mar 08, 2025 12:19 pm

mukluk wrote: When a transmission shifts easily into all gears with the engine off but will not do so with the engine running, the cause is the transmission input shaft is not disengaging from the spinning engine. This will be caused either by the clutch disc not releasing properly, or the input shaft is seized in the pilot bearing.

First course of action is to verify the clutch is in fact properly adjusted. If you're unsure if the clutch cable is tightened enough, try turning the adjustment nut(s) in at least five full turns to see if that makes a positive difference. If adjusting the clutch doesn't clear up your issue, then the engine needs to come out to inspect the clutch, TOB, cross shaft, and pilot bearing.

This is what my first thought was, too! Drop the engine and have a look. It will not hurt anything and it may lead to other discoveries that need attention!

Sat Mar 08, 2025 12:56 pm

This happened to me with my 63 as well. I was getting it back together, fresh engine rebuild, new clutch..etc. Turns out the clutch disc was just a bit too thick. I bought another disc, problem solved. The new disc was just a bit thinner than the one I had. 18k miles later, still going strong. Just a thought

Sat Mar 08, 2025 2:41 pm

shano63 wrote: This happened to me with my 63 as well. I was getting it back together, fresh engine rebuild, new clutch..etc. Turns out the clutch disc was just a bit too thick. I bought another disc, problem solved. The new disc was just a bit thinner than the one I had. 18k miles later, still going strong. Just a thought

The spec for the disc is 7mm minimum thickness, if I remember that correctly. I can recall pulling out my 8mm wrench to check them when ever I would do a clutch job. There was a point back in the early 80s when an after market company was producing 8.5mm thick discs that would not release. It is a quick check. To be sure you could use a caliper to verify.

Sat Mar 08, 2025 3:15 pm

VW_Jimbo wrote: shano63 wrote: This happened to me with my 63 as well. I was getting it back together, fresh engine rebuild, new clutch..etc. Turns out the clutch disc was just a bit too thick. I bought another disc, problem solved. The new disc was just a bit thinner than the one I had. 18k miles later, still going strong. Just a thought

The spec for the disc is 7mm thick, if I remember that correctly. I can recall pulling out my 7mm wrench to check them when ever I would do a clutch job. There was a point back in the early 80s when an after market company was producing 8mm thick discs that would not release. It is a quick check. To be sure you could use a caliper to verify.

IIRC, minimum spec is 7mm while new is 8mm. Snug fit with an open end wrench measuring method works well (pic courtesy of Zundfolge1432's gallery).

Sat Mar 08, 2025 5:10 pm

mukluk wrote: VW_Jimbo wrote: The spec for the disc is 7mm thick, if I remember that correctly. I can recall pulling out my 7mm wrench to check them when ever I would do a clutch job.

IIRC, minimum spec is 7mm while new is 8mm.

I also remember checking disc thickness with my 7mm open end wrench, and that is the "replace now minimum thickness". I cannot remember ever measuring the thickness of a new clutch disc myself.

Sat Mar 08, 2025 7:03 pm

Cusser wrote: mukluk wrote: VW_Jimbo wrote: The spec for the disc is 7mm thick, if I remember that correctly. I can recall pulling out my 7mm wrench to check them when ever I would do a clutch job.

IIRC, minimum spec is 7mm while new is 8mm.

I also remember checking disc thickness with my 7mm open end wrench, and that is the "replace now minimum thickness". I cannot remember ever measuring the thickness of a new clutch disc myself.

I only did when they started being manufactured thicker than 8mm. Lots of cars came in, from DIY mechanics, on hooks due to “not able to be shifted.”

Sun Mar 09, 2025 9:23 am

Schnitzelfuss wrote: When you start the car in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed does the car move? (e.g. you’ve confirmed the clutch is not frozen to the pressure plate?)
Yes, the car will move in 1st and reverse. The launch is smooth too-no chatter.
The car was driven on and off a trailer with no issues.

Sun Mar 09, 2025 9:36 am

mukluk wrote: VW_Jimbo wrote: shano63 wrote: This happened to me with my 63 as well. I was getting it back together, fresh engine rebuild, new clutch..etc. Turns out the clutch disc was just a bit too thick. I bought another disc, problem solved. The new disc was just a bit thinner than the one I had. 18k miles later, still going strong. Just a thought

The spec for the disc is 7mm thick, if I remember that correctly. I can recall pulling out my 7mm wrench to check them when ever I would do a clutch job. There was a point back in the early 80s when an after market company was producing 8mm thick discs that would not release. It is a quick check. To be sure you could use a caliper to verify.

IIRC, minimum spec is 7mm while new is 8mm. Snug fit with an open end wrench measuring method works well (pic courtesy of Zundfolge1432's gallery).

I measured the clutch, 8mm has a bit of slop. 7mm won’t fit.
My 11/32nd wrench fit nicely over both the old and new clutch I bought.
New clutch is from CIP.

Mon Mar 24, 2025 7:17 pm

Update…..
I found the problem…clutch tube weld was broke. Welded her up, all good.