TheSamba.com :: View topic - 72 Type 3 Square

Sun Jul 06, 2025 1:17 pm

It's been a long time, but I think it's 9 ft lbs on the torque wrench side. Or it might be 18 ft lbs. I've slept since then. You could call CIP and see what they say, since they sell the tool.

Tue Jul 08, 2025 9:44 am

Type3Todd wrote: It's been a while since I've posted, so I thought I'd do a bit of an update.

I've purchased a battery and installed it, installed the exhaust that came with the car, verified all the fuel likes are good, and installed a fuel filter and gotten the engine running.

I've also completed the brake system rebuild and bled the brakes. I had quite a lot of difficulty to bleed them, and took a bit of research to find a technique that works.

I picked up the correct torque multiplier tool

from CIP, but the correct torque setting written on it isn't legible. What is the correct setting for it for the rear axle nuts?

After that the next order of business will be to install a set of new cv drive shafts that came with the car and get the car moving under it's own power.

These torque multipiers are tyipically 9 times the applied torque. Setting your torque wrench to 28 ft/lbs will get you there.

Mon Jul 14, 2025 8:27 pm

Thanks for the info.

It's been a while as we recently finished a major kitchen reno and I've been busy putting everything back together.

I was able to find the info about the tool from a different site:

A while back I posted about the pedal assembly having a broken hinge for the gas pedal. I ordered the bracket 111701535A and indeed it will work with the later pedal. I decided not to weld it to the floor, instead ground down the original hinge, drilled a couple of holes in it and the assembly and bolted them together. The reason for this is, it's like the original and the carpet doesn't need a hole in it for the bracket.

I've got the pedals installed and hooked up, however the gas pedal seems to be "notchy" so I think that some tweaks are in order for it.

One other thing I noticed is that when I was hooking up the clutch cable it was very tight. I had to unbolt the bowden tube to get the cable slack enough to allow the wingnut to go on. With the bowden tube bolted in place there is a fair amount of tension in the cable so that it's pulling on the clutch lever. There isn't any slack in the cable. Is this normal? I think in the manual it states that there should be about 1/2 inch of pedal movement. Does this mean slack in the cable, or the point at which the clutch starts to move?

This car is a conversion from auto to standard, so I wonder if the clutch cable is the wrong length. The cable looks to be new and I get the feeling it was never hooked up.

Fri Aug 15, 2025 5:07 pm

Got some rust repair done:

Took me the better part of a day to get the patch fitted and welded in.

Painted the pan, it’s amazing how much better it looks with a couple coats of paint.

Fri Aug 15, 2025 5:08 pm

There were some other small holes to fix. I didn’t take photos because it’s pretty much just the same thing again.

Sat Aug 16, 2025 9:23 am

Type3Todd wrote: There were some other small holes to fix. I didn’t take photos because it’s pretty much just the same thing again.

Before you paint the outside of them pan, you might want to put some seam sealer on it over the welds and gaps to help keep any water out. Just a thought.

Sat Aug 16, 2025 10:36 am

Hi Bob,

On the underside I painted it, then I sprayed it with thick rubberized truck bed liner. It filled in any voids from the welding. I'll put some seam sealer on the inside as additional insurance against leaks. It will also hide the boogery welds. :D

Sun Aug 17, 2025 12:26 pm

Type3Todd wrote: Hi Bob,

On the underside I painted it, then I sprayed it with thick rubberized truck bed liner. It filled in any voids from the welding. I'll put some seam sealer on the inside as additional insurance against leaks. It will also hide the boogery welds. :D

Keep in mind the carpet hides many sins. :wink:

Sun Aug 17, 2025 8:15 pm

True that lol.

Sun Aug 17, 2025 8:45 pm

Along with the car I got a couple of broken mirrors. Between the two of them I’ve got the parts to put together one good one. I’ve looked to find a diagram of how these bits fit together but there doesn’t seem to be one?

Can anyone tell me how to assemble these?

Mon Aug 18, 2025 12:32 pm

Type3Todd wrote: Along with the car I got a couple of broken mirrors. Between the two of them I’ve got the parts to put together one good one. I’ve looked to find a diagram of how these bits fit together but there doesn’t seem to be one?

Can anyone tell me how to assemble these?

The complete assembly abit broken is how it goes together. Keep in mind that not all mirror assemblies have the hex shape in them. Those that don't usually have a smooth taper that fits into a bottom part that also has a smooth taper on the inside. You could grind off the taper if you wanted to. Usually you have two of the smaller taper sleeve pieces that help wedge the shaft into the cone part (I don't know what the tech names are for the parts). Needless to say I've faked a mirror or two over the years. :wink: