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  View original topic: Wanted. Top ten upgrades for 1980 aircooled Vanagon.
johnboy Wed Jul 28, 2004 8:13 pm

I have a 1980 Vanagon Westfalia that is pretty much stock. It was parked for nearly a decade and I have dusted it off and am driving it around pretty much as it was new. You know, type 4 2.0 liter aircooled, fuel injected, 4 speed manual. I am asking what everyone would recommend as the top ten upgrades they would perform on this particular setup, whether it is performance or practical. Do I need a Pertronix electronic ignition? Is there a preferred tire size or manufacturer? Should I never leave the house without the dual battery setup (which it has)? I am looking to stretch the usable lifespan as well as modestly increase performance. What has technology improved in the last 24 years that will help old blue? :?:

TeamSpatula Thu Jul 29, 2004 5:00 am

Really, without a lot of money, the stock set-up is pretty good. Hopefully nothing got too crusty while sitting for that long. Depending on the mileage, you might want to start saving for another engine, or various FI parts as they go bad, but really if you keep that system in top running order it ought to be pretty good. Now if you've got money to burn, there are engine conversions and such, but that's a whole other ballgame.
Enjoy!

Randy in Maine Thu Jul 29, 2004 6:21 am

OK I will bite:

6 Ply Michelin LTX M/S tires
Petronics electronic ignition
New gas lines and vacuum lines EVERYWHERE
The good Mallory distributor
Hydraulic lifters adjusted every year or two
Fuel injectors cleaned and calibrated
Mobil 1 15-50 full synethic oil, Mahle filters only
Gas shocks all around
Gas tank removed, crud removed, hoses in there changed out, and the POR-15 treatment to the inside of the tank.

and finally,

breakfast served when camping in a really nice place. Dead Horse Point State Park or the equiv.

mightyart Thu Jul 29, 2004 6:58 am

Forget performace and think reliability, even if you could shave off 10 seconds, 0 to 60 in 17secs. is just sad. Think of this more as a turtle, slow and steady, he also has his house. So he can be as slow as he dam well pleases! (well that's how I feel anyway). You got luckly! not only with your camper, but an opportunity to have someone who knows his shit help you. I'm in Dallas and I've asked Colin(amskeptic) to come help me. he will be in the area 15-20 aug. I like his concept, he doesn't just fix stuff, he goes over stuff with you, and shows you what he's fixing ect. He'll even show you how to drive it to get the best results
and his price for 12hrs is very reasonable, go to the baywindow board and see what everybody say's about him. PM him and get on his list.
I want to be ready to camp by mid-sept. when it's cool enough to sleep.
The timing was perfect for me. Oh if it has A/C on it take that crap-off
Unless it still works (you more than likely own the only working example).
Mine was junk and extra weight, also made the bus run hotter.

weinerwagen Thu Jul 29, 2004 8:19 am

:oops: OIL COOLER!!! Did I say, OIL COOLER? Yeah, OIL COOLER!
They run great, albeit not like a watercooled, but has a tad more guts than my Diesels,

My 2.0's all run hot hot hot. You can feel the heat pouring out from under the van. You can imagine the pour arab oil!

Put a good external oil cooler on it, and yeah, good 6 ply tires.

Randy in Maine Thu Jul 29, 2004 6:07 pm

Oh yeah gauges (CHT, OT and OP) and a cooler (although a cooler is to be thought of as a band air as opposed to a cure for high oil temps). High OTs and/or high CHTs are an indicator of something wrong that needs attention.

johnboy Thu Jul 29, 2004 7:11 pm

This is good stuff. Here is what has been done:
1. AC was removed by a previous owner. Plumbing is still there, just no compressor or condensor.
2. Basic tune-up. Points, plugs, rotor.
3. Rebuilt hydraulic clutch. Leaked all over floor. What a mess.
4. P.O. installed dual battery set-up.
5. Rear wheel bearings and CV's (check my posts)
6. Fresh brake pads (although the disks are pretty groovy)
This Westy has always started and run admirably and shifted through the gears as smooth as you could like. I do think there probably are some vacuum leaks and I do intend to change out the lines. I did have a fuel line rupture and spray gas all over the passenger heat exchanger. That was a close one. The stove works beautifully and the fridge works on 12V and 110V but I have not been able to get it to run on gas yet. I guess I am not really into increasing the performance of the motor as much as maximizing what it is capable. I like the idea of an auxilary oil cooler, and I have been shopping around for gauges. I would like to replace the (non-functional) clock with a tachometer. What about wheel and tire size? I have 14" rims. Can I go to 15"? Would it help or hinder with top end or handling? Also, I thought you could not adjust hydraulic lifters.

Randy in Maine Thu Jul 29, 2004 8:15 pm

Basic tune-up. Points, plugs, rotor.
Consider a petronics for about $60 if you have the dough.

Fresh brake pads (although the disks are pretty groovy)

Consider replacing the rubber brake hoses. As they get old they swell and tend not to release fully which will cause your rotors to get groovy.

I did have a fuel line rupture and spray gas all over the passenger heat exchanger. That was a close one.
Been here?

http://homepage.mac.com/ratwell/VacuumHoses.html http://homepage.mac.com/ratwell/FuelHoses.html

Most of this stuff will work for you and mwill save your bus from both burning down and getting too hot from vacuum leaks.

The stove works beautifully and the fridge works on 12V and 110V but I have not been able to get it to run on gas yet.

I think jsdesigns who posts a lot of good info here, explained how to do that about 6 months ago. Search time.

Gauges? VDO is what we all seem to run. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=60160

If they were more accurate it would be nice. They are just for trending so don't bet the farm on them.

Read this before installing... http://www.germansupply.com/xcart/customer/home.php?gspage=customer/main/tech/cht/cht_install.tpl

I run 15" alloys
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=60159

but 6 ply 195/75/14 is the 25.7" circumference that came on your bus (185/82/14) to give you proper cooling at highway speeds @ 3800 RPMs. LTX 6 plys have a nice stiff sidewall and will reduce your wind wag. Been here? http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Adjust (actually "zero out") your hydraulic lifers according to the Bently manual when you 1) first get your bus and 2) every couple of years. It will run better, quieter and cooler.



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