TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue May 13, 2025 6:44 am

I have a '68 Type 1 with a newer rebuilt 1600. I put a new clutch pack and bowden tube in it a few years ago and have had intermittent issues with it since, specifically the clutch cable adjustment. I had the cable adjusted on the release arm to where there were no more threads left, no where to go and still not engaging most gears correctly.

Is the arm position supposed to be at around 60 degrees or is it supposed to be up and down at 90 degrees? Pay no attention to the vice grips, I needed those to back off the cable wing nut. The cable is currently loose and that's where the clutch arm lays with no tension other than the spring.

Will the arm pop off the shaft to line it back up at 90 degrees or are the splines going to be an issue?

Tue May 13, 2025 7:37 am

I would buy a shorter length clutch cable before I started messing with the arm on the trans. Its possible someone sold you the wrong length cable. How much free play is at the pedal when the wing nut is bottomed out?

A new cable should have just a few threads poking out the back of the nut. To allow adjustment as the cable stretches over time.

I suggest removing your cable and measuring its full length. The cables are sold in MM not inches for the length.

Problems with shifting, what's the condition of your shift rod bushing and rear coupler?

Tue May 13, 2025 7:52 am

The shift rod bushing and rear coupler are good. I'll have to check the pedal play, I don't recall offhand what it was.

So is that 60 degree position of the arm correct? It seems to me that it should be more vertical.

Tue May 13, 2025 8:13 am

My 72 is more vertical if I recall but don't quote me.
I thought the arm can only go on one way? The splines don't go all the way around the shaft.
Its possible the return spring is broken or stretched.

Tue May 13, 2025 8:20 am

I was kind of thinking that with the splines. I didn't remember from when I did the clutch before. I will need to double check that spring but it looked like it was okay.

Tue May 13, 2025 8:29 am

With the cable out of the arm hole the arm shouldn't have any free play. The spring should hold the arm tight in it's return position. Look at some photos of other transaxles of the same-ish years. That'll give you a good indication of what yours should be like. I'll try and find a pic of mine.

Tue May 13, 2025 11:33 am

Without the clutch cable, the transmission's release arm should be essentially vertical.

Tue May 13, 2025 12:17 pm

Tue May 13, 2025 12:39 pm

That's what I was thinking. The spring appears to be okay other than it being crooked so it must be the T/O bearing or something else internally.

Damn, I'm getting too old for bug ownership! I thought the last time I had the engine out WAS the last time!

Tue May 13, 2025 12:45 pm

now im no trany mechanic but those splines look odd to me to be exposed like that and it looks to have a little clip there ? just an observation not any help .

Tue May 13, 2025 12:50 pm

Yeah, something seems awry. I'm gonna start by popping that spring off and reinstalling it. Sumbitch!

(Great pic, Glenn, thanks!)

Tue May 13, 2025 2:49 pm

Cable stretch or wrong length. Start by getting an inch or a little less of peddle play. If not possible either add a spacer "nut" on the cable or spacer on the bowden tube.

Wed May 14, 2025 4:46 am

Is there supposed to be play in the T/O bearing shaft sticking out where the arm attaches? I can move it in and out about 3/8 inch. I can't get that damn spring off and it is lodged in there cockeyed.

The splined arm is now flush at the end shaft-- so looking at the pic, that arm is even with the clutch bearing shaft with no splines showing and the clip is off.

Something else... I used to be able to shift the stick into a couple of the gears without the clutch and now the stick is frozen, seemingly in the neutral position.

Whatta pain.

Thoughts?

Wed May 14, 2025 5:15 am

My thought is that the clutch arm is not an adjustable part of maintenance. I would pull the engine and see what is going on inside the bell housing with the release mechanism, throw out bearing and clutch pack.

Wed May 14, 2025 12:21 pm

Yep, I'm afraid dropping the block is the only way to know for sure. I put a Sachs clutch kit in there so I thought it would of lasted longer. I guess we'll see.

Wed May 14, 2025 12:44 pm

That clutch assembly is totally borked. The shaft in the photo is sticking out a good inch further than it should. If nothing else, that means the inner circlip on the shaft is missing or broken.
The shaft may not even be located in the right-side bushing inside anymore.

The arm only fits one way on the shaft, they have matching splines, and the outside shaft circlip should be flush with the arm outside surface. The arm is pretty much vertical when the cable is properly adjusted.

Wed May 14, 2025 4:29 pm

You mentioned recently replacing the clutch pack. Did you mean the clutch disc + pressure plate + TO bearing? Did you use the correct set for your transmission? Did the PP you removed have the centering ring at the center for the early style TO bearing to ride on? Did you resurface the flywheel?

With the decades since these cars left the factory you can never assume all the parts are still original to the car. Could your '68 have a '71-later transmission that used the later TO bearing? Do you have pics?

Thu May 15, 2025 6:40 am

Yes, all three components were replaced with the correct style (the people that DON'T are obviously asking for trouble!). It's the early type with the ring on the pressure plate. However, I did not resurface the flywheel.

I'm going to try to find the time to drop the block this weekend.

Thu May 15, 2025 7:03 am

kreemoweet wrote: That clutch assembly is totally borked.
I agree with kreemoweet (and I don't even know what "borked" means).

Get that engine out then fix that clutch shaft.

Thu May 15, 2025 7:13 am

Cusser wrote: kreemoweet wrote: That clutch assembly is totally borked.
I agree with kreemoweet (and I don't even know what "borked" means)

:lol: