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Fri May 16, 2025 9:34 am

Some of you may recall from my 67 Beetle thread that I unexpectedly ended up buying back the first 67 Beetle that I had bought in the early 80's. So now I have two green 67 VW's.

Anyway, the ignition switch in that car was replaced by the PO with an aftermarket switch. The owners kept the original and gave it to me when I bought the car.

My question: is it possible to rebuild (or have someone rebuild) the original ignition switch so that it works with the original door key? I don't know exactly what is wrong with it, but the original key doesn't turn it.

Fri May 16, 2025 9:41 am

does the key code n switch code match ? they should be coded if original , if so im sure one of the locksmiths here could help you out . door locks were coded too . if you know your code some venders can just make that key .

Fri May 16, 2025 9:55 am

my3bugs wrote: does the key code n switch code match ?

Well, yes and no. It is the same key that used to operate the switch, but that car never had an original key, just a duplicate, so there is no code stamped on the key. But it worked fine. However, the ignition didn't match the door key, so that car has two different keys.

In a perfect world, I would like to provide a locksmith with the door key code and have them rebuild the ignition cylinder to match so that I would have one key. But I don't know if that's even possible.

Fri May 16, 2025 12:36 pm

Open up the switch carefully and rework it. There are small springs in the later ones.

Fri May 16, 2025 12:45 pm

aquifer wrote: In a perfect world, I would like to provide a locksmith with the door key code and have them rebuild the ignition cylinder to match so that I would have one key. But I don't know if that's even possible.

This is the guy you want to contact:

https://gabvwkey.com

Fri May 16, 2025 1:39 pm

aquifer wrote: I would like to provide a locksmith with the door key code and have them rebuild the ignition cylinder to match so that I would have one key. But I don't know if that's even possible.
Yes it's possible to do that.
If you post a pic of your key, and the key code of the ignition switch, I can tell you if the key is cut to match the lock. If you don't want to post this here for the world to see, send me pics via PM.

Sun May 18, 2025 5:36 pm

What oldschool says: This is the guy you want to contact:

https://gabvwkey.com

Mon May 19, 2025 7:11 am

Bruce wrote: aquifer wrote: I would like to provide a locksmith with the door key code and have them rebuild the ignition cylinder to match so that I would have one key. But I don't know if that's even possible.
Yes it's possible to do that.
If you post a pic of your key, and the key code of the ignition switch, I can tell you if the key is cut to match the lock. If you don't want to post this here for the world to see, send me pics via PM.

Thank you for the offer, I may take you up on it if my plan fails. I have contacted Gabvwkey as suggested above. Both the ignition switch itself and the door locks have key code profile K. If Gabriel can do it, I would like him to grind off the original key code from the ignition switch and re-stamp it with the key code I'm requesting. That way there wouldn't be any confusion down the road after I'm long gone!

I'll see what he says and proceed from there.

Mon May 19, 2025 4:36 pm

I just matched my engine lid lock and convertible hood pull to a pair of door handles and ignition switch so all of my 66 matches. wasn't that hard to do but took a bit of research and pirating of some wafers from cadaver handles, decklid locks to do it. Since I had the ignition lock, I didn't fool with it - yet. I don't like the beat-up finish of the key entrance. I'll be looking for an ''SC'' at this year's swap meets. From what I see the lock cylinder is held in the body by a tiny circlip. Getting it off may be the hardest part of the job. So, your question about the lock numbers, the code is actually - most of the time - stamped where the switch is screwed to the dash. You have to take it out and flip it upside down to see it. I've heard - other than the ignition which uses four - all the other locks use a combination of three wafers. That was true in my case. I used a caliper to measure the slot to the bottom of the wafer (orienting them with the spring perch up. I got three basic measurements. .180 .200 .220. Organizing them this way, I carefully pulled the wafers from my door handles noting the order. I then just duplicated the finding in the engine lock and vert hood pull cylinders. The lid lock wasn't stamped for a code, so I did it myself using 1/16 stamps. I should note here all the components were SC coded. I don't think the wafers are different shapes until 68 and later. You mentioned your key won't turn the original switch and I can tell you these get cruddy inside and wafers stick. I had a piece of fine sandpaper I slid them along using a pencil eraser to shine them up. I used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the parts and powder graphite for reassembly.