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Sat May 17, 2025 3:24 pm

Got my 67 aligned this week and have been driving it quite a bit today as I continue to work on it. I kept noticing a little puddle of oil under the road vent tube that extends down from the oil filler to vent the crankcase.

I stuck a bore scope down the oil fill tube, and sure enough, the oil deflector is missing so it’s throwing oil up into the filler assembly. Whoever rebuilt the engine obviously didn’t put it back in. I’m not going to think about what other critical things the rebuilder missed.

My question: How would you do this? Would you focus on removing the generator, or would you leave the generator attached to the shroud and focus on lifting the shroud high enough to get the generator stand off? I’d have to unthread the thermostat from the flap rod, take the carburetor off, remove the bolts on the ends of the shroud.

As always, I appreciate any advice!

Sat May 17, 2025 4:56 pm

What a pain...

I usually lift the shroud to remove a generator/alternator. You'll also need to remove the engine lid and swing the hinge brackets to the side in order to lift the shroud high enough to remove the four screws that fasten the generator assy to the shroud and allow it to clear the intake manifold. Once you pull the generator/fan assy out of the shroud, you'll be able to remove the stand, clean everything up, then install the deflector plate with new gaskets.

Here's a link to a thread that explains another method for removing the generator from the shroud with the engine in the car. You can decide which might be the easiest for you > Removing the generator

Position the deflector plate like this...

Sat May 17, 2025 5:33 pm

Personally would drop the engine to do a lot more inspection of clutch, axle boots, fill transaxle, and any other needed repairs or replace missing pieces like engine tin or seals.

Mon May 19, 2025 7:28 am

Eric&Barb wrote: Personally would drop the engine to do a lot more inspection of clutch, axle boots, fill transaxle, and any other needed repairs or replace missing pieces like engine tin or seals.

I realize I didn't put much detail in the OP, but all of this has been done and I'm just now at the stage of getting it on the road again.

By way of an update, I got the generator stand out yesterday. It went better than I thought. I had to remove the decklid, but I didn't have to swing the hinges away to get the shroud high enough to access the bottom generator/fan cover bolts. I stuffed a rag in the block and cleaned the gasket surface. I also cleaned the generator stand gasket surface, and did some other minor cleaning while stuff was out of the way.

I await delivery of the baffle and gaskets.

I'm planning to use Permatex Aviation on both sides of both gaskets for the baffle. Does that sound right? Any other suggestions while I have it disassembled?

Mon May 19, 2025 9:34 am

aquifer wrote:
I'm planning to use Permatex Aviation on both sides of both gaskets for the baffle. Does that sound right? Any other suggestions while I have it disassembled?

No sealant needed if the surfaces are in good shape. Does not hurt to run a fine flat file over the bottom of the stand to make sure it is fairly flat. DPOs tend to over torque fasteners and distort stuff like this.

Fri May 23, 2025 11:46 am

Eric&Barb wrote: aquifer wrote:
I'm planning to use Permatex Aviation on both sides of both gaskets for the baffle. Does that sound right? Any other suggestions while I have it disassembled?

No sealant needed if the surfaces are in good shape. Does not hurt to run a fine flat file over the bottom of the stand to make sure it is fairly flat. DPOs tend to over torque fasteners and distort stuff like this.

I’d use the sealant and have a better chance at no leaks

Fri May 23, 2025 12:31 pm

Yes on the sealant. Observe correct orientation of the baffle part.