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Thu Jul 24, 2025 11:32 am

Hello, I have seen this discussed before in
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=407269
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=687900

I am making this post as a way to make sure I am doing it right and to get everything done while I’m in there. Really kicking myself for not replacing the orange seal staring at me for months while doing my Subaru swap.

First off, I am leaking slowly from here

I can see that it has also sprayed a bit of fluid around the bay from the vent holes where the torque converter spins.

In your opinion, does this look like a torque converter seal leak? If so I will get the metal seal recommended in many posts and drop the dang motor.

If I pull the motor and do this, what else should I do while I’m in there? Do you recommend leaving the transmission in the car while doing this? Should I drop the transmission and do a full service (pan, gasket, screen, anything else?) I’m still shifting well but had to top off fluid yesterday and wanted to do a big road trip. Transaxle was rebuilt in 2011 at gowesty apparently.

Thu Jul 24, 2025 11:46 am

It’s likely quicker to remove the transmission than the engine for access. Unless the case is porous or the torque converter is cracked, the only place for fluid to leak out is the seal. But there is a bushing pressed into the torque converter that holds it centered. Check for wear. Its replaceable. Also check the surface where the seal rides. Make sure it’s not grooved. It can be repaired with a seal saver sleeve.

I’ve never done this, but some members swear by using 2 seals.

Thu Jul 24, 2025 11:51 am

MarkWard wrote: It’s likely quicker to remove the transmission than the engine for access. Unless the case is porous or the torque converter is cracked, the only place for fluid to leak out is the seal. But there is a bushing pressed into the torque converter that holds it centered. Check for wear. Its replaceable. Also check the surface where the seal rides. Make sure it’s not grooved. It can be repaired with a seal saver sleeve.

I’ve never done this, but some members swear by using 2 seals.

Thank you, that is great info and reduces my doom factor by quite a bit as the motor is a bit hard to get out since I don’t have a lift.

Thu Jul 24, 2025 12:04 pm

The automatic is extremely heavy. I would enlist a friend and have a ratchet strap around it securing to the floor jack. If it fell off, it could crush your hand, so extreme caution. You need to remove the 3 bolts that connect the torque converter to the flex plate. Since it’s a subi, not sure how that actually looks. A piece of wire through the torque converter fin to the bellhousing cutouts will keep the torque converter in place while you drop the trans. You maybe tempted to just unbolt the inner cvs. There is room, but manual or automatic I completely remove the axles. Just makes it easier.

Thu Jul 24, 2025 12:33 pm

Mine started leaking like that 4 years ago. I reached out to my rebuilder and they agreed it did look like a TC seal but also suggested;

If I was you, I would suggest looking for more causes of failure.
Example: flex plate, possible grove in torque converter, inplay in the motor crank...these are all just suggestions.

Four years later I finally punted it to my mechanic who is working on it right now. I'll post again once they identify the true problem.[/i]

Thu Jul 24, 2025 12:58 pm

MarkWard wrote: The automatic is extremely heavy. I would enlist a friend and have a ratchet strap around it securing to the floor jack. If it fell off, it could crush your hand, so extreme caution. You need to remove the 3 bolts that connect the torque converter to the flex plate. Since it’s a subi, not sure how that actually looks. A piece of wire through the torque converter fin to the bellhousing cutouts will keep the torque converter in place while you drop the trans. You maybe tempted to just unbolt the inner cvs. There is room, but manual or automatic I completely remove the axles. Just makes it easier.

Sounds good, yep I know the process of the 3 bolts etc as I put the thing in there but good looking out. Wire trick seems good etc

Thu Jul 24, 2025 1:20 pm

MarkWard wrote: I’ve never done this, but some members swear by using 2 seals.

DON'T use 2 seals! Follow up experience is that is not recommended.

Getting the correct seal is the important action.

Having a smooth metal surface is also important. There is a speedi sleeve solution.

OP, if you find you have a less than perfectly smooth TC seal surface, LMK and I'll walk you though options including Speedi Sleeve. I took a bunch of pictures but haven't written it up yet.

Thu Jul 24, 2025 1:56 pm

vanis13 wrote: MarkWard wrote: I’ve never done this, but some members swear by using 2 seals.

DON'T use 2 seals! Follow up experience is that is not recommended.

Getting the correct seal is the important action.

Having a smooth metal surface is also important. There is a speedi sleeve solution.

OP, if you find you have a less than perfectly smooth TC seal surface, LMK and I'll walk you though options including Speedi Sleeve. I took a bunch of pictures but haven't written it up yet.

Gotcha, I have ordered Napa part 550237 and will hopefully get it soon ish. I think the double seal was a thing people used to workaround the non-metal seals.