TheSamba.com :: View topic - How To Inspect Fuel Tank For Rust And Other Crud

Tue Jul 15, 2025 3:39 pm

Hi!

My 1990 Westy GL has the original fuel tank. Last year, I drove it with just a little reserve and clogged the hell out of 2 injectors. I verified that by the OBD1 codes.

So, I'm planning for a long trip in the fall and am thinking of replacing the tank. But is there a way to confirm that it has rust or other debris that can clog the fuel lines?

In other words, how do I know it's time to replace the tank? What can I do to inspect the interior of the tank?

Thanks!

Tue Jul 15, 2025 3:43 pm

Boroscope. You can buy a handy complete inspection camera from Harbor Freight for about $80 that will sorta work but the feed is only about 3 feet long. There are others available that will work with an iPhone with much longer leads.

https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-61839.html

Tue Jul 15, 2025 3:47 pm

i'm intrigued that tank schmoo got past the Bosch canister fuel filter to the point of clogging injectors. there is no pressure bypass on the filters, they should just simply stop passing gasoline at a sufficient rate as they clog unless the media blows out.

thoughts from the collective?

Tue Jul 15, 2025 3:55 pm

What is with your fuel filter? If the filter is good, how did dirt get past it? Could it be that maybe a hose disinigrated internally after the fuel filter? Or is your filter busted or not existent?

Only two of four injectors clogged??? Do these two have a common injector rail, if so is it compromised?

Tue Jul 15, 2025 4:44 pm

Odd how the Vanagon’s improvements over the Bay and Split failed so bad with the fuel tank.

Tue Jul 15, 2025 5:20 pm

If you take the tank out and remove the fuel level sending unit you can see most of the inside pretty good. But just blowing backwards through the filter when you change it should give you a good idea of how much and what is coming out of the tank.

Tue Jul 15, 2025 6:42 pm

POR15 has a kit for tanks. I've used it with vintage motorcycle tanks. It's handy when you don't want to or can't replace the tank.

https://por15.com/products/fuel-tank-repair-kit

Tue Jul 15, 2025 6:43 pm

zerotofifty wrote: What is with your fuel filter? If the filter is good, how did dirt get past it? Could it be that maybe a hose disinigrated internally after the fuel filter? Or is your filter busted or not existent?

Only two of four injectors clogged??? Do these two have a common injector rail, if so is it compromised?
The filter was not changed out during the Ej2.2 conversion. It was well past due for changing at the time of the injector clog. Chalk that one up to bad owner!

Tue Jul 15, 2025 6:46 pm

pbrown wrote: POR15 has a kit for tanks. I've used it with vintage motorcycle tanks. It's handy when you don't want to or can't replace the tank.

https://por15.com/products/fuel-tank-repair-kit
Thanks, but it sounds like I'd have to remove and drain the tack to use this. If so, I may as well cough up the bucks and replace the tank.

Having said that, considering that the tank if over 30 years, and is already showing signs of internal rust, I'm seriously looking at replacing it to be done with it.

Thanks!

Tue Jul 15, 2025 6:49 pm

hardway wrote: If you take the tank out and remove the fuel level sending unit you can see most of the inside pretty good. But just blowing backwards through the filter when you change it should give you a good idea of how much and what is coming out of the tank.
Once I take it out, I'll most likely need to reseal it and inspect the lines and replace as needed. New fuel tanks aren't that much compared ti what else I've replaced in the old gal, so I may as say "plug the injectors once with crud, you'r out."

That's my mindset now, replace the tank and be done with it.

Thanks!

Tue Jul 15, 2025 8:20 pm

If your original tank is in good condition it is a better tank than the replacements. Getting the level sender to seal with the replacement tanks requires some finesse. They just don't fit well. They also just don't have the same internal components. Sometimes benign neglect achieves a better outcome than good intentions. Sometimes you just have to replace the tank and deal with it's shortcomings.

Tue Jul 15, 2025 8:40 pm

Por-15 is dicey. I know more failures with it delaminating and clogging than long term success. I’m sure it’s been successful. You might call Old Volks down the street from you and see if they know of a radiator shop locally that can inspect and clean up without a coating. Some people have had success with a bicycle chain (or similar) and diesel fuel shaking around to knock off the crusty stuff. Do your research as you are. Just something to investigate. I have no idea if any of my suggestions are more cost effective than buying a new tank or used OEM tank

Tue Jul 15, 2025 8:41 pm

You can't seal a 2wd gas tank, you are more likely to mess up the tank than make it better. There are parts inside you are likely to damage. Replacement is the only real option.

From the gallery

Tue Jul 15, 2025 8:48 pm

zerotofifty wrote: What is with your fuel filter? If the filter is good, how did dirt get past it? Could it be that maybe a hose disinigrated internally after the fuel filter? Or is your filter busted or not existent?

Only two of four injectors clogged??? Do these two have a common injector rail, if so is it compromised?

I agree 100% with your questioning.

My 83 Air-cool sit parked for 5 years. The tank rusted. In the summer/fall of 1992, I got it going and proceeded to get it ready for a long road trip in 1993. I was driving it to work daily as I ironed out the bugs.

Anyway, one day it began to slow to a crawl. The fuel filter was plugged with rust. After numerous filters, I gave up and pulled the tank. I used two motorcycle tank kits to coat the inside of the tank. It worked. But, it never ended up with plugged injectors.

So, even though the OPs tank may be rusted inside, the filters should be catching the rust.

Tue Jul 15, 2025 9:27 pm

hardway wrote: If your original tank is in good condition it is a better tank than the replacements. Getting the level sender to seal with the replacement tanks requires some finesse. They just don't fit well. They also just don't have the same internal components. Sometimes benign neglect achieves a better outcome than good intentions. Sometimes you just have to replace the tank and deal with it's shortcomings.
Great points. Thanks!

Tue Jul 15, 2025 9:39 pm

zerotofifty wrote: Only two of four injectors clogged??? Do these two have a common injector rail, if so is it compromised?
To be fair, I saw codes 14 and 15, so only 2 injectors failed. It is a common rail, and I bit the bullet on replacing all 4 injectors and cleaned the rail.

Tue Jul 15, 2025 9:59 pm

SoquelDude wrote: hardway wrote: If your original tank is in good condition it is a better tank than the replacements. Getting the level sender to seal with the replacement tanks requires some finesse. They just don't fit well. They also just don't have the same internal components. Sometimes benign neglect achieves a better outcome than good intentions. Sometimes you just have to replace the tank and deal with it's shortcomings.
Great points. Thanks!

If you're set on keeping the existing tank and inside rust is the issue, look into electrolysis for rust removal. I've done the inside of NLA motorcycle tanks that were rusty. The trick is covering the anode with fiberglass/plastic window screen as an insulator that still allows fluid transmission.... Plan on it taking several days.

Wed Jul 16, 2025 10:08 am

So, I'm convinced the 30+ year-old tank has rust and other crap in it. That will clog not just the filter but the pump as well over time. I suppose it's possible that once the filter gets too clogged, it will fail, and crap will seep out to the injectors.

So, for now, I plan to change the filter more often. I think the recommended time to change is 30K miles. I'm not sure when the PO last changed the filter, but when I changed it looked pretty old. So, for noe, I'll stay with a 5K interval.

The trouble is that the filter is downstream from the pump, which I recently changed as well. It cavitates sometimes, so I'm guessing the crap in the line is starving it. Note that it isn't cavitating/whining as much as the old pump, but without a pre-filter, it's only a matter of time before the pump starts to clog.

I'm not hot for the idea of repairing/rust-proofing the old tank for fear of stressing the old metal and causing leaks.

The ultimate solution I can think of is to replace the tank and the lines. I've seen the horror stories about seating the sensor unit on a new tank, so I want to do some more due diligence and look up posts from other westy folks who have changed their tanks.

Thanks for all of the great into!

Wed Jul 16, 2025 10:42 am

Xevin wrote: Odd how the Vanagon’s improvements over the Bay and Split failed so bad with the fuel tank. I would say not quite, as I feel it is way easier to remove a Vanagon tank than a Bay tank from memory with our old ‘68.
:P :P :lol: :lol:

Wed Jul 16, 2025 10:57 am

jlrftype7 wrote: Xevin wrote: Odd how the Vanagon’s improvements over the Bay and Split failed so bad with the fuel tank. I would say not quite, as I feel it is way easier to remove a Vanagon tank than a Bay tank from memory with our old ‘68.
:P :P :lol: :lol:
Why did they do away with the pre-filter in later model Vanagons? Considering that crap always lurks in the tank, doesn't the lack of a pre-filter hasten the ultimate demise of the pump?