TheSamba.com :: View topic - How do I replace my shift rod bushings and boots?

Thu Aug 14, 2025 6:27 am

I have my transmission out currently and I thought I might be good idea to replace these bushings and boots. I already replaced the front bushing.

I have parts:
1 211711185B middle bushing
1 211711179 front bushing?
2 211711183B boots

Bus depot and WW have conflicting information. Bus depot says I need 2 of the 211711179 but WW says I need these 2 different ones for a 72 bus.

My Questions:

What is the best way to remove the shift rod so I can replace the bushings? Can I pull it from the back out or should I do the front? If I do front, I need to remove a linkage in the back.

Is it worth it to replace the bushings ? If the benefits is not worth the effort I will not do it, I can just replace the boots which are toast at the moment. My fear is pulling out the shift rod and the bushings get stuck inside. That might be a big challenge to get them out.

I have read ratwell article and a few other posts here that suggest the reproduction bushings don't fit well so I might just check the play on the rod and leave it alone for now, replacing only the boots.

Thu Aug 14, 2025 8:01 am

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=784637&highlight=bnanwel
Take a look at this thread, lots of applicable pics.
The rod needs to come out the back. You do not need to remove the tranny coupling at the rear. Separate the front shift rod prior to pulling it aft. Clean the shit out of everything including the tube itself. Use a long piece of 3 strand rope with strips of cloth pulled through the yams. Soak the strips in carb cleaner or acetone and pull it back and forth. Check everything before ordering. I actually did not replace the “birdies”. Mine were still in excellent condition; so, cleaning was the only thing needed.

Thu Aug 14, 2025 8:05 am

Thu Aug 14, 2025 8:46 am

Bnanwel wrote: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=784637&highlight=bnanwel
Take a look at this thread, lots of applicable pics.
The rod needs to come out the back. You do not need to remove the tranny coupling at the rear. Separate the front shift rod prior to pulling it aft. Clean the shit out of everything including the tube itself. Use a long piece of 3 strand rope with strips of cloth pulled through the yams. Soak the strips in carb cleaner or acetone and pull it back and forth. Check everything before ordering. I actually did not replace the “birdies”. Mine were still in excellent condition; so, cleaning was the only thing needed.

Thanks and great ideas. Question, when you pulled out from the rear, did you have to apply a lot of pressure. Mine did not move much with just hand grip, likely very dirty. I am wondering how the birdies stay in position? I guess it is the small dimples in the center that hold them in place somehow. Fingers crossed

Thu Aug 14, 2025 9:02 am

The birdies stay in position. Old grease makes it “tight”. Twist and pull. Obviously, make sure it is fully detached from the front shift rod. Use the little straw a squirt some carb cleaner or wd40, something with some solvent, in the tube at the front and the back to ease the grease.

Notice the position of the birdies near the ends.

Thu Aug 14, 2025 9:29 am

if the old birdies are good use them. The reproductions suck.

Thu Aug 14, 2025 9:52 am

i wonder if a bottle brush would help,or maybe a plumbers pipe snake.

Thu Aug 14, 2025 10:00 am

The rope trick works really well, and you’re right about the new birdies; they suck!

Thu Aug 14, 2025 10:18 am

lil-jinx wrote: i wonder if a bottle brush would help,or maybe a plumbers pipe snake. I used a fiberglass rod like what is used for installing network cable, tied a rope thru it and cleaned the tube like cleaning a gun bore, pulling the rope back and forth with clean rags until they came out pretty clean. Make sure new rubber boots are used to seal the tube when done.

Thu Aug 14, 2025 1:55 pm

when i had mine out ,i installed a extra bushing,
i had read some where that it was a good mod.

Thu Aug 14, 2025 2:59 pm

lil-jinx wrote: when i had mine out ,i installed a extra bushing,
i had read some where that it was a good mod.

you probably meant this supplement from the American Copy of the OGVW Service Manual. It is posted in my gallery images.

Thu Aug 14, 2025 7:11 pm

I got it out without a fight (with a little carb cleaner to lubricant the old grease. The old bushing (badmintons) look fine to reuse. The new ones look like they would need some mods to get the tabs to fit inside the holes on the rod.
I will clean up the ends of the rod and put a little paint to limit the rust.

How much grease do you put in the re-install? I assume about a tablespoon around each bushing? Thanks

Fri Aug 15, 2025 7:36 am

I painted the parts outside the boots and slathered the shaft and the tube. I used the rope and strips of cloth trick to grease the inside of the tube; just put some grease on the strips. It was done like this before and didn’t have a spot of rust on either when I cleaned the old grease off. Be sure to slide a new rear boot on from the front before reinstalling the birdies. Also, be careful to save the metal rings that spread the tabs on the birdies open. I can’t tell if they are in place in the pic or not.

Fri Aug 15, 2025 8:09 am

Bnanwel wrote: I painted the parts outside the boots and slathered the shaft and the tube. I used the rope and strips of cloth trick to grease the inside of the tube; just put some grease on the strips. It was done like this before and didn’t have a spot of rust on either when I cleaned the old grease off. Be sure to slide a new rear boot on from the front before reinstalling the birdies. Also, be careful to save the metal rings that spread the tabs on the birdies open. I can’t tell if they are in place in the pic or not.

Thanks, on my bus it only has the ring on the rear birdie, the front does not have a metal ring (that was the design at the time). I don't know if I could try the new one with metal ring in the front, it has 2 detents instead the front only with 1 detent

Fri Aug 15, 2025 8:54 am

Actually, you’re correct. Only one had the ring.

Fri Aug 15, 2025 11:01 am

SGKent that's what i did,thanks for the document,i likely got the info from one of your posts,

Sat Aug 16, 2025 7:04 am

Final check before re-install. I just want to make sure I have correct orientation.

The arm connector seems like it has a slant to it, not sure if by design or bending over time but I think this was slanting downward. The arm with the hole points downward, I remember that part.

also the holes for the birdie detents, I think they are at the bottom orientation. That seems make sense to hold them in place better.

If anyone can confirm, thank you.

Sat Aug 16, 2025 7:29 am

The orientation of the holes for the birdies doesn’t really matter. If the birdies are in good shape, they compress all around to slide into the tube; they aren’t going anywhere. The only thing that really matters is the orientation of the curve on the rear arm, downward.

Sat Aug 16, 2025 7:43 am

Bnanwel wrote: The orientation of the holes for the birdies doesn’t really matter. If the birdies are in good shape, they compress all around to slide into the tube; they aren’t going anywhere. The only thing that really matters is the orientation of the curve on the rear arm, downward.

Awesome, thank you

Tue Aug 19, 2025 1:37 pm

Just confirming I got it all back together but I wanted to show the difference between the new and old birdie with the ring. The new one left a big gap towards the back. Could be the size of the ring which I could have swapped I guess. I used the old, it seems to be very tight in the tunnel. The front was more lose but I think that was the design.

On to the next task.