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Mon Oct 06, 2025 2:21 pm

I am replacing the original switch with an after market switch on my 1970 bug.
I installed the switch using the correct wires. I connected the wires temporarily just to make sure everything was working properly before I make the final connections. I did test the switch before I installed it.
With the battery hooked up and the ignition in the on position turn signals did not work. I have NO 12V coming to the blk/white/green input wire. The headlight bright function worked. Pulling up on the lever.
. As a side note I don’t see the red and green warning lights come on the dash when key is in the on position. The ignition will start the motor when turned to start position. Don’t know if this has any relevance to the issue.
I am at a loss of why there is no 12 V at the turn signal switch. Could it be the ignition electrical switch acting up?
Appreciate your experienced comments !

Mon Oct 06, 2025 2:43 pm

I bet your fuel gauge and horn are also not working? :o

First rule of working with electrical components... check the fuse. :D

The #1 fuse on the '70 Beetle powers the turn signals, the horn and the fuel gauge+indicator lamps at the bottom of the speedometer.

Remove the fuse and inspect both the ends of the fuse and the two clips that hold it in place. If the fuse is blown, replace it with the proper white 8A fuse. Clean up all the contacts with a wire brush or sandpaper. Just make sure there is a clean solid contact.
With the ignition switch ON, confirm there is 12v at both fuse clips using a 12v test lamp or VM.

Mon Oct 06, 2025 3:02 pm

I checked the fuses using a multi meter for continuity. I will clean up the fuse contacts and use a test lamp.
The horn does not work and there is no gas in the tank so don’t know if that gauge works or not.
Thanks

Mon Oct 06, 2025 4:08 pm

Quote: don’t know if that gauge works or not

With the key switch in the 'on' position, take the wire off that's connected to the center of the sending unit. The gauge 'needle' in the speedometer will go to one 'extreme' or not move at all, touch that same wire to a good ground, the needle will go to the other 'extreme'. If not I'd say you have no power to the vibrator on the gas gauge.

Mon Oct 06, 2025 5:39 pm

AR wrote: I checked the fuses using a multi meter for continuity. I will clean up the fuse contacts and use a test lamp.
Found this pic in the gallery a while back.

Here the fuse visually looks okay. You can put a continuity tester on both ends of the metallic strip and it will pass, but it is NOT making proper contact with the clips at the ends.

You need to remove the fuses and inspect the fuse and the clips that hold them. Also, it doesn't hurt to remove each fuse and clean up the clips and fuse ends to reduce any resistance caused by corrosion/oxidation. If cleaning the ends of the fuse cause them to break... they were in need of replacement any way! :shock:

Thu Oct 09, 2025 5:43 am

Just a follow up.

I ended up replacing the ignition electrical switch. Everything is working now except the horn!

I did check fuses and cleaned up the best I could. Needed to be done anyway.
Thanks for your comments
AR

Thu Oct 09, 2025 5:51 am

As a side note- I noticed that the black center input wire on the aftermarket switch is of a smaller gauge wire than the original black/ green/ white wire.
Just an observation!

Thu Oct 09, 2025 6:11 am

Quote: installed the switch using the correct wires

I used all of the wires on the new switch. Paired them together. Larger contact 'targets'.