TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Nov 06, 2025 10:32 am

What turned out as a random "Hail Mary" message on FB Marketplace turned out way different than I expected. Someone was scheduled to buy it and I was next in line to look at it. Turned out the buyer was a no show and after meeting with the owner, I'm dragging this thing home. Here's what I know.

1984 Vanagon GL, two tone blue. Purchased in 2010 and was driven and parts replaced along the line for the next 5 years. In 2015, the owner had several repairs going at once and the last straw was the hard brake line blowing out above the fuel tank (this happened right after replacing the fuel tank) so in frustration, it was parked. The clutch and brake pedals are not seized but the overall condition of that system is unknown. As of now there are no brakes and not sure if the clutch is operational.

The floor is very solid, no major holes other than the typical Midwest rust in the quarters, front steps, and the bottom track for the sliding door. No rust around the windshield, side windows, or rear hatch. There is a large rust spot in the middle of the sliding door which was repaired long ago and the filler has cracked and fell off. Not sure if we will repair or replace the door. He replaced the entire coolant line from front to rear, rear axles and boots look brand new, and looks like he indeed spent some time and money on it. The odometer shows 214xxx miles but he said the engine was pulled to replace the exhaust manifold and a shop in WI did a top end refresh approximately 50xxx miles ago. There's no way to prove this but I assume a compression check will tell me otherwise. This is a sunroof optioned tin top which I'm sure the sunroof will need to be lubricated and gone through since it has sat for 10 years. It's not that great of a looker right now but I can tell that there is a ton of potential here.

He hooked up a jump box, and the engine turned over with no problem. He stated there were no problems with fuel delivery, cooling issues, etc. There was an issue where he lost spark. He has a new module that bolts to the left side of the engine bay, which he thinks solves that issue. Once we get the van trailered home, that will be the first item on our list. Once we know we have a solid running machine, we're off to the races. My son is going to work on the project with me and our first goal is to get it running and yard driving. Attached are photos from when we first looked at it. Once we get it home, I'll post more pictures.

We know the air cooled VW's since we own two '74 Super Beetles. I know nothing about the water cooled boxer. This one is a 1.9 I was told. I was also told that this is the "Digijet" system which I don't really know what that means so I'll have to so some research. I'm not sure exactly what I have engine wise. I'm ordering a Bentley manual today to help us along.

If anyone has any input, resources, etc. I'm all ears and appreciate anything you guys have to offer.

Thanks!

Thu Nov 06, 2025 10:42 am

Oh My Gods, WHAT HAVE YOU DONE??? :lol:

Welcome to the Busylum, where being sane is a massive disadvantage.

Digijet was used through the 1985 model year, Digifant after and through 1992 (they were only imported to here through 1991).

While many if not most new owners choose a more-maintained van, perhaps you’ve done you and your son right here. It’s typical otherwise to replace stuff as necessary, whereas your learning curve — though steep — will have you summiting much earlier… and it’ll be a great bonding adventure in offering deep experience.

All meaning, COOL and WELCOME!

PM me anytime I can help.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 11:00 am

cmyoch wrote: The odometer shows 214xxx miles but he said the engine was pulled to replace the exhaust manifold and a shop in WI did a top end refresh approximately 50xxx miles ago. There's no way to prove this but I assume a compression check will tell me otherwise.
The top end refresh was most likely replacing the head gaskets - as this is common on these motors. A compression check will not verify that, as these head gaskets are more of a water seal. However, yes, do a compression check and an oil pressure check to get a rough idea of the engine's mechanical condition.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 11:05 am

Congrats on the van. Looks cool. Might be worth calling around to the van shops in WI to figure out who worked on it last. Might give you a good record of what was done.

Also, be sure to check out the Essentials FAQ thread and yes, the Bentley has been mega helpful.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 11:28 am

Awesome! Welcome to the madness.

We are here to help. Some of us are a little crusty and irritable but mean well. 8)

Great bonding project with your son.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 11:46 am

Crusty and irritable, did someone call my name? Welcome to the madness!

There is a lot of knowledge in these forums. Rarely does something come up that has not been seen and answered 20 times.

Learn to use the FAQ's They are easy to use and always lots of good reading. If you have a question after reading about your subject then post it to that thread and then it will come to the top and it will be responded to.

Good luck, coming in as Vanagon newby with a VW background is great. You're starting with the best WBX engine there is.

With a van of that age and description, I'd have a serious look at the fuel lines and any plastic in the cooling system. The hoses seem to last forever, but the plastic ages and cracks and leaves you walking.

Stacy

Thu Nov 06, 2025 12:32 pm

From the engine bay pic, I can say it has the 1.9 coolant system. That does NOT mean the engine block is a 1.9, since you CAN get a 2.1 block into the mix, just ask E1!!

I would also assume, that the other words used in context would indeed have you looking at Digijet,

Here's a link to get you started (from the FAQ's)

https://www.loam.org/vw/Vanagon/VanagonProTraining/FuelSystems/

The other mentionalbe I have is one similar to my own experience; how does a break in a rear brakes line cause front brakes to fail? I just don't understand it, but I have the opposite, my '86 tintop blew a front hard line, and there are no hydraulic brakes. It confuses me, since there are supposed to be failsafes that keep that from happening.

I do have an early T3, an 83.5 so I have a rough idea about the layout. I have never even tried to fire it up, and really don't want to until I have the time and resources, and all my other T3's and KG and Notch up and running. So, that will put me in my 70's at least...

The "Module" you are referencing could be the "computer" or ECU, or it could be a relay. E1 will know that much better than me, but I can snap photos of mine if you need, too.

As others have said, Welcome! We are glad you are here, and we are here to offer help (or at least try to keep you from going entirely the wrong way, if we can)

-bobby

Thu Nov 06, 2025 12:48 pm

Oh, man. Flashback to 4th grade. I will never forget the lucky day I got to ride shotgun in Mrs. Adams' (teacher) brand new two-tone blue Vanagon on a field trip... same interior as yours too (hers had the full wheel covers, though). She drove it for over a decade, but, sadly, didn't really take care of it after the "newness" wore off... based on how it looked the last time I ever saw it, it probably ended up in a SoCal junkyard.

Anyway, congrats! Let the headaches fun begin! \:D/

Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:08 pm

Check and or replace all the fuel lines (engine bay first)!!! Failed fuel line (s) is/are a major cause of dead for vanagons' and the same vintage VW's (goes up in flames), next to loosing coolant. Most annoying thing is dirty electrical grounds.

Remember it's a 40 YO vehicle and they need some TLC. :)

Welcome to the club :)

Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:11 pm

E1 wrote: Oh My Gods, WHAT HAVE YOU DONE??? :lol:

Welcome to the Busylum, where being sane is a massive disadvantage.

Digijet was used through the 1985 model year, Digifant after and through 1992 (they were only imported to here through 1991).

While many if not most new owners choose a more-maintained van, perhaps you’ve done you and your son right here. It’s typical otherwise to replace stuff as necessary, whereas your learning curve — though steep — will have you summiting much earlier… and it’ll be a great bonding adventure in offering deep experience.

All meaning, COOL and WELCOME!

PM me anytime I can help.

The PO kept mentioning Digijet. I need to research what I really have in our possession. We are a glutton for punishment with older vehicles that we have to learn the hard way. BUT, this is also our education moving forward.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:13 pm

Crooked Designer wrote: Congrats on the van. Looks cool. Might be worth calling around to the van shops in WI to figure out who worked on it last. Might give you a good record of what was done.

Also, be sure to check out the Essentials FAQ thread and yes, the Bentley has been mega helpful.

I was quick enough to jot down the name of the shop in Sheboygan Falls, WI. I figured I would call at some point.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:15 pm

16CVs wrote: Crusty and irritable, did someone call my name? Welcome to the madness!

There is a lot of knowledge in these forums. Rarely does something come up that has not been seen and answered 20 times.

Learn to use the FAQ's They are easy to use and always lots of good reading. If you have a question after reading about your subject then post it to that thread and then it will come to the top and it will be responded to.

Good luck, coming in as Vanagon newby with a VW background is great. You're starting with the best WBX engine there is.

With a van of that age and description, I'd have a serious look at the fuel lines and any plastic in the cooling system. The hoses seem to last forever, but the plastic ages and cracks and leaves you walking.

Stacy

Yes, I plan on spending some time in the FAQs to get more familiar. Since it has sat for so long, fuel lines, grounds, connectors, wires, etc. will all get looked over.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:23 pm

bobbyblack wrote: From the engine bay pic, I can say it has the 1.9 coolant system. That does NOT mean the engine block is a 1.9, since you CAN get a 2.1 block into the mix, just ask E1!!

I would also assume, that the other words used in context would indeed have you looking at Digijet,

Here's a link to get you started (from the FAQ's)

https://www.loam.org/vw/Vanagon/VanagonProTraining/FuelSystems/

The other mentionalbe I have is one similar to my own experience; how does a break in a rear brakes line cause front brakes to fail? I just don't understand it, but I have the opposite, my '86 tintop blew a front hard line, and there are no hydraulic brakes. It confuses me, since there are supposed to be failsafes that keep that from happening.

I do have an early T3, an 83.5 so I have a rough idea about the layout. I have never even tried to fire it up, and really don't want to until I have the time and resources, and all my other T3's and KG and Notch up and running. So, that will put me in my 70's at least...

The "Module" you are referencing could be the "computer" or ECU, or it could be a relay. E1 will know that much better than me, but I can snap photos of mine if you need, too.

As others have said, Welcome! We are glad you are here, and we are here to offer help (or at least try to keep you from going entirely the wrong way, if we can)

-bobby

You're right, I will not know what I have until I dig in and verify. I'm solely going off the PO's information. As for the brakes, the PO said the line was broke and all the fluid drained. I didn't think to ask how the brake system is set up. If it blew out over the fuel tank, that would be front brakes only? It could also be that since it sat so long, the rears bled down as well? I have no clue.

The module is not the ECU because I looked up what one would cost if I had to replace and I know by the images I saw, that was not what was mentioned. I'll snap a picture and attach it later.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:28 pm

That's a good looking van!

1984 was pre-clear coat so that paint will buff out nicely if you need a diversion from the safety work that needs to be at the top of the priority list.

AutoVentures in Wisconsin Dells is localish and may be a good Vanagon resource for you at some point. They do focus on Subie conversions so ignore that part of their business if you're sticking with the wbx.

That driver's seat has a very odd wear pattern. I wonder if a pup co-piloted from that position. Seat covers, reupholstering or replacement seats (Vanagon, Euorvan, Chrysler Town and Country, etc.) are options.

Never put passenger tires on a Vanagon, only tires with a load rating that meets specs. Handling suffers greatly with passenger car tires.

Have fun!

Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:35 pm

jimf909 wrote: That's a good looking van!

1984 was pre-clear coat so that paint will buff out nicely if you need a diversion from the safety work that needs to be at the top of the priority list.

AutoVentures in Wisconsin Dells is localish and may be a good Vanagon resource for you at some point. They do focus on Subie conversions so ignore that part of their business if you're sticking with the wbx.

That driver's seat has a very odd wear pattern. I wonder if a pup co-piloted from that position. Seat covers, reupholstering or replacement seats (Vanagon, Euorvan, Chrysler Town and Country, etc.) are options.

Never put passenger tires on a Vanagon, only tires with a load rating that meets specs. Handling suffers greatly with passenger car tires.

Have fun!

We're in Illinois but the family that owned it was originally in Wisconsin. I wondered about the tear in the seat as well. Thanks for mentioning the tires. I didn't think yet about load rating for handling.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:44 pm

cmyoch wrote:

Yes, I plan on spending some time in the FAQs to get more familiar. Since it has sat for so long, fuel lines, grounds, connectors, wires, etc. will all get looked over.

Just replace the fuel lines - this is a Vanagon essential item, there are several Vanagons lost each year due to fire

Use proper SAE Fuel line that handles ethanol and high fuel injection pressure R09
see: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7853748

Note: the hard plastic line is OK to leave.

All see: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9815809

Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:49 pm

"I'm Now Part Of The Vanagon Community!"

Be careful what you wish for :lol:

Luckily theres a very good parts network for these vans

I would probably drop the tank, clean it or replace, change the hoses on top (as well as the other fuel lines) clean the Ground trees
Change coolant and trans fluid as well as oil change
T

Thu Nov 06, 2025 2:08 pm

I thought about the brakes issue a while, and can offer this advice: get the full hard line kit and soft lines too. Get new rear cylinders, at the very least for the back end. The whole kit of rear brakes parts would be a better plan. It is possible to rebuild the front calipers, sometimes the older ones are not available or are so expensive, you'll poop. Anyway, rebuilding them is not complicated, it just takes time. Get them off and soaking in your favorite rust buster, like Kroil, or Liquid Wrench, or your own favorite. DON'T even try to put a wrench on the bleeders until you have soaked them for at least a month. While bathing them, find the rebuild kit, and as often as they are available, they are also out of stock, so get on the order ASAP. Reminds me, order new bleeder valves, they are not all that expensive, and you will most likely break the ones in the calipers, and have to carefully drill (left handed drill bits) then pick out the remaining threads when you get close. Then chase or tap to clean them up. Your Master Cylinder will also be shot. While it is possible to rebuild one of those too, it is far less expensive to purchase a new one (and a spare).

Oh, I don't know if you've heard, but the tintop with a sunroof is pretty desirable, there weren't all that many sold in the first place, and too many have been recycled.

Expect EVERY fastener to fight you, use plenty of your favorite penetrating fluid, start right away, and hit them all a few times over a couple weeks.

I absolutely LOVE that you are going to make this a family endeavor. My three kids, well, now they are young adults, have loved wrenching with me on our fleet. Its been an excellent thing to engage them in, and I feel so much better when they take one of ours on weeks long trips.

Just one more thing tho. Compression testing on a cold engine can show vastly different numbers than on a warm one.

Hope things go well, cheers!!

-bobby

Thu Nov 06, 2025 3:08 pm

cmyoch wrote: E1 wrote: Oh My Gods, WHAT HAVE YOU DONE??? :lol:

Welcome to the Busylum, where being sane is a massive disadvantage.

Digijet was used through the 1985 model year, Digifant after and through 1992 (they were only imported to here through 1991).

While many if not most new owners choose a more-maintained van, perhaps you’ve done you and your son right here. It’s typical otherwise to replace stuff as necessary, whereas your learning curve — though steep — will have you summiting much earlier… and it’ll be a great bonding adventure in offering deep experience.

All meaning, COOL and WELCOME!

PM me anytime I can help.

The PO kept mentioning Digijet. I need to research what I really have in our possession. We are a glutton for punishment with older vehicles that we have to learn the hard way. BUT, this is also our education moving forward.
Sorry if I confused… Yes, Digijet indeed came on ‘84 vans and is almost certainly what’s on yours. Pretty rare that it’s been swapped to Digifant, unless it’s been converted to a 2.1 engine — and rare even then.

A clue is it having a square air filter box — which you have. Another is it having an idle stabilizer on driver’s side firewall, in green (stock), gray (not sure), or black (aftermarket). The Bentley will show what that looks like.

Thu Nov 06, 2025 4:04 pm

cmyoch wrote: jimf909 wrote: That's a good looking van!

1984 was pre-clear coat so that paint will buff out nicely if you need a diversion from the safety work that needs to be at the top of the priority list.

AutoVentures in Wisconsin Dells is localish and may be a good Vanagon resource for you at some point. They do focus on Subie conversions so ignore that part of their business if you're sticking with the wbx.

That driver's seat has a very odd wear pattern. I wonder if a pup co-piloted from that position. Seat covers, reupholstering or replacement seats (Vanagon, Euorvan, Chrysler Town and Country, etc.) are options.

Never put passenger tires on a Vanagon, only tires with a load rating that meets specs. Handling suffers greatly with passenger car tires.

Have fun!

We're in Illinois but the family that owned it was originally in Wisconsin. I wondered about the tear in the seat as well. Thanks for mentioning the tires. I didn't think yet about load rating for handling.
Years ago there used to be some VW salvage yards in the St Louis MO area and surrounding areas, but they're probably long gone.
The little module you wondered about is probably exactly as E1 suggested, the Idle Stabilization Module, designed to use Timing of the Engine to control Idle speed. You can have the connectors plugged into each other that go to it, and the Vanagon should still start and run , since that's how you set the Timing on the engine, bypassing the Module, then plugging it back in once you're set on Timing.
Loss of Spark, Hall effect unit inside the Distributor, connector or wires for it as well.
Kind of rare to lose the Ign Coil on the Earlier Digijet Vans, but yours can be tested with a Multi-Meter regardless.

Ignition switches go bad, so you can start with checking you HAVE power to the Coil, Terminal 15 on the Coil, with the Key ON. No power to the coil?
Buy a Bentley Manual or use the Technical Pull Down Menu at the Top Right of the Samba page to scroll to your '84/'85 Wiring Diagram.

Ground points that are critical on your engine , besides the main engine ground at the nose of your transmission- more on that later
On Top of the Drivers Cyl head, you should see a mass of Brown wires bolted to the head- harder to see if the A/C compressor is installed, but there, regardless. Usually a wire, or braided cable comes off this connection point and goes over to under the Ign Coil. Both bolted connections need to be corrosion free.
Sometimes it's easier to sand a little paint off around the threads of the body nut/sheet metal under the coil, getting to bare metal , and make that carry your grounding, versus relying on the rusted threads of the stock body nut to still work.

Welcome to the Samba..... 8)