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Mon Nov 10, 2025 9:09 am

I'm looking for advice on installing a Vanistan Seat tilt kit in a 89 westy. I'm looking for advice from anyone who has done this modification and any photos you might have.

I'm scared about getting out the angle grinder and cutting things out as it is a one way street.

I want to do this modification to access the space under the to add charge controller ... and or LiFe battery electronics. I will put this on the left seat (I know I will need to slide the seat off to be able to tilt the swivel up).

Mon Nov 10, 2025 9:11 am

I've done this install on a passenger seat.

Have you asked the vendor? if so, what did Chris say?

Mon Nov 10, 2025 9:34 am

Has anyone posted a YouTube Video on doing the kit yet? I haven't searched for you, was just wondering out loud. :-k :-k

Mon Nov 10, 2025 12:02 pm

RicMcK wrote: I'm scared about getting out the angle grinder and cutting things out as it is a one way street.

Not true. Cuts can be re-welded. Especially under the seat. Nobody is going to judge you for what they cannot see under the seat.

Except I will likely receive judgement because I was perhaps a little too enamored with my mod. I made my (passenger) seat tip sideways and have since come to realize that tipping forward is (likely) better. So I’m gonna cut that sideways stuff off and redesign for forward. Then I’m gonna find out if I like it better.

RicMcK wrote: I want to do this modification to access the space under the to add charge controller ... and or LiFe battery electronics. I will put this on the left seat (I know I will need to slide the seat off to be able to tilt the swivel up).
I recommend that you cut the swivel off, then make it simply “bolt on”.
With easy access to the bolts.
I suspect unbolting could be easier than sliding the seat off the track.

There’s something to be said for doing the same mod on the passenger side too.

Wed Nov 12, 2025 4:58 pm

I installed one on the passenger side.

It was possibly the most unnecessarily challenging projects I have experienced.

I emailed rewritten directions that I thought might help future installers. My edits were not well received or even discussed. I even offered to make a video of the proper install being done on my driver’s side.
I think the genuinely constructive criticism hit on a bad day. But i also got a bit frustrated and said fuck this.

Sorry I deleted my notes. They are probably in an old email or maybe on facebook vanagon technical depository group.

I do like having the space because I moved my start battery elsewhere. Then I metered that space with the under seat storage. It is the only solution I ever found for a huge cast iron pan.

Good luck. Reach out if you still need a hand. (Lots of guys have helped me plenty and I owe)

Wed Nov 12, 2025 5:33 pm

So From what I understand this is were I should cut the pedestal (white lines). does this look correct? The extra holes in the pedestal are to see and mount my BlueSeas battery isolator/switch.

Fri Nov 14, 2025 2:01 pm

Rick,
Those lines are correct.

Here are tips.

You must grind as close to the track tabs as possible, even if you shave a little
off the inside of each tab, that is better than leaving too much extra on the van.

I used a grinder. I wish that I used a tool with a finer kerf. Not sure that term is the right one. But I wish I removed less material with the cut itself.

Ultimately, the base that you are removing must be cut to be as WIDE as possible. If it is cut too narrow, then when you mount the hinges, you will need to add spacers to the hinges that connect the mount to the base.
I did not know this, so I started to straighten my sides (removing even more material) then I said…maybe I should fit this first, then uninstall to clean up and paint. Good thing I did that.

You can see in the photos that I cut the base too narrow because I figured it was a rough cut. The directions were not clear as to why or where the cut should be.

If this helps you, I will be all stoked up.

Fri Nov 14, 2025 6:44 pm

ROKE. THANK YOU for the Great advice, including the videos and photos. I'm planning on using the thinnest cut off blade I can find to cut the welds out. I see the importance of trying to keep the base plate as wide as possible. And it's great to know the washer- spacers thing worked, in case it is too narrow.

Thanks a bunch

Fri Nov 14, 2025 11:47 pm

Don't shoot sparks at carpet.
Each spark will melt several thread loops and you will make a bald-spot instantly.

I used videos from GoWesty website how to cut out the swivel.

Sat Nov 15, 2025 11:25 am

I was at Go Westy years ago buying sone parts for my Westy conversion and one of the items was a base for a seat rotater. They actually had a plywood shield built that drops in place while they use a cutoff wheel to syoo sparks from hitting the carpet and glass.

Sat Nov 15, 2025 11:57 am

Thanks for the heads up about the sparks. I will do my best to cover up the carpets before I at it.

Sun Nov 16, 2025 7:32 am

I set up some cardboard boxes and damp towels. All around. Cover everything in site so it's not a concern and you can concentrate.

I skipped some basics about grinding like spark protection. But since this might get searched years from now by a beginner, here are other pointers.

Wear safety glasses. If the wheel dismantles, fragments travel faster than any Vanagon ever has. Gloves with wrist coverage is a good call for this reason too.

It's a good idea to keep the guard on. Although, it is a pain at times. I don't even know where mine is.

Use the proper wheel for the job.

Ideally, cut so the wheel pulls along the cut.

Let the wheel spin up before cutting. Pull away from the steelbefore slowing down.

Cut for 5-10 seconds, then cool for 2-3 seconds. Use light pressure. It's not a handsaw.

Two hands are better than one. Even though the tools are light, it can kick.

Sun Nov 16, 2025 7:58 am

Don't forget to cover the glass as well.

Mon Nov 17, 2025 10:51 am

16CVs wrote: I was at Go Westy years ago buying sone parts for my Westy conversion and one of the items was a base for a seat rotater. They actually had a plywood shield built that drops in place while they use a cutoff wheel to syoo sparks from hitting the carpet and glass. I've seen that Plywood shield in their Video for working with the Seat Base/Swivel system... 8) 8)

Mon Nov 17, 2025 11:19 am

Rorke wrote: I set up some cardboard boxes and damp towels. All around. Cover everything in site so it's not a concern and you can concentrate.

I skipped some basics about grinding like spark protection. But since this might get searched years from now by a beginner, here are other pointers.

Wear safety glasses. If the wheel dismantles, fragments travel faster than any Vanagon ever has. Gloves with wrist coverage is a good call for this reason too.

It's a good idea to keep the guard on. Although, it is a pain at times. I don't even know where mine is.

Use the proper wheel for the job.

Ideally, cut so the wheel pulls along the cut.

Let the wheel spin up before cutting. Pull away from the steelbefore slowing down.

Cut for 5-10 seconds, then cool for 2-3 seconds. Use light pressure. It's not a handsaw.

Two hands are better than one. Even though the tools are light, it can kick.

All good advice, but I'd add to use a face shield if you have one. your eyes are not the only think you'll want to protect from those sparks.

Mon Nov 17, 2025 2:12 pm

Thanks for all the advice, it's bee super helpful.

It was a success :)
I taped off the carpet around the Pedestal
Made a cardboard box to fit as best I could
Used the thinnest cutoff wheel I could find
Went SLOW

It wasn't perfect, but good enough :) The left hinge is not as straight as I would like it, but it seems to work fine.

Now I need to clean everything up, paint, final assembly, wringing upgrades (Blue Seas 120A breaker, and new cable), 12V relay for fridge setup.

Next, will be lengthening (deeper) the battery box.

Tue Nov 18, 2025 4:22 am

RicMcK wrote: Thanks for all the advice, it's bee super helpful.

It was a success :)
I taped off the carpet around the Pedestal
Made a cardboard box to fit as best I could
Used the thinnest cutoff wheel I could find
Went SLOW

It wasn't perfect, but good enough :) The left hinge is not as straight as I would like it, but it seems to work fine.

Now I need to clean everything up, paint, final assembly, wringing upgrades (Blue Seas 120A breaker, and new cable), 12V relay for fridge setup.

Next, will be lengthening (deeper) the battery box.

I don’t remember the driver’s swivel in our 82 camper being so welded in. Because I was removing my swivel, it was very important not to damage the factory seat tracks. I’m remembering maybe 4 stitch welds near each corner. Maybe it was changed in production.

Tue Nov 18, 2025 8:00 am

Post some pictures when you get seat installed. Interested in how far it will tilt forward before hitting steering wheel. That will be a great use of space.

Wed Nov 19, 2025 9:19 am

Rick,

Very nice job.

It your seat swiveling smoothly?

Mine has clearance issues. So I have to really force-tilt the seat to clear.

I feel like I have many hours to go on this install. All of which could have been avoided with improvements to the instructions and a slight modification to the product. Overall, it is clever and functional. Surely, anyone could do a very nice job on their third install. Haha.

Wed Nov 19, 2025 10:09 am

Is it my eye? The parts don’t appear square to each other. Also, is this mod DOT approved? In an accident it is important the seat doesn’t detach. The restraint system depends on the seat being secure.