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  View original topic: sound insulation on main floor?
RicMcK Fri Nov 14, 2025 6:21 pm

I'm starting my winter projects which requires removing the cabinets. Projects include: Closet sliding doors, minor rot repair behind the stove-fridge cabinet, minor wiring upgrades, seat tilt kit, headliner, and side wall insulation (sound and thermal)...

I'm looking at the main floor and see that there is NO sound proofing or insulation. It looks like there is the factory plywood (8-10mm thick) with stick-on vinyl planks on top.

I want to try to keep the stack-up height close to the same height when I'm done. This is what I'm thinking of doing. The valleys are about 3/8" deep.

Remove old floor and prep the area. Apply mass loaded sticky mats over the entire floor (on the ribs and valleys), add a second layer in the valleys. Then add 1/4" ridged foam in the valleys, this will hopefully make a fairly flat surface, Then put down a full size piece of 1/4" foam topped with a piece of 5mm plywood and some kind of vinyl flooring.

Does this sound OK, or a bad idea? Any suggestions?



Thanks

SCM Fri Nov 14, 2025 6:53 pm

My opinion is that a lot of noise is due to large flat panels flexing like the top of a drum - things like exterior door panels. The floor is ribbed so more rigid than a flat panel. It also already has, as you noted, plywood and carpet - all great sound deadeners. Not even to mention exterior dampers like undercoating, and heavy stuff attached to it (propane tank, various hoses).

I have sound deadening mat on the inside of my front doors, slider, rear hatch, kitchen wall, and under the bench seat. My front doors now make a satisfying “clunk” when I close them but I honestly can’t say I notice less noise while driving.

I personally wouldn’t bother with the floor but, then again, I like knowing and feeling that I’m driving an old vehicle. When I want it quiet I take a modern car.

RicMcK Fri Nov 14, 2025 7:37 pm

Yes, and. I've sound proofed the front doors and front end and the sliding door. With the mass loaded sticky mats and soft foam. Yes it has made it much better. Now that I have the cabinets out I will sound proof and thermal insulate the entire left side, the right rear panel and rear hatch, and the cab headliner area.

You bring up a good point about the stiffness - sound thing on floor, on the main floor. Adding Insulation may not do much, I just don't know.

zerotofifty Sat Nov 15, 2025 9:41 am

a 1/2 cm wood floor over foam maybe subject to flexing or even puncture. Id go with thicker. For insulation, carpet is very nice. make it easy to remove for ease of cleaning. or top with throw rugs.
I think it is important to have easy access to the metal floor for ability to dry spilled water and such for rust prevention. trapped water on the steel floor can be a real rust issue.

VicVan Sat Nov 15, 2025 4:30 pm

How about a rubber mat? 3/8 or 1/4". Did anybody try that?

RicMcK Sat Nov 15, 2025 6:57 pm

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm in the PNW (read rainy & wet). I think carpet would be messy. The vinyl plank floor works great for these conditions. However, yes carpet can be a great sound deading layer.

PS: what are folks using for the fresh water hose (the wire reinforced green one 34mm)? I had to cut mine off to get the tank out.

Rick

dublife13 Sat Nov 15, 2025 8:07 pm

PNW here also. I have the glued-down rubber/plastic? floor, it might be original or done by the previous owner, not sure. I have an area rug that is close to the size of the main floor. It was cheap, so if it gets ruined, ill get another one, but it has made it 5 years, I just shake it out, vacuum it, hose it off every once and a while. I use an outdoor mat outside the door to help trap some debris from getting inside. I tend not to use my van for a whole lot in the wet seasons, also, I don't enjoy camping in the rain and cold all that much.

If I remember correctly, I used hoses from Gowesty to update my water system.
https://gowesty.com/products/flex-line-hose?srslti...6711281829



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