TheSamba.com :: View topic - Suggest a ball valve for this heater hose?

Mon Dec 15, 2025 9:49 am

Not a Vanagon but I added an electric shut off valve the last time I modified the rad on my Subaru swap.

It works great and I tied it into the fresh air vent switch/button on the 2nd control unit so no additional buttons on the dash. I didn't use a relay as the valve is motorized versus induction coil operated so it only uses less than an amp (200mA) and then shuts off once the valve is open or closed.

Maybe this might work for your needs.

Mon Dec 15, 2025 11:25 am

I've been using similar electric valves in different applications for a few years and it seems it would be easier to add one of them with a simple on/off switch than trying to install a valve with the oem style push/pull cable.

As mentioned, the motorized version is the one to get because the current draw is momentary, the solenoid operated valves draw current for as long as they're open and any have a duty cycle so avoid those for this application.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9LWXMW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_8&th=1

Mon Dec 15, 2025 11:52 am

Van den Broke wrote: dobryan, could you post the part number of the Ford valve you showed in your earlier post?

Here you go.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2UVVO?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3

Tue Dec 16, 2025 12:04 pm

realize that this valve continuously powers to remain open... essentially the motor stalls in the fully open position and then a spring returns the valve to closed when power is removed. this isn't necessarily bad, just be aware. from the text from the Amazon squib:

"2 WIRE AUTOMATIC RETURN SETUP- Simple two wire connection, valve largely de-energizes after opening; Returns to fully closed if power is removed "

not sure exactly what "largely de-energizes" means, maybe a hold open solenoid that takes less power than the motor. but it is consuming power to hold open. typical 2 wire HVAC dampers just stall the motor out, this seems to be a somewhat different mechanism.

jimf909 wrote: I've been using similar electric valves in different applications for a few years and it seems it would be easier to add one of them with a simple on/off switch than trying to install a valve with the oem style push/pull cable.

As mentioned, the motorized version is the one to get because the current draw is momentary, the solenoid operated valves draw current for as long as they're open and any have a duty cycle so avoid those for this application.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9LWXMW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_8&th=1

Tue Dec 16, 2025 1:28 pm

I recently installed this one in the location pictured. I removed the glovebox, and the plastic cowl for install. It was a piece of cake and works great.

https://www.amazon.com/PEX-Ball-Valve-Temperature-...i&th=1

Tue Dec 16, 2025 2:54 pm

DanHoug wrote: realize that this valve continuously powers to remain open... essentially the motor stalls in the fully open position and then a spring returns the valve to closed when power is removed. this isn't necessarily bad, just be aware. from the text from the Amazon squib:

"2 WIRE AUTOMATIC RETURN SETUP- Simple two wire connection, valve largely de-energizes after opening; Returns to fully closed if power is removed "

not sure exactly what "largely de-energizes" means, maybe a hold open solenoid that takes less power than the motor. but it is consuming power to hold open. typical 2 wire HVAC dampers just stall the motor out, this seems to be a somewhat different mechanism.

I always love your insights. I think you're close but not 100% correct.

Here's my understanding of this valve and why it may be a good choice for a heater valve (recommend going to the mfr. site to shop for the best option):
- Valve is normally closed (can also be purchased normally open)
- When activated the motor opens the valve
- After opening, a capacitor is charged which powers the auto-close when power to the valve is cut, i.e. not a spring
- The power consumed after opening is nill to minimal
- The benefits of this vs. a solenoid operated valve: current draw while open is minimal vs. 17 watts for a similar solenoid valve; there is no duty cycle for this type of valve compared to the duty cycle of 20 minutes rest for every 5 hours and max operating time of 8 hours; life expectancy of 80K - 100K is far greater than a solenoid valve.

Here's the mgr's product page:
https://ussolid.com/products/u-s-solid-motorized-b...&_ss=c
- This model opens and closes in 3-5 seconds, and remains in its new position while expending almost no energy. This is a key difference between motorized ball valves and many solenoid valves. Most solenoid valves are energized continuously when in a new position, while motorized ball valves expend energy only when changing from open to close, or vice versa.
The 2 wire auto return model is perfect for situations where the valve needs to be closed in case of power loss. The valve can be energized to open, and left hooked up, with negligible energy used once fully opened. To close, simply shutoff power to the valve. This valve is convenient because it can be operated with a simple on off switch. When on, it will remain open, when turned off (or power is lost for some other reason) the valve automatically closes.
- 5.For auto return valves, what is the minimum On-Time required for electrical storage to enable closing when power off?
To ensure automatic reset functionality when the power is disconnected, it is essential to power the device for approximately one minute to charge the capacitor in 2-wire auto return motorized ball valves.
1. For 2-wire reverse polarity and 3-wire models, the valve is de-energized when fully open or closed. Other models may use a negligible amount of power when fully open, and the 5-wire model uses energy when closed to keep indicator lights operational. Refer to the specifications sheet for detailed information.

A similar solenoid valve from the same mfr. noting duty cycle of 5 hours on and 20 minutes off with a max on period of 8 hours:
https://ussolid.com/products/1-2-solenoid-valve-br...&_ss=c

I've never installed one in van but I use them to open/close fuel flow in a propane generator with auto-start functionality. If the stars align I'll put an amp clamp on one when it's open to see the current draw.

Tue Dec 16, 2025 3:29 pm

thanks for the clarification and info, Jim. i learnt something!! cool it uses a capacitor to close the valve. yeah, energy to keep a cap charged is near nil. thanks for digging up the manufacturer info.

Tue Dec 16, 2025 3:37 pm

Or use the 3 wire one as it uses power to open and then doesn't use any power again until you press the button to close it and it closes and disconnects the power again.

Only uses 200mA max while the ball is turning.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/292031256191

Tue Dec 16, 2025 9:39 pm

Shonandb wrote: Or use the 3 wire one as it uses power to open and then doesn't use any power again until you press the button to close it and it closes and disconnects the power again.

Only uses 200mA max while the ball is turning.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/292031256191

That's even better for this application.

I wanted the auto-close feature if power was lost so the propane flow would be stopped which isn't relevant here.

Wed Dec 17, 2025 6:21 am

Thanks for the link to the ball valve, Jlrftype7. I'll have to order one. By the way, A tip of the hat to you living in Chicago. I lived in the northern suburbs (Waukegan and Lake Bluff) in the 1980s, and found the winter weather as unpleasant as could be. When my Job pivoted, I split for warmer climes. I shiver just thinking about it!

Sat Dec 20, 2025 10:30 pm

Thanks, this fixes it:

Yesterday 9:40 am

Those hose clamps work in a pinch, but better clamps have a smooth ID that prevents cutting into the hose over time.

Yesterday 12:11 pm

I've been contemplating the ball valve mod for years but my mind keeps drifting towards using a gate valve instead. Thinking I'd make a metal. Bracket for it that I'd screw or rivet to the hump. Having it secured would keep from stressing the hose clamps.

Yesterday 4:51 pm

MarkWard wrote: Those hose clamps work in a pinch, but better clamps have a smooth ID that prevents cutting into the hose over time. Thanks, I’ll upgrade sometime in the future. Will probly have to take the hoses off to do it, which I’m not looking forward to.

Yesterday 5:25 pm

Gnarlodious wrote: MarkWard wrote: Those hose clamps work in a pinch, but better clamps have a smooth ID that prevents cutting into the hose over time. Thanks, I’ll upgrade sometime in the future. Will probly have to take the hoses off to do it, which I’m not looking forward to. No need - just fully unwind both the old and new clamps (get the ones that are NOT stamped all the way through), pull the old clamps off, and fit the new ones around the hoses in situ.

Today 3:16 pm

alaskadan wrote: I've been contemplating the ball valve mod for years but my mind keeps drifting towards using a gate valve instead. Thinking I'd make a metal. Bracket for it that I'd screw or rivet to the hump. Having it secured would keep from stressing the hose clamps. Do keep in mind that the design of most Gate valves means the packing around the stem is one more leak point compared to a Ball Valve. :-k :-k