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Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:09 pm

i like this becuase it's cheap, but there are other options if you have the cash.

http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw.html?frame=1.6043&searched=power%20window%20kit

and while your there why not this and wire it up to your remote alarms system and you vw is rolling 1995 style.
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-1-0-6332.html

Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:23 pm

Has Anybody ever tried or thought about making the back windows movable? like the rear four, and maybe the back hatch too. i was thinking about it and wondered if i took the time to install power windows, should i try making them move up n down. it just gets SO hot here in seatte i cant stand sitting in my non moveable bus for to long and the vent windows can only do so much. :lol: :P :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:07 pm

Just for an experiment. Open your rear hatch and drive a couple of blocks and you will see why having a movable rear window is a bad idea. :wink:

Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:33 am

Not sure which windows you're talking about...
I've made the louvered windows movable as well.
After I installed the BMW solution on my own bus, I help another guy do the same who had previously installed the JC whitney kit(was way to weak for front windows)
As a thank you he gave me his old JC Whitney kit. I modified it to move the louvered windows.
Works just fine. Main reason i did this, is that leaving these windows open on the highway will ruin them. I got tired of forgetting to close them after camping, then pulling over on the side of the highway to close them.
Right now I just have a switch between the front seats, need to add another switch next to the windows themselves.
(currently only have drivers side working, still need to figure out how to get power to the sliding door)

Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:45 pm

vw-traveller wrote: Not sure which windows you're talking about...
I've made the louvered windows movable as well.
After I installed the BMW solution on my own bus, I help another guy do the same who had previously installed the JC whitney kit(was way to weak for front windows)
As a thank you he gave me his old JC Whitney kit. I modified it to move the louvered windows.
Works just fine. Main reason i did this, is that leaving these windows open on the highway will ruin them. I got tired of forgetting to close them after camping, then pulling over on the side of the highway to close them.
Right now I just have a switch between the front seats, need to add another switch next to the windows themselves.
(currently only have drivers side working, still need to figure out how to get power to the sliding door)

Use a set of these:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PAI0/40023.oap?pt=N0955&ppt=C0150

They go on frame and door side jambs so the press up against each other when the door is closed. The contacts are spring mounted, so they 'float' a little. Obviously, the motor is only connected when the door is closed.

Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:52 pm

Wild Bill wrote: Thought I would revive this old thread to see if anyone has done this upgrade lately?

I plan on doing the same upgrade except rig the up and down switch to work with the original window winder.
You know it looks like the old manual system but a slight up or down on the handle makes the electric motor work. (Saw it like that on Barrett Jackson Auction 55 Chevy)
Any thoughts on the easiest and most effective way to make it work properly? (Other than just leaving stock).
Thanks

Like this? Pricey. But that's how they do it. $100 each.

http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc=electricwindowcrank

Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:55 pm

vw-traveller can you post pics and a quick how to on your power louveres? I;d loove to do that mod.

Also, I found a 83 BMW with the exact same rear power window setup, pictured in the 86, i hope it will work, ill let you all know.

I seem to be missing the part of the wiring, i have the 2 switches with 5 metal tabs on the back, and the the motors with the black and blue wiring. but no other wiring. Can i make it work?

Sun Jul 18, 2010 9:09 pm

so cool...just added to my list as well.

Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:04 pm

FRUSTRATED!!!!!

SOB!!!! Where the hell is the little screw for the weatherstrip? I finally managed to get all the pieces (motors, wiring, switches) but I cannot for the life of me get the damn crank out. Got everything unscrewed, got window dropped and actually mangled the damn felt so bad on the window side (vertical piece lining channel parallel to the wind wing) i'm gonna have to replace it. Really hoping someone will post detailed instructions on how to remove the crank and regulator.

Sat Jul 31, 2010 9:26 pm

Ok found screw under felt. For those wondering its under the top portion near the upright of the windwing main window side, easiest method is to flex the felt window insert about midway along the top, this will allow you to pop out the whole top portion with the metal clips still intact, assuming you still have the clips. You can then proceed with removing the weatherstipping andsliding the windwind upand out at an angle to make a gap to free the window crank.

I know have a knew dilema, the crank i took was from an 83 BMW, and looks exactly the same as the one in the OP pics, accept the wiring. It has the black and blue wires that go to the motor, then another 3, one which is Yellow/Black, one which is Blue/Green, and one which is Green/Blue. When i ground the Black/Yellow wire and give power to the Blue/green, the motor turns automatically and will stop if either button is pressed (up or down). When the Green/Blue (slightly thinner gauge btw) is given power only the down button works. Same behavior on both motors (was assuming i mayby had a bad motor).

Any Ideas on that years wiring?

Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:28 pm

G'day all. read this post a while ago. My son worked for a BMW dismantler & sent these to me for fathers day. so here's where I'm up to. I changed the system for clamping the tube to the motor worked out well. don't know how to load video so I have it on youtube under title T2vw bus BMW electric window conversion
ernie

Thu Sep 18, 2014 3:39 pm

There you go. :D

Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:02 pm

G'day all. Thankyou chrisradioman for doing that I have just sorted it out for future use
ernie

Sat Sep 20, 2014 1:58 pm

ernie norley wrote: G'day all. Thankyou chrisradioman for doing that I have just sorted it out for future use
ernie
No problem pal. :)

Sat Sep 20, 2014 6:28 pm

=D>

Great vid Ernie - helps take some of the stupid out of the conversion for me :lol:

Sat Sep 20, 2014 9:43 pm

Gday all. westyracer started me on this path for fast glass. his thread was really informative. I did this video as a follow up to his thread. notchboy VWdubbers never ask or have stupid question. If you have alook at my 4x4 T2 conversion then you can ask stupid questions.
ernie

Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:18 am

G'day all here's another video hope it helps anyone doing the swap
ernie

Fri Jan 15, 2016 10:46 pm

Took me a few tries, but I was able to find an aftermarket part number. If someone can translate that into a BMW part number that would make this project much easier (because these are out of stock everywhere)

Sat Jan 16, 2016 9:16 am

86 3 series

51 33 1 386 987, Window Motor front left

51 33 1 386 988, Window Motor front right

#s above direct from ISTA

https://oss.bmw.de/index.jsp

Mon Apr 03, 2017 9:31 pm

So I did this mod yesterday and there was one thing I didn't realize until I was balls deep in the project. If you want to use the mounting bolts on the motors, you can't use the method outlined above where you trim the old regulator and use it to lock the tube down.

First are couple of shots of removing the vent wing, which has to be done.
Removing lower bolt

pry back felt and remove screw. Tab can be bent and window tipped back. Also good to remove the spring clip felt retainer

This I why you must at least lift up the vent. See the tube running between the mount and the lower part of the vent frame?

You can get away just raising it up a bit, like so

OK here is the issue. Here is the right door regulator. See the locating nubs on the tube. They face into the bus when it's installed.

Now if you install the tube with the nubs facing out so that you can put your newly made retainer plate on, then bolt on the cover.... see the problem. The regulator mounting bolts are pointing out from the bus, not in.
(This is the left door, but same applies)

(Here is the right side one) Mounting studs pointing out.
From the first posts it looks like the OP set it up with the nubs facing in to the motor, that way the mounting bolts could be used. Down side was the tube wasn't secure, needed bending or welding. In this second method, just so others are aware (I sure didn't notice) you will have to mount the motors differently (that's what I did) or maybe you could try to grind new pockets into the back of the motor housing to accept the nubs so they can point inwards.
Anyway just a PSA.
I just did this.