mightyart |
Mon Jan 24, 2005 8:54 am |
|
Ok I've started really messing with the heating, after replacing the leaky exhaust I still have a hint of exhaust in the heat. I bought new
manafold gaskets for the heat exchangers, and was going to remount them, after a good cleaning and inspection I noticed a few pin holes and a dent with a slice, ect. So I've decided to replace with new, also get the correct flapperboxes, I've got two different ones. So here is the question
what brand of exchanges should I look for, What else should I buy If I'm doing the whole thing, Should I get the heat exchangers powder coated or
Paint with header paint, or just leave them alone. Colin if you read this I may save this project till you get to this neck of the woods, so I can get it right. |
|
DurocShark |
Mon Jan 24, 2005 9:33 am |
|
Here's who you want to talk to about ceramic coating:
Stan Wilder
Engine Ceramics
214-352-4931
www.engineceramics.com |
|
mightyart |
Mon Jan 24, 2005 9:44 am |
|
That's who I was going to take them to. Just haven't contacted him yet. |
|
ratwell |
Mon Jan 24, 2005 12:58 pm |
|
mightyart wrote: So here is the question
what brand of exchanges should I look for?
Dansk/JPGroup is the only brand available unless you find a NOS one someplace.
Quote: Should I get the heat exchangers powder coated or
Paint with header paint, or just leave them alone.
Leave them alone: it worked but VW but look at the exhaust you have to deal with now? My opinion is always fix it right for another 25 years.
Powder Coating: based on my temperature measurements you could do it safely but I don't know anyone who has done it.
Paint: Use POR-15 high-temp. If you paint this yourself it will be the cheapest long term solution IMHO.
Cermanic coating: looks the nicest but doubles the cost of your exhaust system. |
|
mightyart |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 7:52 am |
|
That's what I wanted to know, I'm not making a show car or anything.
New is the best time to coat something like this, I thought the may get to hot for paint. I may try some header paint, would just burn off if it didn't work. I'd like to get rid of the "surface rust" look they have after a few months, but you're right, these I'm sure are 25 years old and are for the most part solid. |
|
pawesty |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:52 am |
|
thses were cleaned,degreased,scuffed, and sprayed with por 15 manifold grey. still look good at 7k miles. took less than 2 hours to get it all done less the drying time.
dave[/url] |
|
Duncwarw |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:18 am |
|
Art, funny you should bring this up.
I found this page a couple of days ago and found it interesting. Maybe you will too. http://www.centuryperformance.com/heatwraps.asp# |
|
mightyart |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 5:34 pm |
|
Thanks guys, I like the way Pawesty's looks, that was what I was after.
I just want them to age well. I used header wrap along time ago when it was the "thing" to do on headers. What I remember the most was how much it cost for the amount of header you had to cover, so I only used it once. :lol:
Thanks for the link, Ceramic coating looks nice, with the climate here, I don't need the insulation really. I wonder how easy it would be to chip the ceramic coating under there?
I think I'll try paint, so where would one purchase por 15? |
|
ratwell |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 5:45 pm |
|
mightyart wrote: I think I'll try paint, so where would one purchase por 15?
Call POR-15 and find out who your local distributor is. www.por15.com will have their contact information. |
|
Duncwarw |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 5:45 pm |
|
I guess there must be vendors out there selling it, but here's Restomotive Labs' site: http://www.por15.com
I'm sure Colin can tell you how hot they get, but the regular POR is good for 600 degrees. As Richard points out, go for the hi-temp option. I used a header paint that's supposed to go to 1200 continuous, but who knows. The POR stuff seems to be bulletproof! |
|
Duncwarw |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 5:46 pm |
|
Damn Richard, you only got me by seconds that time! :D
I need a typing class... |
|
Miguel Arroyo |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 6:43 pm |
|
I just purchased from ISP West a german muffler and J Pipes. Both were ceramic coated and delivered for $160.00 including an installation kit. |
|
obieoberstar |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 7:45 pm |
|
the POR15 manifold grey is the way to go. the exhaust on my beetle looks great after 7 years. some discoloration in spots on the muffler.
the bus' exhaust got painted (after blasting and primer) with Duplicolor's Engine Enamel rattle can stuff. Color was New Ford Grey. it really makes the type3 and type4 fan housings look good after a little sanding. |
|
Sylvester |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 7:58 pm |
|
Does POR 15 for high temps have the ability to paint on an exchanger or muffler with rust already on it, or do they recommend getting it all off first? Sounds like if they recommend getting the rust off, then it shouldn't be called POR. |
|
visibleink |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:31 pm |
|
I'm pondering the same thing for my new german exhaust sitting in my bedroom and my heater boxes I don't have yet.
Guy on the type 2 list did the high temp powder coating thing and it looks great even after 15k miles. The cermanic ones are so friggin expensive it will knock yo socks off.
I'm going to do the high temp POR15 paint. I think it goes up to 1400 degrees. I haven't found any other high temp paint close to that, the ones in a spay can go up to 400 and will just flake off in a few days.
For the guy(s) that have already done the POR15 high temp stuff, did you spray or brush on? (It says you can do either) |
|
2jmotorsports |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:12 pm |
|
Well the normal POR paint flattens itself out very nicely if you brush it, I would think the high temp one should as well...id say test it out on a small piece of metal or a hidden section on your exhaust... |
|
obieoberstar |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:14 pm |
|
just brush it on. after it cures you will not be able to see the strokes. well, maybe if you don't look REALLY close. brushing is fine. |
|
ratwell |
Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:51 pm |
|
[email protected] wrote: I'm going to do the high temp POR15 paint. I think it goes up to 1400 degrees. I haven't found any other high temp paint close to that, the ones in a spay can go up to 400 and will just flake off in a few days.
It's all in the cleanliness of the prep and spray can jobs always requires multiple coats applied 72 hours apart to achieve any kind of longevity.
You can get spray paints that go to 1200F but the heat exchangers never get that hot.
Having said that, regular POR-15 will burn off the heatexchangers so you have to use their Factory Manifold Gray. It contains aluminum like their gas tank sealer and is super durable. You can paint it on thick and I think it will probably provide the best protection from snow/wetness. |
|
Greggyboy |
Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:41 am |
|
Why ceramic coat them? JUST rust protection or do you want better heat up front? Did anyone notice better heat up front after doing this? I really want to know. |
|
VWBusrepairman |
Wed Jan 26, 2005 6:43 am |
|
My heat exchangers look similar to those in the pic. Fortunately, the engine I took them from had massive oil leaks, so they were preserved from the oil contact. Sounds like some nice manifold paint might do the trick for longivity.
as for your "hint" of exhaust- did you use new brass rings where the manifold attaches to the head? Also new gaskets between each connection? It's bliss when the system is all sealed and the heat is actually nice.
Good luck! |
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|