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what am i missing, '79 deleux interior wiring/plugs/pieces
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:39 pm    Post subject: what am i missing, '79 deleux interior wiring/plugs/pieces Reply with quote

sooo i have the wiring diagram for the '79 aux battery connection i found here on another post and am trying to figure out what i need and if i'm going to have to cut and crimp new plugs and such because i have all male bits. soo yeah here's the pics let me know what i'm missing to complete every thing, the sink pump is mounted so not pictured.
BOTTOM LINE HOW DO I WIRE ALL OF THIS UP?

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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's like i don't have anything to connect anything else to, i don;t even have a starting point as to where to start the chain.
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jamesdagg
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which diagram? I have one but not on this computer.

Start by locating each component where you want it.

If the aux battery is in the engine compartment you might as well put the isolator relay there as well. It needs a heavy wire from each battery as well as a ground and a wire connected to the alt warning light wire from the regulator. (blue #61 IIRC)

Then run a heavy red wire from the aux battery to the control panel.

I need to see your diagram to go further.

Do you plan to use this setup for the fridge and battery charging only or do you want to incorporate a small fuse box for lights and other accessories?

Do you plan to use all 12 Volt accessories or use an energy wasting inverter? Do you have a 120 Volt to 12 Volt converter?

Those look like male spade connectors so you can easily use crimp on female connectors to make you own wires.

jim
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jamesdagg
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This diagram?

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jim
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey just got in, yeah that was the diagram i was speaking of. i want to have it all stock but i'm putting this in a '71 so i mean stock for '79 on locations ans wiring scheme, a best fit will do.

i already am running 1 gauge wire from the second battery into the spare compartment behind the refrigerator guts, the place under the switch for reffer,
for my inverter, i have plenty of cable to do this and wiring isn't hard i just need to know what i'm missing and what i need,i really mean pics sp i can got hunting also if there are home depot fixes that'd be cool to, linkys would be really cool, just to be clear i know what your talking about.
thanks alot!!!
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just looking at that wtf is r? is that relay? if so what kind? can i get that at hd? anyone got one aaaahhh! hehehe i wanna get this done i have all my cables cut and crimped for a massive wiring weekend, re-doing stereo (want it in glovebox now) adding another amp for single sub,cleaning up dual battery solenoid wiring, and cleaning up inverter wiring as well, i'd really like to get all of this done in one shot.

thanks again
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jamesdagg
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

R is the isolator relay. You can just buy a simple relay and do it yourself or this kit is convenient.

http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=16766&cat=&page=1

The diagram is strictly a fridge and battery charging circuit. The battery charger is primitive and that's why the timer is needed. Modern chargers are so much better. Inverters waste power. Better to go 12 Volt wherever possible.

You really should design your system from the ground up for your needs. You need to figure out what you will be doing etc.

Are you camping or road tripping? Do you want a micro wave? Coffee maker? Blender? The power system should be tailor made for efficiency.

Once you know your needs you need to rewire some circuits, like dome lights, to a new small fuse box for items running from the aux battery or shore power.

You can use a relay to switch the new fuse box automatically from alt to aux battery to shore power (120 to 12 Volt converter)

I included a buzzer that sounds if I start the engine while plugged in. Embarassed

Also if you want an accessory position for the ignition so you can listen to the stereo with the key off but have it go off when you remove the key, use the buzzer wire. Remove the buzzer, if you haven't already, and plug a male spade into the power wire for the buzzer. #85 IIRC. I can tell you which socket if you can't find it. The wire to it will be red or gray depending on the year. '77 is red.

A simple stereo will run fine with the yellow switched wire just plugged in here but if you have a high power unit use a relay as this is a low amp circuit.

Read this>

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=348688

jim
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah that's a bit labor intensive for me man, i'm pretty happy with the set up i got i'm used to sleeping in bivy sack for weeks straight this is all luxury to me Wink

i plan on having my stereo running off the 2nd battery with a simple toggle switch, the inverter running straight off the posts as well as the inverter has a fuse and i've added an industrial inline fuse as well,this is what i'm using for charging the batteries. all i'm really looking todo is get the fridge running and the shore power sockets working.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't the fridge 12 Volt? If so why the inverter with it's built in losses?

jim
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the inverter is purely for recharging my laptop and such, are also saying i could put a household 2 prong plug on the fridge and just plug it in my inverter? that would be cool, i'm really looking for the simplest way of doing this and the most cost effective,

just to reiterate my system,

i'll have my stereo running from a fuse block off the second battery to a toggle switch for power off and on, the inverter is running straight from the second battery, all of my gauges will be run off the same fuse block as the stereo..... that's where i'm at now, what i'm trying to do is get a sure power working and get the fridge to work period, i'm thinking now that i may need a converter for this but am unsure, from looking around i found out i'm missing that big grey box that lives under the bench seat, on the diagram above it's referred to as "transformer"

so again what i'm really looking for is cheap substitutes for the transformer,relay,breaker and timer, and am even wondering if i have the switch or not,. so if you know where to find these items and or where to get suitable replacements that would be sweet, i just don;t have the time money or skill to wire up the whole panel thing like you did, as i'm already $200 bucks down the path i'm on right now and really almost complete. again thanks alot for your help this is just a wierd thing i'm trying to get done here.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so yeah back to what am i missing here?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my homegrown voltage converter writeup:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=327864&highlight=homegrown+converter

looks exactly like what i had to start with- just the transformer. add a rectifier, a few caps, and a fan, and you are set.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

onion456 wrote:
my homegrown voltage converter writeup:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=327864&highlight=homegrown+converter

looks exactly like what i had to start with- just the transformer. add a rectifier, a few caps, and a fan, and you are set.


oh my god thank you!!! am going to look at it right now!
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so if i buy this unit

http://www.germansupply.com/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=17565

i will have everything i need for shore power and the fridge to work?
is this a plug and play deal? does the fridge plug directly into the unit?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes i believe so. you just want to be able to convert 120vAC to 12vDC, so when you plug in via shore power, you can power your 12v fridge and/or charge your aux battery. in theory, almost any 12v power supply would do as long as it can provide the current. the trouble is finding one suitable for the job, i believe germansupply's is it. scott can certainly tell you more about it than i can =)

and yes this is a way easier plug and play deal, its regulated and safe and all that good stuff. you will still want to look at your wiring and figure out whats what- i think the converter output will actually go to the panel, and the panel decides what voltage the fridge will use; converter or battery. i like the original westy fridge control panel on the wall, so i continue to use it. you could alternatively wire up some switches/relays/lights if you wanted to build your own control panel, whatever you want.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea i actually like the OG panel and really want to keep it cool little switch for battery on and off and such a charge meter and all of the rest, pretty cool! i'll be in touch with scott to order one of these in the next week or so,


i'm still a bit confused though, the plug should go into the back of the panel? where? i see no place for the plug from teh fridge to plug into.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Find out how many amps that converter puts out. It doesn't say in the ad. It may be only enough amps for the fridge and charging.

For similar money you can get a 30 or 40 amp unit that will run all your interior lights, fridge, stereo, 12V coffee maker, gas heater if you have one.

You can wire a simple relay that switches your aux fuse box over to shore power as soon as you plug in.

You should also include a switch to be able to charge either battery and the voltmeter should be connected so you can read either battery and even the converter voltage because it will fall off under load.

Definitely get a modern charger with auto rate control. You can still use the timer with it but it will cover your ass.

Funny thing about your laptop. You are inverting 12 Volts to 120, then there is a transformer in your laptop that converts it back down to what it runs on, maybe even 12 Volts. Each time you convert or invert there are losses. Can you not get a 12 Volt charger for your laptop?

Try to get all 12 Volt stuff except a couple of things you only use when plugged in to shore power. Usually things that make heat.(high amp)

Transformer is another name for converter. It converts 120V to a lower voltage, 12 Volts in this case. An inverter does the opposite. Inverts lower (12) volts to 120 Volts. Both of course are not 100% efficient so there are losses each time you manipulate voltage.

You will need a crimping tool and spade connectors to connect this up.

So in rough order you need

1) cord from 120 V outlet to breaker box
2) breaker box
3) 120 V wall plug near breaker wired to it
4) converter wired to breaker or daisy chained after outlet
5) modern battery charger with a switch or timer if preferred wired to breaker or chained. Converter should come on at the same time as charger or charger output will go to aux fuse box and everything will run on the charger. Not good!
6) charger output through SPDT switch to direct charge to either battery
7) converter output and aux battery connected to SPDT relay, triggered by converter coming on, that switches fuse box over
Cool voltmeter connected through SPDT switch to select which battery to read. Or combine 6) and Cool in one DPDT switch
I'll draw a diagram of the connections if you want. PM me.

jim
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

man ! thanks for dumbing it down for me! makes it a whole lot less intimidating in that format, thanks a lot, i'll be sure to make a idiots write for this sort of thing for those of us with less time and skills. thanks again!
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