7 seater Caravelle Syncro to camper

[1988M5]

[ALIKA T3]

[vik]

[WestiT3_1986]

[ZsZ]

[vik]

Hallo all

You may be right about Powerflex. I heard similar story, but they mentioned Swiss TÜV.

as much as I would like to keeping the things rolling I do feel there is some slowdown comming in.
At least the frontend is finished for now. If I will have upper and lower bushings available they will be there too. Well next time

While preparing for the nose transplant I notice a wesp nest in front of the driver

And I could not resist to test the new color for the CLK rims

It looks smart in my point of view.

Obviously not all is so great. I discovered that the front step driver side will need some wokr, oh well
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T3 Syncro camper in progress

[vik]

So the rust fight is on:

I´m wondering if the the front cross panel is available as spare part?
It is nowhere to be find.
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T3 Syncro camper in progress

[MsTaboo]

Yikes! Just goes to show it never pays to ignore that windshield rust. I'm glad I caught mine in time to save the metal.
You're gonna have to get that from a wreaking yard, only the exterior panels are available (afaik).
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Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

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[vik]

Hi all,

Work continues in painfully slow pace. But fuel as well as water tanks are back in and hooked up.
I got a shipment of remaining Powerflex bushings for:
- upper arms
- lower arms
- rear arms
As well as some bolts. And here is why:

The upper control arm will go to powdedrcoaters as soon as the old bushings will be removed. I´m not sure if they are original or were replaced in the past as I could not find any spot welds. But they are rusted together wery well.

Lower front bushings are long time gone as well. I just feel stupid that this was not done when the radius rods were out.

For cutting trough the bolt is better to use one of those vibrating multi tools or some Reciprocating Saw?

And I got repair panels for my front

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T3 Syncro camper in progress

[Pchill2]

A multi-tool blade has a hard time cutting through a nail. I would recommend using a sawzall to cut your bolt.

Diablo makes the best blades for metal cutting. The carbide blades do cost a bit more but will last you for a long time. Other blades will likely show significant wear just cutting through a single bolt.
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87 Syncro Westy
Honda K24 swap

[mikemtnbike]

+1 on the Diablo blades. I tried using other blades I already owned and it was taking like 10 minutes to cut through one bolt and the blade was trash by the end. The Diablo blades took about 30 seconds and are still good after multiple bolts. Get what you pay for.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[ALIKA T3]

Cut through the bushing close to the LCA on the rear portion of the bushing.

Then cut across the hexagonal part of the bolt head many times, use a chisel to break the pieces off. The LCA will then come off easily bc you gained room at the back portion already.

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Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[vik]

Thank you for tips.
The vibration multi tool was used. I had the saw as backup as there is really not so much space.
Cutting out the bolt was the easiest part Blade used was special one for metal from Bosch profesional range. It was roughly $27 equvivalent. Lifespan - one bolt...

Anyway getting the rest of the bolt as well as bush remains was a REAL hassle. Took me about 4h to do so.
Now new and shiny Powerflex bushes are in place.

I´m really thinking to keep the rear bushes for next time.
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T3 Syncro camper in progress

[vik]

I have decided to give it a shot before the engine and gearbox goes back in.
3 out of the 4 bolts were ok. One rusted to the bushing sleve.

This time I waste no time with the big hammer and cut it out in few minutes.
Rear arms are off the car. Will be painted (no time for powder coating this time)

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T3 Syncro camper in progress

[vik]

Just a quick update from the Polybushig work feed
Front upper arms are back not only from powdercoaters, but installed on the car as well

Rear arms are paint in black. While I was doing this my phone decided it would be good time to play paint in black from the Rolling Stones

Next: get the bushings in the rear arms and reinstall the engine
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T3 Syncro camper in progress

[vik]

So it seems that I´m getting to the end of this part of the rebuild.
Obviously it took much longer and will cost much more than expected.

Quick and easy job was to install the BMW brake booster. I managed (unawared) purchased unit already modified for T3.

Next on my list was final preparation of the engine to mount it in the car. Done.

Rear arms now looks much more cleaner. I got as well new bottom ¨plastic¨ washers between spring and the arm.

Lastly rear right window is out and the rust has been dealed with. I´m lucky this time. No holes

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T3 Syncro camper in progress

[vik]

Happy New Year!

Had time in last few days to get back to my Bus. And we are getting closer to finish straight.

New braided brake lines are installed as replacement of the OE 30 years rubber once. On rear arms copper pipes were replaced for the ¨new and better¨ material too.

[4Gears4Tires]

Making good progress!
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[vik]

[TinyPickle]

You're making some good progress
Scrolling back through your post, i saw that you had a nice almost original bullbar mounted, you still have it?

I have a picture of an original TUV for that kind of bullbar, i heard you can make a homologation of the bullbar with this picture..
Interested?
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God of rust, have mercy.

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