China Clipper's Official 1971 Super Beetle Project page!

[VW_Jimbo]

Number 2 is too low. Squirting the oil into the cylinder is to simulate if the rings did their job. A 50 pound increase shows you have bad rings.

Way easier now to rebuild the engine. But I have seen Bugs run on cylinders with 90psi in 4 holes, so...... up to you.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Chinaclipper]

I did a brief scan on the 'net for inserts.
Firstly, thanks for the suggestions VW Jimbo and Bugeee.

It looks like a "ring job" (or pistons and cylinders) is a good bet. Well, that's a lot more do-able then a "compleat" rebuild -I can do that.

And as far as the insert, well, the Timesert insert looked good-until I saw the price. Yikes! If I was doing this for a living maybe, but I just want the one bolt hole done.
So, I found this youtube video vis a vis inserts. Incredible. He gives a un-biased report on use, torque values to failure, and "stripping" strength as well as corrosiveness. Very helpful.

Can I get a confirmation that this bolt used (right lower if engine is in car) in a 1971 1600 DP case (and the corresponding hole) is a 10mm x 1.5 pitch?


Link

Shortened version-Timesert is good, but so is HHIP or Helicoil, and both HHIP and Helicoil are much more reasonably priced for me.

So, add a "ring job" to that expanding list of "things to get done"
Sigh
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
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[67rustavenger]

[VW_Jimbo]

[Chinaclipper]

Well l got the thread repair kit last week, so that job is coming up.
I wanted to get the heads off and see if I could lessen the weight on the engine, so it would be a bit more workable on the bench.

And that, my friends, is when the "fit hit the shan"...

Yup. FIRST, the top outer stud came out with the nut.. Yeah... FROZEN! Well, I got that off by just unscrewing the whole thing, put it a vice, and heated the crap outta' it. The nut finally came off, and I was feeling OK. Confident, ya know?

BUT THEN, the number 2 cylinder WOULD NOT come off the head! Well, I wacked and tugged and pried with a wooden wedge (didn't work) and finally just took the whole shebang off, #2 cylinder and head still married!

Yeah, you see the results. Two broken fins, and one on the outside right on top next to the spark plug holes....

Well shoot! And I was so careful to "strike the fins straight and not at an angle", or so I thought. Dunno how that top part broke off, well, I mean, I DID IT, but I THINK that one may be fatal. The bottom ones closer to the cylinder I think I could get away with, but this one on top, well, it MAY be a gonner.. Ideas?

I am not set up to TIG weld, and I don't have an aluminum welding setup on the ol' Hobart Handler. To set up for aluminum welding MAY be more costly than the cost of one head....
But wait, maybe the MAAP gas technique with aluminum braising rods? That looks promising... I will look into that for the cast aluminum head fin repair .. Yeah, the cylinders are gone.

The head LOOKS good, by the way, I wondered before if the PO had a recent rebuild before I got her. More about that after I get it cleaned up and wire brushed etc....

BTW, the other side came off like the book. Yeah, go figure. I mean REALLY easy. About 3 minutes, no kidding.
Well, who said it was all gonna be simple right?

So.. What to do? Well, first, I gotta' get those two separate. I'm gonna get a "deadblow" hammer (the rubber mallet just wasn't working) soak the s#it otta' it with PB blaster, and give 'er another try tomorrow.

Incidentally, yeah, OK, so I have already been looking at new P/C's, so I wasn't too sad about the damage to the cylinder (yes I had/created some) 'cause I pretty much was going do the R&R, but the heads hurt....

What to do, what to do.....

Either A) repair the head fins or B) obtain an OEM or new head

then push forward.....

Argh....

Mea culpa...
Something tells me (and my forum searches prove it) I am not the first person to do this, but it doesn't seem to ease the "sting" any...
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
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[Chinaclipper]

Well, I tried the MAAP gas and the aluminum brazing rods in an attempt to fix the broken cooling fins.

In a word-FAIL

I am not good enough to master this technique. I could not get enough heat in the part of the fin that was closest to the cylinder, and had too much heat on the outer parts. Yeah, it just wouldn't stick to the inner part, and it would actually start to melt the outer edges of the fins when I tried. Actually had one fin repair I though was good, even grinded it and got it nice and smooth-but I was kidding myself. It wouldn't have held up. No joy....

So, it was a good try....Time to get a new head...

Good news tho, was my repair of the heat exchanger. I used a technique of a youtuber we'd all recognize, and I think that turned out well.

Cleaned and ready

Love this stuff. Easy to shape.

And, in the rough, I'll sand and paint later

Now this one:

I cut and rolled out a piece of the screen. I used a deep well socket, you just need to get it a little larger then in the inside of the pipe.

Test fit first, then ya butter the screen a little, tuck it in with the socket to get it even, then smooth out the outside.

A little more High Temp JB Weld in the inside of the tube/on the screen, and you're good to go. Again, I'll sand and finish later.

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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
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[VW_Jimbo]

Why did you not just weld those up. A section of copper tubing into the exhaust and you could fill that hole. It would last a lot longer than that epoxy. Don’t get me wrong. I think epoxies are an awesome invention. But they have limitations and applications.

You are getting through this! And it is looking good!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Chinaclipper]

[Buggeee]

I see you wrote JB Weld High Temp, so I'll look for that at the store. What is the netting you used? I welded the sheet metal last time I patched up some old heater boxes, chased a lot of burn-through holes, and think I might try this epoxy method on the next set. Thank you.
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[Chinaclipper]

[Chinaclipper]

So moving on the engine-I got my packages from the various shops/VW companies. This weekend was the "pull and check flywheel runout" before anything. I don't want to have to do a "compleat" engine rebuild-I'm OK with just doing the top end, if the engine wear indicator is "within specs" ... (fingers crossed)
First to check with the old-just see what I got before I do anything. Haven't removed flywheel yet or anything. It felt pretty good to me when I tugged it, but what do I know? Specs say it should be between .003-.005". I've been told that the flywheel end play measurement is a good as anything to determine the engine wear and life. Well....
I got the dial indicator ready, and gave her a go.

First dialed out at zero.

Then, a gentle tug and release of the flywheel....

(yeah those are my steel toed shoes)

Looks like .004" to me. That works. I did it "both ways" ie, "tugged" and "pushed" too, just for kicks.
Good deal.
Oh, BTW, There are things that lead me to believe that this engine (motor?) has been worked on before, and maybe even recently (ie, before I purchased the car)
For instance-the oil filler breather tower gasket and baffle? Yeah, pretty sure that was installed incorrectly:

And then the rear (front?) flywheel seal: It looks "proud" (sticks out) All my research says it is supposed to be "slight recessed".. This ain't "slight recessed"...Hmm, dunno, is this the original OEM seal? It was REALLY brittle.... Wasn't sure.

Soo, I checked the shims, cleaned 'em up. I will check the endplay again without the seal and then if that's good, I will install the front seal with a bit of Permatex aviation sealer, remembering to replace the "O" ring, etc, etc and torque it and shut it all up and be done with that. Rings pistons and cylinder to follow, along with a new oil cooler. Next weekend maybe?

Oh, and I also replaced that lower right (passenger side) case stud hole that was stripped. I used the insert and it worked like a champ. Replaced the stud with a little bit of blue Locktite and voila! Done.
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[VW_Jimbo]

On the front seal. Take some wheel bearing grease and lightly pack the spring. You want the grease to retain the seal spring when you tap it into place. I like to apply a thin layer of red copper silicone to the outside edge of the seal. I clean the mating surface of the case to oil free. Then push the seal in with my fingers, because the silicone is a lubricant at this point. I a sixteenth past the outside edge. Wipe up the excess silicone. Let it cure. Good to go!

I have never used a seal tool to install this seal, just my hands!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[finefettle]

I use the old seal to tap the new one home. Really enjoy watching your progress.
I will be interested to see how the epoxy holds up.
I have an exhaust head stud that came loose. Wonder if the epoxy would work?
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1979 Bug project

[Chinaclipper]

[Chinaclipper]

Got the flywheel in, free play checked again, and put the clutch and pressure plate on and torqued to 18fts, yes, eighteen foot pounds.

Then, I tackled the thermostat.
For some unknown reason, I just LOVE these things, and was wanting to see if I could rescue mine. Sure enough, over at VW baywindow bus, they have a GREAT practical step by step method for doing so.

https://ratwell.com/technical/Thermostats.html

Mine was shot (see below) (pictures from VW Baywindow Bus-see for link)
On the left-good, mine was the bad one on the right

I did exactly what they say to do. The link explains EVERYTHING.

Gently heat with a torch the bottom (the part that has the screw that goes into the BOTTOM of the thermostat, NOT the part that screws into the rod)

It releases pretty easy, then you wipe all the solder off, let it cool, reflux and then add about 2 ml of methanol (Heet gas line antifreeze (yellow bottle, NOT the red.) Move the bottle out of the area, safety first. Then, you compress the thermostat with cap in place, then holding it with a clamp or something, solder the cap back on.
I just let it cool, cleaned up the old flux, put on some new flux, left the old solder on, poured in the methanol, (move that bottle once you measure. Safety first) compressed it, then reheated it like "sweating" a copper pipe fitting. Careful not to ignite the methanol in the thermostat. Some may burn off, but you just need a little bit inside the thermostat. The cap solders on tight as a tick, and then releasing the clamp, it swells up, and, as it cools, it just "shrinks" right back down to that new 25-28mm size. Neat.

After the Heet installed and re-soldered.

After the procedure, it is suggested you test it in a hot bath, where you can monitor the temp as you heat it. I did it inside a plastic bag, in a sieve, in a pan. (use a cheap one, save your marriage.)
Sure enough, you could see it slowly expanding at around 130°F, but when she hit about 158° F (70° C) she opened right up. now I didn't have it in a bracket, but that's money.

I'm guessing you could use a hair dryer/heat gun to do the heat thing; I didn't want to press my luck

So, I SLOWLY brought the water temp down, and sure enough, she closed right back up to the nice 28mm she was before she was heated.
Do NOT just remove it from the waterbath, apparently that cools it too fast and can ruin the accordion folds.
Looks good.
On to the next task; install pistons and cylinders, then heads.
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
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[Buggeee]

Amazing
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[vamram]

!Fenomenal!
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Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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Save the Supers!!

[Chinaclipper]

This weekend, I was able to clean up my oil relief ports, and drill and replace the stripped out studs on my oil strainer. Fortunately, the long one that holds the pickup tube was good, but three others needed replacing. One was completely stripped, I used the ol' Ace Hardware 8mm to 6mm reducing stud. Yup, 17/64th drill, tap with 8 x1.25 tap, and a little blue locktite, and in she went. The others just took the Ace hardware 6mm x1.00 x 33mm studs, and again, a little locktite.
Good to go! Good as new.

So, moving forward, little by little, checking off those nasty "fiddly bits".
Next up, installation of new pistons and cylinders.
Weekend job, I hope.

I got a spring tool from HF, so I will be transferring the springs and valves from the old head to the new one. Hopefully they will all pass muster before I install them-I don't want to have to buy new ones....
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
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[Buggeee]

Excellent
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
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(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[Chinaclipper]

So I was gonna replace all the valves in my new DP head. I was going to just remove the valves from the old DP 1971 Super head and clean them up, mic' em, and if they were up to spec, use them in the new head.
(Yeah, I know, I've been scolded "never reuse old exhaust valves, replace 'em!" Point taken....)
Well, after getting the exhaust valve out (I was just going to do one at a time-good call!) and then cleaning them up;they had a LOT of gunk-it looked gummy, I mic'ed em. Well, the valve stem mic'ed at 0.354 in. (9mm). My Bentley's says I'm supposed to be at 0.3118 in (8 mm).
Hmm, there's no way those old valves is gonna fit in the new head, unless I ream the guides. Nah, not gonna do that. After a little research, turn's out, these old heads I have MUST have been rebuilt, apparently they used 9 mm valve stem valve and a 9 mm valve guide. Well, my new head is configured with a 8 mm valve guide. HMMMM ..
Well, CIP 1 here I come.....Yeah, new valves on order. Interesting, the fuel injected heads also used the 9mm valves. I am only guessing that the PO must have done/ had an engine rebuild at some time and replaced the heads with rebuilt ones. BTW, I did notice a few other things, some a little disconcerting.
No washers on some bolts, no shims on the generator fan, the oil deflector plate under the oil tower going completely the wrong way-yeah, things like that. But ya know, I guess that jibes with some other things, like the "resourceful" metal fabricating jobs that were used too. Yeah, like a Kansas license plate used to fill a big rusted out section in the parcel shelf, and my favorite, fiberglas used to fill major rust areas in the front driver side, the Toyota seat used for the drivers side..whew! What a mess!
Oh well, we soldier on.....
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
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