Bleeder screw size?

[VanGeek]

Based on the service records and appearance of the fluid, the Eurovan I purchased is at least a few years overdue for a fluid change.

Using a power bleeder (they work really well!) and the bleeders were very crusty and stuck. I successfully broke-loose three of them with some penetrating oil and hammer taps on the screw and caliper. However, the left-rear is really stuck.

I'm using an 11mm flare wrench and have unfortunately already somewhat rounded the nut with it. Trying to be patient with more time for the penetrating oil and some add'l taps. Will hopefully loosen this bleeder as well, but the bleeder screw nut will be in bad shape.

In searching for new bleeder screw replacements, I see several auto parts sites showing different manufacturer part numbers and sizes. Mine all have an 11mm nut. Can someone confirm the correct size and/or (even better) replacement part numbers?



Also -- any advice for how I can more effectively loosen my 4th bleeder screw without breaking it is appreciated...

[Saturn]

[EuroTec]

Here's a trick I was shown years ago that has worked for me many times.
Of course, a bit of penetrating fluid is a good idea, but my trick is, try tightening it until it feels like it barley moves, then loosen. Works 90% of the time for me. Go easy.
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[markswagen]

when putting ANY bleed nipple into any vehicle, clutch brake or hydraulic, l always wrap teflon tape around the threads, it helps prevent leaks between the threads of the nipple and the cylinder, and if vacuum is your chosen method of bleeding the brakes, with teflon tape on the threads, you won't be sucking air in through the threads, just fluid through from the front.
and lastly, teflon tape will help prevent bleed nipples snapping off, as they won't get seized into what ever they are threaded into.
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markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310

[1994Karuso]

I put a broken drill bit into the bleeder before trying to loosen them. It will prevent the bleeder from collapsing and help keep it from shearing off.

[EuroTec]

[VanGeek]

This is not the bleeder screw you're looking for.
Even though it shows up on rockauto, O'Reilly's, amazon, and several other sites as "the screw" compatible with late model T4 rear calipers. Too long and skinny.

It's an H9413 available under several different brands and different suppliers.

If anyone has a correct part number from a reputable supplier please share. I think I can extract the old screw but it's in poor condition.

[jjvincent]

This is what I'd do.
1. Fill up the brake reservoir
2. Remove the other side brake bleeder and measure it.
3. Replace that bleeder.
4. Go to a place like NAPA and see what you can find that gets close.

If you don't want to drain the whole system (which you don't want to) then get ready and find a bolt to stick in the bleeder screw hole to keep it from leaking out. Then take existing bleeder screw to NAPA. I only say NAPA because they typically have tons of oddball things. I bet they will have something close. All you need is the diameter and thread pitch. Then the length needs to be at a minimum, same as stock. Longer and hex size is no big deal.

Another option, buy this. I bet the large one in this $8.23 kit will work.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-13949-Bleeder-Assortment/dp/B000CO8ZW4

Final option, they sell refurbished calipers for the Eurovan for around $70ea at Autozone.

[markswagen]

at a guess, l'd say the bleed nipple in question, it M10x1.0mm thread.
a common size, when an original bleed nipple has to be drilled out and replaced, when calipers are being reconditioned.

[mikemtnbike]

My plan would be:

Take it up to the hardware store and measure it on their gauge thing in the nuts and bolts aisle to be sure. Then measure length , in mm. Google results for brake blender M(thread measurement) X length.

A lot of shops would have a tool to measure the threads or a good tech can tell at a glance. I’m not experienced enough to do that over the interwebz. Markswagen is a pro well known in vanagon world, so you can also generally trust his advice.

A good old school Napa is also a great idea. I’m lucky to have one near me if I brought them the bleeder they’d bring a box out of options for us to look at. Some are nothing more than another parts store though.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"

[jjvincent]

[VanGeek]

MYSTERY SOLVED.....

Using the Dorman accessory kit, the M10 x 1.0 threaded bleeder screw fits and is workable, but it's over 5mm longer than the OEM screw. It opens and seals the bleeder opening and seems to work fine -- but I'd prefer a screw that doesn't stick-out so far.

The Dorman screw is spec'd at 35mm from tip to tail. My measurements suggest it's closer to 34mm.

The 10mm OEM screw measures 28mm from tip to tail. I searched online and found a lot of 35mm+ length screws. A few more at 30mm.

This one is just over 29mm and it available and economical. It's also stainless (some are steel or aluminum but ours seem to be steel) -- I'm going to use it... https://www.amazon.com/4LIFETIMELINES-Stainless-Bleeder-M10x1-0-Millimeter/dp/B08Q68H6HH

This one also looks good. Says 30mm but has a pointy tip like the original and an 11mm nut on the end. Ships from Latvia and I don't want to wait a month for it but worth considering if you need one and can wait: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303739137740

[VanGeek]

The amazon bleeder screws arrived today. They're not perfect -- slightly taller and have 10mm instead of 11mm head. But the fit is acceptable. See comparison to mangled original below and the new screw (driver side) compared to the original style (passenger side)

[soissisc]

That looks like that will work!
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Mark

68 Westy
92 Jetta (oh it is retired)
99 Eurovan
05 NBC
06 Audi A3
72 Westy (I am going to fix it up)

[jjvincent]

A taller one is better than one that is too short. Now you can move on.