No oil pressure after oil change and other work

[Mitey62]

Working on an 1835 with full flow oil, running to a filter, no cooler.

I just got the engine back in my car and fired up after doing some work (nothing major). I had the engine out to fix a stripped spark plug hole. I also took the time to move my external oil filter about 3" higher to a better spot (inside the drivers side fender), and replaced both hoses. I got the lines back on correctly (bottom of engine to "in" on filter, "out" on filter to top of engine).

Started it up, ran for about 5 seconds, oil pressure light stays on.
Killed it, checked oil, all is OK, I figured it must still be filling up my oil filter lines.
Ran it another 5-10 seconds, light still on solid.
Checked my oil pressure light wiring (grounded to engine with key on), works fine.
Checked the oil pressure switch with a little compressed air, checks fine.
Pulled off the bottom oil line (from the oil pump) to the filter... bone dry.

I did find 2 pieces of metal during my oil change that were determined to be from the rocker arm shaft (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10025554#10025554), and must have been there for a number of years. I fished around for a while with a magnet and didn't find anything else.

I will note that when the engine was on the jack, it slid off (about 3") to the floor, but was much more of a "slide" than a "fall". I'm hoping it just knocked something loose. Oil pickup tube? How would I check that the oil pickup tube is seated and in place?

Looking for advice as to where to start looking. It looks like to pull off the oil pump cover I probably have to take off the crank pulley.

Been years since I've worked on this old girl, and a lot of things I used to know have fallen out of my head.

Thanks in advance.

Edit; one other note, I've never had an issue with oil pressure before on this car

[Lingwendil]

Disconnect and manually fill the oil lines to the filter adapter, and crank it over with the coil disconnected and see if it builds pressure. Could have enough trapped air that it's failing to prime.

Also, pull the oil pressure relief plugs, and verify that the plungers are moving. Do that before the oil lines.
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Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[Mitey62]

I was thinking about trying to fill the lines as you suggested. There should be 2 plugs for plungers on a DP, yeah? Both on the bottom of the case?

Who doesn't love draining 3 quarts of fresh oil back out?

Thanks for the reply. Back to the garage.

[Lingwendil]

Dual relief case has two releif plugs, yeah, assuming your dual port is built on a dual releif case. I've seen lots of dual port heads on single relief/1500 cases though
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73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[Mitey62]

2 plugs indeed. I'm going to have to make up a little tool to get em out though, even my biggest screw driver isn't going to get them. Unfortunately my new TIG torch doesn't get here until Saturday, so I guess I'm waiting until then to try and pull them. I don't particularly want to destroy any of my chisels by grinding them to fit, unless somebody here has a really neat trick to getting them out without ruining them.

[oprn]

Pulling the two pressure relieve valves out will not result in all the oil draining out of the crankcase. Just the little bit that is in that oil gallery.
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[74 Thing]

Back fill the oil into the oil pump and get the air out of the pick up tube:
1. Remove the hose that is attached to the oil filter which comes from the oil pump.
2. Put a funnel in the end of that hose and pour some oil in it.
3. Have someone turn the engine backwards by one of the pulley bolts or nuts to pull the oil through the oil pump and into the oil sump thus getting rid of the air while holding the funnel with oil up high and continuing to add oil.
4. Hook up the oil line and remove your distributor wires from the coil and crank the engine until the oil light goes out (may want to remove spark plugs to make it easier on the starter and ignition system).
5. Hook up the distributor wire and fire it up and double check timing and synch and no leaks then go for a ride.

[Lingwendil]

[67rustavenger]

What is the purpose of removing the oil pressure relief and pressure control plunger, plugs?

OP, are you running a strainer screen in your engine sump?

I'd try filling the oil out line from the pump with oil first. See if it builds pressure as described above.

No pressure. Check the oil pump next. Yeah, you have to remove the pulley and the tin to access the pump. Remove the gears and look for embedded debris stuck in the gear teeth.

Doing all the above, in this post will not require draining the fresh oil from the crank case.

Report back on your findings, cure.

Material embedded in the pump gears, caused a "0" oil pressure condition a few years ago.

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[Mitey62]

Thanks guys. I stopped by 2 auto parts stores on my way home from errands earlier, no drag link sockets. Called around and found one, I'll go pick it up tomorrow.

67, yes, I'm running the strainer.

I find it hard to believe it's something critical, as I've never had an issue before, and it just happened to start after the last little bit of work I finished.

I'll do more poking tomorrow and report back.

Thanks again

[74 Thing]

Backfill the damn oil output line. There is air in the system preventing it from priming.

[Lingwendil]

[Cusser]

[drumbum68]

Seems so simple to unhook the oil line coming out of the pump,...and have somebody crank the engine......

See oil come out of the hose?

[RLFD213]

Since you have a remote filter did you fill the filter before putting the new one on and have you taken the oil sending unit out and put a gauge on it. Maybe the sending unit broke

[mikedjames]

Kill the ignition so it does not start !
Overfill the crank case about half an inch to an inch over the top mark. Then the oil runs into the pump by gravity.

Crank until pressure less than maybe 10 seconds to fill the hoses and filter.

Suck excess oil out of dipstick hole using a vacuum pump .. the tube goes well down into the sump so you can drop the level easier than guessing with the sump plate..

I do this on my bus where the filter and cooler loop uses about 3/4 quart so the level drops as the loop fills anyway.
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1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[Zed999]

[Mitey62]

It's amazing that some people don't read posts before offering "help". Drumbum, post #1 says the oil line from the pump was bone dry. RLFD, post #1 says I tested the oil pressure switch.

'74's method of backfilling and turning the engine over backwards to prime the pump did the trick, thanks!

Looks like I can go return the drag link socket I bought from NAPA... for $38! I'm all for having tools "just in case", but not this one, not today!

I've never had this issue before in all of the oil changes that I've done on this car over the last decade or so. I can only assume that because it sat for a week or so with the oil drain out, and the oil filter hoses disconnected from the engine, that it just drained more completely than it usually would with a typical 10 minute oil change.

Time to get the new carb tuned and take her for a spin before tackling my last big project on this car for the season. Fingers crossed!

Once again, many thanks for all of the help!

[RLFD213]

Instead of returning the drag link socket why don’t you stick it in your ass. You said you tested the the oil sending unit. You didn’t say what oil pressure the system had. Since you’re such a fucking know it all. I guess you probably don’t need this forum anymore.

[67rustavenger]