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mark tucker
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Joined: April 08, 2009
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Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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 Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2023 10:36 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| RWK wrote: |
This is another way to do it, less cost then bull nose center, but you have to have one for each cyl. size.
Set up a dial indicator for length control, or DROs
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Ive built many of those for this and other machining opps & jigs out of old forged & some cast v8 pistons that are bigger bore. just wack off the head and start machining. forged ones also make for great steering wheel addaptors., I also use them on both ends of the cylinder,I never use the jaws to hold the cylinder.
Last edited by mark tucker on Sat Mar 18, 2023 4:41 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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mark tucker
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Joined: April 08, 2009
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Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2023 10:39 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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also...the amount of after market valve guides I have run a cross that are not machined concentric from the id to od is more than I can count on both hands&feet. I would suggest when remachining them that you machine off the id not the od. or check befor&after. unless your trying to move the seat over this way or that  
Last edited by mark tucker on Sat Mar 18, 2023 4:40 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2023 10:58 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| chrisflstf wrote: |
| Are those the same for type iv and type 1? Part number? |
They are not the same. Type 4 is 5mm larger than the Type 1. I don’t remember part numbers for Type 1 right off hand, but you can find just about anything you want in their catalog I linked in the earlier post.
Type 4 sleeves are 42mm for the fan hub and 75mm for the main seal.
Fan hub: KWK99166
Main seal: KWK99294
I had to trim the main seal sleeve to length because it was a little long, but that’s an easy job.
I don’t remember the Type 1 part number. It has been a long time since I have messed with them.
A lot of auto parts store repackage either Timken or SKF sleeves specific to vehicle models.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Last edited by Vanapplebomb on Sat Mar 18, 2023 11:17 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2023 11:15 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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After some digging, it looks like KWK99272 would work for a Type 1. It is a little long and would need to get trimmed down slightly, but that’s no problem.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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chrisflstf
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Joined: February 10, 2004
Posts: 3439
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2023 10:36 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| What do machinists use on tools to keep them clean and rust free? Wd 40, Gibbs or some other protectant? |
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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chrisflstf
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Joined: February 10, 2004
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Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2023 11:02 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| Basically anything that is a machined bare metal finish. Gauge blocks, V blocks for ex... |
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2023 11:17 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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My gauge blocks get a light coat of a thin oil after use before they go back in the box. I am not picky. Just whatever is closest. A rag wetted with ISO 22 spindle oil, 10W air tool oil, WD40 or Kerosine, etc. Before use I wipe them off on a dry paper shop towel to remove excess oil.
Any things like angle plates, V blocks, etc that are used for setup on the mill don’t get any special treatment because they get wetted with cutting oil, WD40, or Kerosine during use. I just wipe the chips off when I am done and put them away.
Never had rust issues with them in humid west Michigan in a non-air conditioned pole barn.
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modok
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Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 26785
Location: Colorado Springs
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| Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2023 7:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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If I forget about something and leave it on a shelf for a year it might develop some rust, but generally it just isn't a problem.
If it's getting used then it won't rust.
All surfaces you USE will be get oiled and wiped down often.
But also don't use any vinegar or alcohol or soap near bare metal, in a spray bottle or rag, just not even thinking about it.... doing some other thing nearby you can cause rust just from the MIST or vapors.
WD40 is a good choice.
Or just some used stoddard solvent that has some oil residue in it anyway.
Gibbs oil seems to repel oil more than wd40, keep it away from the ways. |
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drumbum68
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Joined: October 15, 2010
Posts: 566
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| Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2023 8:31 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| CorrosionX is good to have around. |
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GS guy
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Joined: December 03, 2007
Posts: 968
Location: Maryland
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| Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2023 5:25 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| chrisflstf wrote: |
| What do machinists use on tools to keep them clean and rust free? Wd 40, Gibbs or some other protectant? |
Gibbs - hands down! Leaves a finish that's almost undetectable and won't rust. Like the old woman says in the commercial, "I put that shi+ on everything!".
My process is to use nitrile gloves, spray it on and rub into the surface using the gloves/fingers to wet it down. Let sit over night (or even a few minutes) then lightly wipe the excess off with a paper towel. For tools, I do the above on some aluminum foil, let it sit a while then wipe down and store.
Once you start using it - you'll never go back to WD40 or similar products!
Jeff
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2023 6:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Sometimes it isn’t just about machining engine parts. Sometimes it is making jigs or fixtures to make jobs easier.
This is a fixture for installing/removing valve springs, retainers, and keepers. It is just a scrap of aluminum that I drilled, tapped, and Helicoiled for the head stud pattern. I molded a nest onto the plate by pouring urethane into the head, bolted to the plate. I removed the head, and shaved down the combustion chamber mold with a die grinder to leave a little wiggle room for casting differences from head to head.
It is really nice to be able to drop valves into the guides, place the fixture over the head, turn it over, do your valve spring work. The molded urethane nesting holds the valves up while compressing valve springs and placing locks, etc.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Chickensoup
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Joined: January 06, 2018
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Location: Good Hope, GA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2023 6:20 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| Vanapplebomb wrote: |
[/img]
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SB 13?
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2023 7:01 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| Chickensoup wrote: |
| Vanapplebomb wrote: |
[/img]
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SB 13? |
Yes, an old 1960-61 South Bend 13 with a 5’ bed. Cute little guy. It’s light, slow, under powered, not particularly rigid… but when used within its limits, it leaves a wonderful surface finish! There is something to be said for flat belts and plain bronze bearings on the spindle. Silky smooth.
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2023 8:08 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Skimming the bore prior to sending out for honing. I’m always surprised by this 3 jaw Bison chuck. No matter what I chuck up in it, it’s always less than 0.002 run out. Only time I pull out the 4 jaw these days is when I need darn near zero run out, or I have to flip the part end for end.
Also, I wish I had a larger diameter boring bar…
Link
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modok
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Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 26785
Location: Colorado Springs
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| Posted: Sun Apr 09, 2023 10:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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They aren't hard to make, old hydraulic shock rod ect.
Cut flats to fit your toolpost, attach tool to the far end somehow(weld/braze?)
I'm amazed that little lathe works as well as it does. I've seen far worse.
I took some old porsche cylinders 1mm over thurday, those things are HARD Bored .0025 from size NICE, still took a long time to hone. |
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oprn
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Location: Western Canada
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| Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2023 5:44 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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That is a newer South Bend than mine! I have the gear sets you change for different feed speeds. Not that I use them, the 1/2 nuts are paper thin! Are parts available for these old South Bend lathes yet? The threads in the tail stock are in bad shape too.
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mark tucker
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Joined: April 08, 2009
Posts: 23937
Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2023 12:00 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| chrisflstf wrote: |
| What do machinists use on tools to keep them clean and rust free? Wd 40, Gibbs or some other protectant? |
airconditioning as well as what ever I have handy..I dont usualy any have rusting issues. but yes machined serfaces on a machine that are /cant be painted...they can rust even with some oil on them ,you just have to keep up with them. temp changes are very hard on them as they will condensate a lot. if I know I will need to open the 16' garage door in a few days Ill turn off the ac so the machines can warm up a tad so they dont sweet so much. then always go over them wiping& spraying when your done and the ac in back on. |
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2023 9:58 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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| modok wrote: |
They aren't hard to make, old hydraulic shock rod ect.
Cut flats to fit your toolpost, attach tool to the far end somehow(weld/braze?)
I'm amazed that little lathe works as well as it does. I've seen far worse.
I took some old porsche cylinders 1mm over thurday, those things are HARD Bored .0025 from size NICE, still took a long time to hone. |
I like your idea. I could use some scrap bar stock and cut the dovetails in for the quick change tool post. Then key the end for a tool bit, and bolt it down. Sounds pretty easy.
At the end of the day, I am not sure how much more it would get me. It still is a little lathe that weighs less than 2000Lbs… there is only so much it can do. Having something dangling that far off the saddle is not ideal… not when the saddle is as light weight as the South Bend saddles are. Still, it does an ok job if you go slow enough.
You are right, those German cylinders are tough. Ever cut old German and new import cylinders back to back? It’s a night and day difference. 
| oprn wrote: |
| That is a newer South Bend than mine! I have the gear sets you change for different feed speeds. Not that I use them, the 1/2 nuts are paper thin! Are parts available for these old South Bend lathes yet? The threads in the tail stock are in bad shape too. |
Well…
Some new parts are available… some.
The felt oil wick kits are available to rebuild the head stock, apron, and quick change gearbox (which you don’t have). Some people have been making batches of cross slide nuts.
A couple people have been taking the half nuts, boring them, and soldering in bronze sleeves tapped for the lead screw.
Ever since Shiraz Balolia (the owner of Grizzly) bought the rights to the name from LeBlond, new OEM parts have not been made… it has been what, 10 or 15 years or so since that happened? It only took a few years for new replacement parts from LeBlond to dry up. From time to time, NOS parts do show up from individuals privet stashes.
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modok
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Location: Colorado Springs
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| Posted: Thu Apr 13, 2023 2:10 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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They might have been the hardest single cylinders I ever found yet.
And I've done......hundreds of different types of cylinders, maybe a thousand total.
It's not necessarily better to be so hard. Only real benefit imo is they wear so little you could have 0.1 oversizes, but they will still warp and pistons still wear. And here I am going 1 over..... |
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