71 Beetle engine pull adventure

[mg50]

[Marcdeb]

[mg50]

[Cusser]

[mg50]

[Rickf1985]

Put the box end of the wrench on the Allen wrench, you will need all the bite you can get and the open end will just slip. Plus you will have the open end available to use for the "mechanics extension". A second big wrench with the box end over the open end of the one on the Allen.
I can see Cusser smiling now, been there done that. Hey Cusser, ever used TWO helpers in a row?

MG, You can use one helper but I strongly suggest you don't try two in a row. It can be done but it is really sketchy and usually ends up with wrenches flying and a lot of four letter words used. It is something us pro mechanics tell you not do but then we do it anyway because we are in a hurry and to tired or lazy to go to the tool box for the right tool when you have a ton of wrenches right there next to you.

[Cusser]

[mg50]

Well that's why this forum is valuable beyond the service manual. The manual will say remove a bolt but doesn't give tips on how. Have to rely on you guys who have already busted your knuckles figuring this stuff out.

I put the box end of a wrench on the big hex wrench just as recommended. Took a strong two hand pull but out it came. The fluid didn't look too bad but might as well be getting a fresh start when I don't know the car's history.

[Cusser]

Great idea there - I do have a 17mm gear box wrench, will try to remember that for next time. Mine's not a swivel head one though.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[mg50]

[VW_Jimbo]

Sorry, late to the game. I made a removal tool from a 4” long m10 bolt. I then ran 2 nuts onto the bolt, flush with the end. Tightened them together, and then had to tighten a bit more till the hexagons of both nuts were aligned with each other. A little weld blob on the back side and….BAM! A tool that can be used to loosen the fill nut. Best part is that the ratchet and 17mm socket are on the outside of the fork!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[mg50]

Is this fluid ok for the transmission? (he asked as he pumped it in)

[Rickf1985]

That will work fine. As long as it does not say it is GL-5. Even GL-5 is supposed to bee ok if it contains the mt-1 additives but I prefer to stay at the GL-4 or lower grades to be sure I don't have issues with the oil attacking the syncros.

Looking at that again I do not see the oil institute certification star on there, is it on the back? You definitely want to use a brand name oil that is certified.

https://motoroilmatters.org/protect-your-car/learn-about-standards

[mg50]

i’ll take a look later at label. after pouring the old oil from pan to jug it did have a fair amount of gunk left in the pan bottom. not metal but clumps of gunk. the drain plug has a magnet and there was just a few small metal grains stuck there. comparing the clarity to new oil, it looks pretty dark so i guess it was time to replace.

[BMFBMF]

Oil looks fine, there was so many different types of gearbox and transmission oils from the expensive brand names that I sort of gave up and chose a cheaper Gulf brand that's clearly stated what it was doing on the box. (I'm not kidding, Castrol has like 10 different gbox/transmission/axle oils all slightly differently marketed)

I had an old bottle with a tube coming out the lid that I'd used previously, but for some reason this time it was such a pain in the ass I also bought the pumper that I see you have in your oil container. Haven't used it yet though, how did it work for you?

Jimbo, I made exactly that tool with a long bolt and 2 nuts worked great. My dadlost it though 😔!
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-----Slava Ukraini-----
1971 Stock South African Beetle 1300 : My mom's european "Thin Chick" spec. Completely stock with torsion bar front, swingaxle rear, smooth hubs, single MC, 40 mm shoes, 31PICT3 carb and 5 bolt drums all round, currently Running a 1976 SF:AS engine with the original SF:AD engine overhauled in a box, waiting to go back in one day.

[mg50]

[Rickf1985]

I have a half dozen of those welded bolt/nut tools I have made over the years. It was usually faster to make a new one when needed than it was to track down the last one I made. I should gather them all up and start giving them out to new guys in need of transmission plug tools! I am somewhat more organized now so I don't lose tools as fast. Plus, I still have a welder, or two or three.

[Rickf1985]

The problem with using oils without the API seal is you do not know what is in them, or not in them. As oils are upgraded older oils are dropped from the list and it is these oils that the refineries then sell to the cheapy stores, minus a lot of the additives they used to have in them to save on the cost. So the oil that you bought ten years ago that was certified is now no longer certified and you figure that it is the same oil and MUCH cheaper. Well, if it sounds to good to be true it usually is. It is cheaper because they no longer put the additives in it and since it is not tested anymore nobody knows any better.
I use Tractor Supply 90 weight in my tractor but I certainly would not use it in something I depend on going 60 MPH down the road.
High pressure and anti shear additives don't matter in slow speed applications but in a vehicle on the road they certainly do matter.

[mg50]

Pulled the starter to replace the bushing. But bushing looks very good so may put it back in. Interesting to see original starter still cranking away. Took a shot of bushing before I pulled it to see how far it sits in the hole, engine side (5mm).

[Pruneman99]

Visually the bushing looks fine. Put it on the starter shaft, and just make sure it's not loosy-goosy. It was probably replaced at some point.