Rear suspension travel kit?

[NAZglen]

I have been looking at the 10.5" rear travel kit offered by Kaddie Shack for $800. The say it includes all the parts needed for installation.
Comparing apples to apples...
What is the amount of travel you can get using stock suspension without modifications?
They say they get 10.5". (with notching the spring plates)
What degree of articulation can you get from the type 1 CV's?
They say they get 17 degrees. But its possible to get up to 22 degrees.
Anyone see anything missing from the list below?

Kit Includes:
(2) Forged 100mm stub axles
(2) Forged 100mm Type 1 trans drive flanges
(2) Axles complete with 100mm CV's, axle boots, axle shafts, retainer clips... even the Moly CV grease!
(24) Hardened aircraft quality CV bolts
(12) 100mm torque distribution washers
(2) KYB extended length shocks valved correctly for this conversion

[dirtkeeper]

I’m not sure of the product your talking about. But I have


type 2 cv’s that go up to 22 degrees i have notched my spring plates for maximum travel ,which by the way is about 22 degrees, and I don’t remember the measurements I took but i recall it being far less than 10.5 inches travel, it’s closer to 7”. I don’t see how 10.5 inches of travel can be had without doing additional modifications . Now I am curious I may have to go check my travel at my wheel to confirm. I am pretty sure the shock itself has less than 7” of travel.

[NAZglen]

They do say you have to remove the snubbers. Do'nt know if that will add to the travel.

[cbeck]

I believe that kit swaps out t1 cvs, flanges, stubs and axles for parts that use type 2 cvs. Then mock up/modify spring plates until the shocks droop to max or you reach max cv angles.
Removing the snubber will gain a little up. Removing snubber comlpetely will use the upper spring plate stop on the housing as a stop. Or your engine/cage may hit first. Watch those cv angles.
_________________
My cut in half and rebuild thread
www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=647779

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

Don't bother with the more expensive kit Your paying 154$ for two KYB 40$ shocks the whole (Valved correctly) is a load of bull.

The 644$ kit is a solid buy. I would do that plus do the bottom shock mount Mod you gain clearance then you can measure for a real shocks like Bilstein's.

I've run every stock rear shock rock auto sells and can say KYBs are good for the Budget minded but would not pay a penny over 40$. Now the Bilstein's are pure heaven ill never go back. I would look up the class 11 valving and get that in the correct length you end up needing.

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

Bilstein VW shocks at the bottom and yes not sure about the 10.5 travel seems a little Those KYB shocks in the kit are soft you will bottom out the first woop and 100% guarantee they will leak after one season if not by the end of the day. The KYB gas adjust mono tubes are better will last two seasons and you can hit woops in second gear. Bilstein's well you get it...

[NAZglen]

Thanks Sasquatch...

I didn't know they sold the same kit without the shocks. When I get closer to working on the rear suspension I will post again.

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

I have the type1 90mm CV's pushing 16degs they are fully maxed out. Haven't had one come apart yet. I do have my torsion bars set up differently then most. The back end is a bit saggy my logic behind it is keep both wheels on the ground through rough terrain. Spinning one tire and then having it grab is death to CV's. If your doing class 11 racing you have the huge ruts to deal with and need the clearance so people torque everything up tight it rides like garbage and will stress crack the car in half but hey to each their own. I'm the exploring type and climb a lot of hills so I use my car more like a jeep. Just depends what you going to use the car for.

[Schepp]

Not sure where kaddieshack is coming up with that 10.5” number. I think they’re blowing smoke.
I’ve got the same driveline setup that they’re selling. Which I spent way less sourcing the parts individually.
I’ve boxed the arms, cut off the lower stops and run limit straps. At bump to droop im at 8.3” rear travel.

Also the “conversion” stubs, shafts and drive flanges are the same as Thing parts.

100mm type 2 cv’s
Thing stubs
Thing axle shafts
Thing drive flanges

Those are the parts. Source them yourself and save big.
Used parts can still be good parts.

[Blue69Baja]

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

First did you do the lower shock mount mod? Its free. You cut off the lower mount remove 3/4 and weld back on

I have the rear end apart currently. My notched dual spring plates 3/16 will max out the stock CV's and allow some pre load (downward travel) when the torsion bars are set correctly. Quiet operation no limit straps required. Note stock torsion bars

[Blue69Baja]

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

A lot of Baja's were set up with over torqued torsion bars it makes for a awful ride you don't know how bad you have it till you ride in one set up correctly no frame of reference I personally wouldn't suffer in the previous owners incompetence for a sec longer but that's me. I understand it might seem like a daunting task but its really not.
If this is the bug in question you have a ton of clearance in the wheel wells also a great looking Baja! You have a lot to gain in comfort and overall off road capability.
I also run 235 75 15s with stock CV'S It can be setup to work well run quiet and be reliable without any aftermarket parts.

[Blue69Baja]