2003 Eurovan MV VR6 24V manual swap notes

[T3DoKaSy16"]

[EuroTec]

So more "notes"...

I've come up with a new version of the transmission emulator that uses the same 7 solenoids and ribbon cable that are in the valve body of the 01P/01M. It's a much nicer package it's all inside a fully enclosed box.

A couple customers had codes coming back for solenoids 4 & 6. These two solenoids measure about 6 ohms. The relays are around 80. This new kit solves that issue.

While I was at it I decided to explore the possibility of making a jumper for the multi-function switch that makes the TCU "think" it's in Park or Neutral so that the starter will work without having to rewire anything.
HOWEVER, there's a problem with this.

The ECU maps the throttle differently when in P or N as opposed to being in D. When it's in P or N the throttle actuation is harsh and "clunky". When it's in D it's smoother and easier to modulate. So, the jumper I supply that makes it think it's in D is best.

The new version of the emulator is $10 more so $275 buys one.

_________________
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[EuroTec]

So more "notes"...

I've come up with a new version of the transmission emulator that uses the same 7 solenoids and ribbon cable that are in the valve body of the 01P/01M. It's a much nicer package it's all inside a fully enclosed box.

A couple customers had codes coming back for solenoids 4 & 6. These two solenoids measure about 6 ohms. The relays are around 80. This new kit solves that issue.

The solution for the two customers was to send them a prewired 6 ohm solenoid that plugged into the relay socket. Of course, no charge for this upgrade.

While I was at it I decided to explore the possibility of making a jumper for the multi-function switch that makes the TCU "think" it's in Park or Neutral so that the starter will work without having to rewire anything.
HOWEVER, there's a problem with this.

The ECU maps the throttle differently when in P or N as opposed to being in D. When it's in P or N the throttle actuation is harsh and "clunky". When it's in D it's smoother and easier to modulate. So, the jumper I supply that makes it think it's in D is best.


The new version of the emulator is $10 more so $275 buys one.
http://hackaweek.com/hacks/donate/

_________________
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[IgoR_KilleR]

Hello everyone!
Thank you Dean for this brilliant idea, but I have a few questions.
I'm struggling with a few things.

Today I built a relay version of the emulator. Unfortunately, it didn't work. The computer shows the solenoid valve error to all except the 6th solenoid valve (the one that is not connected to ground (or maybe there is a "+" there? If so, why didn't it work). I bought the relay sockets with rectifier diodes to prevent induction. I suppose I need these diodes Another error is from the automatic transmission speed sensor, even though I shorted both pins as you said.

Another thing is that you do jumpers on both speed sensors. As for the gearbox speed sensor, it's pretty obvious, I don't understand the idea behind the jumper on the second speed sensor. Will it not be needed to run the cruise control? I would prefer to install this 1.1Mohm resistor just in case and because the computer shows an error of this sensor.

One more thing. How did you manage to short the selector pins in position D to avoid ignition problems? If I remember correctly, when it's in D position, the engine won't start. How did you do it? I was thinking of installing a switch in the interior to change N to D after ignition, but it seems you solved it smarter than I couldn't find in your posts or video.

Greetings from Poland

[EuroTec]

[IgoR_KilleR]

[IgoR_KilleR]

Ok, so I cutted off the diods and it works! No selenoids errors! Only a speed sensor error left.

I put a 1.1MOhm resistor on one of the speed sensor plugs - and suddenly I got 2 errors instead of one So I shorted it back. I think I found the second speed sensor plug, but it's plugged in somwhere and I can barely reach it. I'll try to unplug it tomorrow and short it as well. Hope it will not cause any harm

As for the selector plug, unfortunately I don't know how to change the ignition circut so that it fires in position D. I figured I'd install a switch inside the cabin, which I can short pins 5 and 7 for the time of starting the engine, and then I will switch it back so that only pins 2 and 3 are shorted for position D.

[paddygarcia]

Dean, hopefully this is OT given that this thread is notes on the swap.

Your kit included the bracket for the stub axle. Is that the same as the one for the automatic? Best I can tell they are, but my MT stub axle doesn't want to line up. I could encourage it to move farther back into the bracket, but don't want to damage anything.

EDIT: nm, searching the parts diagrams shows that the AFL/DYA uses bracket 02G409905A, versus the automatic 02G409905B. Have to go back to my supplier.

[IgoR_KilleR]

[gordonfogarty]

I am in the closing stages of a manual conversion on my 1997 12v VR6 T4.
I am using a O2G diesel gearbox (with same ratios as VR6 petrol).
I have had an adaptor plate made and have modified the gearbox accordingly to account for the plate thickness.
I have used a VR6 Golf flywheel and clutch.
I have left the TCU in place and just disconnected the gearbox cable connectors.
I am now only missing a pipe for the clutch.
Fingers crossed on the closing stages and 1st start / drive .
Gordon

[soissisc]

That is interesting! Keep us posted.
_________________
Mark

68 Westy
92 Jetta (oh it is retired)
99 Eurovan
05 NBC
06 Audi A3
72 Westy (I am going to fix it up)

[EuroTec]