Rear wiring (ignition). Wires fried

[napgonz]

Hello,

I have been having problems with my bug starting. Bought it and it was starting sometimes. Other times I was taping the starter solenoid and it started. Now it won't even start that way.

Already checked all wiring per instructional videos.

Already installed a new relay.


a few days back I was trying to turn it on but heard the fuse blow and then smoke was coming out of the back. looks like the wire from the coil to the condenser got fried.

any idea? I'm not very savvy on mechanical of electrical.

been trying to find a shop in the San Jose Bay Area but it's crazy expensive even to get it diagnosed.

Any tips or help will be greatly appreciated!

[rcroane]

Can you post some photos that show the whole engine bay? When you say you installed a new relay....do you mean a hard start relay?
_________________
'65 Sunroof Bug

[napgonz]

Hi,

thanks. Yes, a hard start relay.

Also, the bug has some switch that pumps the gas (or turns it on and off).

[napgonz]

[wdfifteen]

I hope you get your car going.

I'm trying to understand what's going on here. What are the 2 capacitors (A) about?

That uninsulated connector hanging out there (B) could be the problem. It is a short waiting to happen.

Why is this out where it is (C)? It is supposed to be plugged into the distributor.

You've got a couple more problems in addition to electrical. The brake line zip-tied to the axle (not good) and an axle boot is on wrong.

I hope you get your car going reliably and safely. If you aren't good at mechanical work you are going to have to spend some $$$.

[Cusser]

Contact a VW Club in the San Jose Bay Area; someone should be willing and able to help out hands-on.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[ashman40]

Looks like the black #15 ignition wire running from the fuse box to the ignition coil has shorted and melted. This wire is not normally protected by the fuse box. You will need to replace this ignition coil wire. If it has melted any neighboring wires they may also need to be replaced.

This #15 wire runs under the left rear seat. Find where it comes out of the harness running between rear seat and the engine. Look to see if the wire has melted or softened. You may need to cut open the harness to find the wire. Look into the main harness which comes from the front of the car to the rear seat (runs along the left heater channel) and see if the wire has melted inside this harness. Look in the trunk area. The black wire comes out of the main harness below the left corner of the windshield and runs to the INPUT side of the fuse box. Has the wire melted here?
Follow the black #15 wire from the fuse box to the ignition switch. Has this wire melted. Worse case scenarios the internals of the ignition switch get melted when the #15 circuit over heats.

Any wires that melted need to be replaced. Your inspection of the wires will tell you which you will need.
If you are lucky, you just need to run a new black #15 wire (14AWG or 1.5mm^2) from the fuse box to the ignition coil.
If you are not lucky... multiple wires in the harness have melted and you will need a new main harness running from the trunk to the rear seat area and engine.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[toxicavenger70]

Unfortunately it seems like you have a bunch of stuff that is wired incorrectly. That is the reason for the inconsistant starts. Personally if it was me I would fork out the cash and get a reputable shop to make it right.

Or look for a wiring diagram here on the forum and start learning to wire it up yourself.

Good luck.

[napgonz]

Hi all,

thank you for the feedback. I was able to connect to the local club which has monthly meetings. I will go that route and maybe look into going to the shop if no alternative. I wish i can find a tutor/teacher in the club as i'm really into getting good at working on bugs.

thanks again

[napgonz]

So I checked all the wiring and it looks like it only got burned from the coil to the distributor.

From the coil all looks good

[Rome]

The short wire from the base of the distributor points to the distributor housing/condenser connection is also burned. You need to replace the points with a new/used one that has its wire intact.

Your original burnt wire to the distributor is because it contacted the left preheat pipe from the intake manifold. That pipe is very hot because exhaust gas runs through it. On your engine you can see that the bottom flange of that preheat pipe is not bolted to the header. If the header does not have a fitting for the preheat, that pipe might not actually carry any hot gas.

The original factory fan shroud had thin metal clips on the rear face to hold the electrical wires and keep them from hanging down. The factory shroud also had 3 holes for spark plug holders so that the plug wires could be held off the manifold. The shroud on your engine is an aftermarket "36 hp" style which does not have those provisions.

When you fix/replace your distributor wire, I recommend attaching a stick-on black-colored wire holder to the fan shroud so that it guides your wire. Find a suitable area in the lower left quadrant of the shroud face. Clean the location with isopropyl alcohol, then apply the holder and press it onto the shroud hard so that it sticks well. The adhesive might not be rated for high heat, so buy a few and monitor it after a few hot drives. You can also fit another holder for the #4 spark plug wire, and another one on the other side of the shroud for the #2 plug wire.

Your engine is missing the small wide air tin pieces that fit below the cylinder cover tins. You should not be able to see the cooling fins of your heads. Then also close the two large holes in your rear breast plate, and fit an perimeter seal. You can buy the "H"-profile foam seals from a Bay window bus and push it into the gap between the engine and the compartment sides. Doing that keeps the hot exhaust air from being sucked into the engine compartment by the engine cooling fan, thereby reducing the cool ambient air which is needed to cool the engine.

[wdfifteen]

[VWNate]

Nice looking Bug .

I hope the local club folks can help you here, it's a simple fix .

FWIW, in 6 volt Bugs the wiring harness runs over the doors in side the roof header, driver's or passengers side depends on year made .
_________________
-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[pantone149]

Many of your answers are in the wiring diagram specific to the model year: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php

[ashman40]

[napgonz]

Hi all,

thank you. I gotta check all the options and advice you give on your posts.

will give you an update soon.

[Eric&Barb]

You should not be able to see below the engine tin down to the pavement when looking inside the engine compartment. Any holes in the engine tins or missing engine to body seals means you are sucking hot air that has already cooled the engine back inside the engine compartment, this in turn causes the engine to run hotter and reduce engine longevity. Personally would not drive that bug till all that is fixed.

Axle boots have been installed incorrectly and due to this will rip apart all too soon. The seam rib needs to be rotated to the 9 or 3 O'clock position.

In the image above.

Looks like some of the wires up near the starter are passing thru a hole in the front engine tin, but without a rubber grommet. The somewhat sharp edge of that hole will sooner or later cut thru the wiring insulation and cause another bigger wiring fire. Also the other hole in that are in the tin needs to be blocked up.

Plus the junk electrical terminals need to be removed and replaced with the stock type that are squeezed on so tight that oxygen can not get in between the terminal due to a gas tight seal. What you have now is a lame connection at each terminal that will corrode up all too soon between each connector and the ire it is on, causing voltage drops in your wiring. Which will result in dim lights, slow wipers, starting problems, and a horn that will not work when you have too many other electrical items turned on at same time. Below is a link to a thread about the proper connectors and factory style crimping tool. If you really can not afford about $50 in the tool and connectors, at least solder and heat shrink the connectors and wires so as to seal those conections.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338938

If the points happen to be closed and you leave the ignition switch in the "run" position, that coil to distributor wire can get so hot as to burn off the insulation. Plus ruin a perfectly good set of points/condenser.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[Cusser]

I have to agree with Eric and Barb's post.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[napgonz]

Hey guys,

thank you for all the tips. I will try to learn and do all this stuff by the guidance you're providing.

I've ordered a new coil, condenser and points. I will be getting them by tomorrow...will post pics soon.

[Eric&Barb]

If you would post images up under the engine, especially one showing up above the oil pump, can then see how it is under there.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!